Can and How do I use MS2
06-04-2007, 05:16 PM
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: Lt1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 auburn pro 9"
Can and How do I use MS2
I was on another forum and someone mentioned you can get a Mega Squirt II and piggy back it on your existing setup and use it to automaticly tune your fuel based on feed back from the wideband O2. Anyone have any experience with this? I have a 97lt1 converted to OBD1.
Last edited by Tricked-Out-Toy; 06-04-2007 at 05:20 PM.
06-05-2007, 08:25 AM
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Car: 84 Z28 H.O. w/Megasquirt II
Engine: semi-stock L69
Transmission: T-5 non W/C
Axle/Gears: 3.73 open
Re: Can and How do I use MS2
Yes, a couple members here have rides powered by the Megasquirt series of engine controllers. My camaro runs strickly off MS2.
Yes, piggy-back applications are quite common with the MS, cause you can control as little or as much as you want. And quickly revert to OEM in case of emergency or selling of vehicle.
As for specific questions about the products, you will need to go read the stuff at http://www.megasquirt.info.
I'll bet money the first 25 questions you have about Megasquirts are covered there.
And after reading the encyclopedia there, wander over to http://www.msefi.com for the forums.
It will be a pain, and quite a headache at times...but once going, it's well worth it.
Yes, piggy-back applications are quite common with the MS, cause you can control as little or as much as you want. And quickly revert to OEM in case of emergency or selling of vehicle.
As for specific questions about the products, you will need to go read the stuff at http://www.megasquirt.info.
I'll bet money the first 25 questions you have about Megasquirts are covered there.
And after reading the encyclopedia there, wander over to http://www.msefi.com for the forums.
It will be a pain, and quite a headache at times...but once going, it's well worth it.
Last edited by pizza_guy; 06-05-2007 at 11:07 AM.
06-05-2007, 02:20 PM
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Re: Can and How do I use MS2
hey pizza_guy was wondering in ur car do u have an hei 8 pin module??
if so can ya help me get mine wired up,been having trouble finding how to wire it ,and it was making me lean twards controling fuel only in my car
if so can ya help me get mine wired up,been having trouble finding how to wire it ,and it was making me lean twards controling fuel only in my car
06-06-2007, 12:31 AM
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Car: 1985 Berlinetta
Engine: Megasquirted TPI
Transmission: Transgo 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Can and How do I use MS2
Hey dave, I use the 8 pin module in my car..
No problems so far...
What did you want to know?
No problems so far...
What did you want to know?
06-06-2007, 11:00 AM
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Car: 84 Z28 H.O. w/Megasquirt II
Engine: semi-stock L69
Transmission: T-5 non W/C
Axle/Gears: 3.73 open
Re: Can and How do I use MS2
Got a 7-pin, but it's quite similar to the 8-pin. It's just missing the ground wire. I'm using a relay board as well, which can make a difference in how things get wired up. My references to stock are my 84 L69 camaro w/t-5 and a CCC.
I would like to start by saying: DO NOT USE THE $20 MODULES. I spent countless hours(and threads) trying to find an issue that that turned out to be my NEW $20 module. A nice borg-warner unit did wonders for me. I bet the GM modules are even better, but more expensive.
I would start by looking at -->this page<--. In the left-hand column, there is a link called "GM HEI". This will take you to the setup page for HEI's w/Megasquirt. I'll use their pin lettering to avoid confusion.
Pin R...this was a shielded cable on my stock harness. I only used the purple/white wire at the ecu-end of the harness, and I attached it to the tach input. The other wire in this "cable" was black/red, and my ohmeter said it was hooked to ground on the other end. Now that I think about it, I bet your ground wire from your module will be black/red.
Pin E...this was white on my stock harness. I have this hooked up to the spark advance. On my relay board it's port "S5"
Pin B...this is your only real grey area. It's a brown/black wire in the harness. If you've ever set your initial timing and disconnected the est wire, you know exactly what I'm talking about. I used the F-Idle relay(on relay board), and connected the circuit to "Vref" to supply 5V to this wire, but only while running. This last bit required a little software tweaking to turn on the relay properly. If your running without the relay board, then you could turn on your own relay with a source that's hot in run, but NOT in start. Not sure where to find this on a stock vehicle, as I never needed to find one. In a pinch, you could convert one of the MS's led's into the proper output. Make sure to use a transistor, though. And a protection diode. If your not sure about those, I'd either start reading up, or find another way.
