87TPImonster

Hello all! I have been doing quite a bit of research about how to drop the operating temp of my Camaro.

1987, 350 TPI with 2 fans, factory AC but it has been removed.

After doing this research I am more confused than when I started. Some threads say with 2 fans you need to reflash the ECM to a lower operating temp for one fan AND change the fan switch on between cylinders 6 & 8 for the other. Others seem to infer that just changing the fan switch will do the trick.

Which is correct? I want fans to kick on in the sub 200s possibly lower.

I also found this article and was wondering if it would be a better solution? I just don't want to add a manual switch that I have to hit to turn them on.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...tal-fan-2.html

Thanks in advance!

Ron U.S.M.C.

I would use a 180* thermostat with this = http://www.summitracing.com/parts/je...FUhcfgod_JIL4A
Now that fan will become your primary. The ECM controlled fan will now be your secondary fan coming on at 222* as back up.


If your going to use the "stock style" switch then this one is as close to the on and off temperatures that the 180* thermostat will work well with and keep the car in the IMHO best temperature range.

If your cooling system is in good shape that set up could keep the car in between the 195* to 185* area.

If your stuck in traffic and the temps rise than the 222* back up fan will kick in.

Preferably the 222* fan should come on at 180* with a new tune for the ECM, and then the "new" switch in the head would be backup.

The nice thing is that you will already have the "new" switch in the head when or if you decide to have the ECM controlled switch retuned to come on at 180*

I have a totally custom cooling set-up using temperature controlled, adjustable fan switches on there own separate independent circuits.
My primary fan is a 14 inch, set to come on at 180* with a 180* thermostat.
My secondary is set at 200*.

Honestly the secondary is very rarely used.

The way I just described the installation using the "new" switch in the head with the 180* thermostat is the easiest and least expensive way to get what you want.

I hope some of that helps.

naf

iTrader: (7)

in your part of the country, if you drive your car during lower outside temps, I suspect you'll discover some driveability issues with the lower temperature t-stat.

either way you always want to ensure that your motor oil temps get above the boiling point of water on a regular basis. this allows moisture present within the crankcase (which is a natural condition of the motor cycle) to boil out. water that stays trapped within the oil creates acids which break down the oil, cause sludge and unleash little gremlins that do all sorts of wicked damage.

87TPImonster

Thanks for the reply(s). I will start out by changing the switch to a new one. Then maybe I can get someone to burn me a new PROM. I am going to look into learning to tune myself.

I do not drive the car in the winter at all so I am not too concerned about low temp operation. In fact I put it away this year in October due to lack of time. But in the summer I would hang out right around the red (or into it) on my gauge. I had the switch that sends temp to the gauge replaced as well as a new radiator 2 years back so I presume my temp is fairly accurate (will check with a laser thermo this spring)

On a side note, if my car is stock except exhaust would it be advised to have someone tune my car in person to change the ECM temp or could I possibly find someone on here?

naf

iTrader: (7)

There is really no need to change the ECM parameters for fan operation. As Ron said, you can simply install a lower temp fan switch in the head and use that one as the primary fan.

Your temp guage is NOT an accurate depiction of the state of nature at the sender. None of them are. If you are concerned about the temperature it depicts, verify that temperature some other way. Then use the little wavy thing as an indication that something is DIFFERENT about how it usually runs.

If your car is actually overheating (and the fans are running) lowering the fan turn on temperature will NOT change that.

If your radiator is not boiling over it is NOT overheating.

Chances are that your car is operating correctly and as intended by the designers and there is really no reason for concern.

87TPImonster

Okay thanks for that tid-bit. I will look into this more once I get the car out and it warms up. I only got it last year and it would freak me out when I went cruising and saw the temp climbing, especially during the Back to the Bricks and Woodward cruises up here when I couldn't really turn off and get good air flow

Thanks again all!

naf

iTrader: (7)

oh and your car is SUPER old according to your profile...

87TPImonster

Lol I do that like 90% of the time when i try to type 1987 on the keypad. Ill make sure to fix that!