watajob

iTrader: (29)

Yep. Any Ace, Home Depot, etc. will do. Don't use teflon tape as this sometimes yields a poor ground. I used "sensor safe" stuff in a big Chapstick like tube. Can't remember the brand right now but no leaks and all my gauges and what not work fine.

89Kicker_IROC-Z

Did you run the 90* elbow into 2 hex style nut adapters and go from there? Most 90* adapters I see are hex-less with the elbow just having threads on it.

I dig the idea of running them downward vs right into the headers. I will definitely be trying it.

Fuzzman17

Just a thought, as I remember the thermostat is supposed to have a small hole in it to circulate coolant constantly for the purpose of preventing steam pockets from forming in the heads. Also your temp readings will be more accurate if you shield it from picking up heat from the headers.

89Kicker_IROC-Z

I bought a new thermostat along with a new fan switch, I have shielding from when I bought a set of headers from SLP. I am going to metal zip tie a section over each side (one over the fan switch, one over the autometer sending unit).

I want to run both sending units downwards just like watajob did but I am curious how he installed his fittings. (didnt get a response from my previous post quoting him)

Wondering how the 90* NPT fittings were installed...and if they threaded easily or had to be cranked into each other, etc. I do not want to snap anything. The replacement sender I snapped was $30 alone and Autometer's response was basically "tough"

89Kicker_IROC-Z

New fittings rigged up how I am going to run the sending units downwards vs sticking out the heads.



And with the heat shield stuff I'm going to use so the sending units don't fry out on my anymore

L.A.KR-1

hey hour fans workin good or not.... they turning late..or what ? ..

89Kicker_IROC-Z

Decided to take vetteoz and maddens advice from another thread.







I wired the coolant gauge into my manifold. Unfortunately the manifold is tapped for 1/2" and my sending unit is 1/8" so I had to use a reducer. Thats the only way to get it to mount in that position. The reducer pretty much covers the entire prong of the sending unit, so some coolant is touching but not a direct flow. Does that matter at all? Questionable.

For the time being I left my fan switch in the stock head position just to see how the gauge would read. 176* on I believe is the setting on it.

After idling for 5 minutes, one of the fans kicked on. According to my gauge this was around 140* which would mean premature, but if the coolant in the head was hotter than the manifold (or the probe is not getting a correct reading), then this is why its happening.

After 15 minutes of idling the gauge slowly creeped to 180-185ish and hung around there with only the one fan spinning. I could put my new fan switch into the manifold with a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer as well, but that just means it would take even longer for the fans to come on...

Now is it really at 180? that is the question.
IDK, anyone have any advice? 30* is a lot to be off by..