Overheating/Running hot Coolant in car
#1
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Car: Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z,96 Vette
Engine: 350 5.7 Liter
Transmission: 700r
Overheating/Running hot Coolant in car
I just puta 383 in my car and I started driving it around and noticed the car temp gets high fast. It doesnt take long for it to go from cool to 220. The gauge on the other hand shoot straight up and down when I start the car and I have to tap the arm for it to go down to cool (100). I was wondering if a sensor is bad, gauge is messed up, thermostat even though its newish or other things. The car pissed coolant into the car so I replaced heater core but it still does it when it gets hot and only when car is stopped. Can anyone help?
#3
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.42 Posi
Re: Overheating/Running hot Coolant in car
If you just recently filled it with coolant mine has done something similar because I did not get all the air out of the coolant system. Try to get all the air out if you havent.
#4
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Gage Rage
The best way to fix the gage is to reposition the needle stop at a square angle thereby preventing the needle lodging.
However if you believe you might cause damage in the attempt, you can modify, and improve the test circuit.
You can disconnect the self-test leg of the wiring at the ignition switch connector.
It will be two dark green wires.
You’ll know you disconnected the correct wires when the needle does not move when you start the engine.
Connect the two dark green wires to each other.
To get back the self-test feature connect a 55Ω resistor, or closest value you can find, from ground thru a S.P.S.T. switch.
Use at least a 2 watt resistor.
Have the other end of the switch go to the splice in the two dark green wires.
Now when you want to make sure the meter is working properly just hit the switch.
The meter should go to 260°, and not peg.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Here’s how to test the sender:
With the car OFF, and the wire disconnected from the sender, connect an ohmmeter from ground to the sender.
When the engine is cold the ohmmeter should read about 1400 Ω.
Now you can start the engine.
As the engine wars up the ohmmeter reading will decrease.
At 260° the ohmmeter will decrease to about 55 Ω.
It won’t be necessary to let it get that hot, the above info is for reference.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Obviously you changed things with the swap.
Make sure the inside of the radiator is clean.
A well maintained coolant system’s 20 year old radiator
can look as clean as the day it was installed.
Make sure the engine timing isn’t too early or late.
Don’t run lean.
Make sure you maintained a good radiator shrouding with the swap.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
8 Wheels Corner Better Than 4, If You’re On The Outside You Have Fair Warning
.
However if you believe you might cause damage in the attempt, you can modify, and improve the test circuit.
You can disconnect the self-test leg of the wiring at the ignition switch connector.
It will be two dark green wires.
You’ll know you disconnected the correct wires when the needle does not move when you start the engine.
Connect the two dark green wires to each other.
To get back the self-test feature connect a 55Ω resistor, or closest value you can find, from ground thru a S.P.S.T. switch.
Use at least a 2 watt resistor.
Have the other end of the switch go to the splice in the two dark green wires.
Now when you want to make sure the meter is working properly just hit the switch.
The meter should go to 260°, and not peg.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Here’s how to test the sender:
With the car OFF, and the wire disconnected from the sender, connect an ohmmeter from ground to the sender.
When the engine is cold the ohmmeter should read about 1400 Ω.
Now you can start the engine.
As the engine wars up the ohmmeter reading will decrease.
At 260° the ohmmeter will decrease to about 55 Ω.
It won’t be necessary to let it get that hot, the above info is for reference.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Obviously you changed things with the swap.
Make sure the inside of the radiator is clean.
A well maintained coolant system’s 20 year old radiator
can look as clean as the day it was installed.
Make sure the engine timing isn’t too early or late.
Don’t run lean.
Make sure you maintained a good radiator shrouding with the swap.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
8 Wheels Corner Better Than 4, If You’re On The Outside You Have Fair Warning
.
#5
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: Auto
Re: Overheating/Running hot Coolant in car
i got a problem its kinda big i just replaced the ac system in my 88 camaro and now when it runs with the ac on it starts to overheat it gets above 220 but as soon as i shut off the ac it starts to cool down to about 160 200. whats the normal temp it should stay at and what might be causing it?
#6
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Car: Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z,96 Vette
Engine: 350 5.7 Liter
Transmission: 700r
Re: Overheating/Running hot Coolant in car
Hey Guys I found out the fans were not working so I grounded it to be on all the time for the time being.
Thanks
Thanks
#7
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Car: Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z,96 Vette
Engine: 350 5.7 Liter
Transmission: 700r
Re: Overheating/Running hot Coolant in car
i got a problem its kinda big i just replaced the ac system in my 88 camaro and now when it runs with the ac on it starts to overheat it gets above 220 but as soon as i shut off the ac it starts to cool down to about 160 200. whats the normal temp it should stay at and what might be causing it?
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#8
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Location: San Antonio TX
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: Auto
Re: Overheating/Running hot Coolant in car
how do i tell? i mean when it comes to ac stuff im not a huge pro...
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