The extra ground wire you have that I don't...I'd just run it to the MS's ground point on the motor. I think(dangorus term there) that running that wire seperatly all the way to the same ground point as the MS(known as "star grounding") will be the best place to minimize noise. But I'm not an elec. engineer either.
I just left the remaining pins as they were, as the stock harness already had that part handled. The page I linked to will spell those out pretty well.
Everything I just went over is pretty basic stuff, and if you scan through the page I linked above, about halfway down is the 8-pin specifics.
If your having trouble getting a good signal while running(as I was), then there are some tricks I used that I could share, but they require parts and more soldering.
Megasquirt Ignition forum<---There are two stickys in this forum that will help with intermittant tach signals. "8-pin hot start" and "Hall input mods(Poll)" are quite specific to your app. I'm assuming your using the "hall input" since asking about the module. The VR circuit is more sensitive to lower signal levels and usually works fine with no modification.
Just a side note on your fuel-only decision...I took the plunge and started with both spark and fuel from scratch. I wish I had started with fuel only at first, cause trying to learn all of this at once is a big hill to climb. And I'm doing this on a stock motor...no boost. Good news is after a couple months, I'm almost to the top. If you want to do spark later, you could setup everything properly, and just run a mechanical dizzy until your ready. Then it'll be just a quick swap.
I would like to start by saying: DO NOT USE THE $20 MODULES. I spent countless hours(and threads) trying to find an issue that that turned out to be my NEW $20 module. A nice borg-warner unit did wonders for me. I bet the GM modules are even better, but more expensive.
I would start by looking at -->this page<--. In the left-hand column, there is a link called "GM HEI". This will take you to the setup page for HEI's w/Megasquirt. I'll use their pin lettering to avoid confusion.
Pin R...this was a shielded cable on my stock harness. I only used the purple/white wire at the ecu-end of the harness, and I attached it to the tach input. The other wire in this "cable" was black/red, and my ohmeter said it was hooked to ground on the other end. Now that I think about it, I bet your ground wire from your module will be black/red.
Pin E...this was white on my stock harness. I have this hooked up to the spark advance. On my relay board it's port "S5"
Pin B...this is your only real grey area. It's a brown/black wire in the harness. If you've ever set your initial timing and disconnected the est wire, you know exactly what I'm talking about. I used the F-Idle relay(on relay board), and connected the circuit to "Vref" to supply 5V to this wire, but only while running. This last bit required a little software tweaking to turn on the relay properly. If your running without the relay board, then you could turn on your own relay with a source that's hot in run, but NOT in start. Not sure where to find this on a stock vehicle, as I never needed to find one. In a pinch, you could convert one of the MS's led's into the proper output. Make sure to use a transistor, though. And a protection diode. If your not sure about those, I'd either start reading up, or find another way.
The extra ground wire you have that I don't...I'd just run it to the MS's ground point on the motor. I think(dangorus term there) that running that wire seperatly all the way to the same ground point as the MS(known as "star grounding") will be the best place to minimize noise. But I'm not an elec. engineer either.
I just left the remaining pins as they were, as the stock harness already had that part handled. The page I linked to will spell those out pretty well.
Everything I just went over is pretty basic stuff, and if you scan through the page I linked above, about halfway down is the 8-pin specifics.
If your having trouble getting a good signal while running(as I was), then there are some tricks I used that I could share, but they require parts and more soldering.
Megasquirt Ignition forum<---There are two stickys in this forum that will help with intermittant tach signals. "8-pin hot start" and "Hall input mods(Poll)" are quite specific to your app. I'm assuming your using the "hall input" since asking about the module. The VR circuit is more sensitive to lower signal levels and usually works fine with no modification.
Just a side note on your fuel-only decision...I took the plunge and started with both spark and fuel from scratch. I wish I had started with fuel only at first, cause trying to learn all of this at once is a big hill to climb. And I'm doing this on a stock motor...no boost. Good news is after a couple months, I'm almost to the top. If you want to do spark later, you could setup everything properly, and just run a mechanical dizzy until your ready. Then it'll be just a quick swap.
Last edited by pizza_guy; 06-06-2007 at 12:08 PM.
06-06-2007, 06:03 PM
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Re: Can and How do I use MS2
thnx pizza guy yeah doing spark/fuel at once was a big concern for me,specially with the stock spark tables being pretty boost friendly on the v6 motor to begin with. i think i will deff go for fuel only for now
toehead
i wasnt able to find a wiring diagram for the 8 pin is all
toehead
i wasnt able to find a wiring diagram for the 8 pin is all
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