83T/A

Ok,I have searched these threads and still have not found an answer to my problem.I know there are some A/C experts on here.My system was converted to 134A before I bought the car.It was done by an A/C shop I assume(saw their sticker on the car).After installing new motor,I charged the system.New dryer and o-rings also.It was cool but not cool enough.Took the car to a shop(owner is a very nice guy and does not seem to be in the business of ripping people off).He pulled the 134 out and put Freezed 12 in.Said it should help some.Still was not very cool and he suggested putting two electric fans in front of the condensor.After making some covers for the T-tops,I can stand to ride in the car.When at hwy speeds,it might get down to 55 degrees,but if you stop it does not cool hardly at all.Sometimes compressor is engaged,sometimes not.I don't know what else to do.I am on a limited budget right now(wife just got out of college),but would still like to drive the car.Any thoughts or ideas?If I missed a thread like this somewhere please let me know or point me in the right direction.Thanks

stahrman0612

I was in the exact same situation. My AC seemed to work just fine giving it gas, but everytime I came to a stop or left the car idle in park it would blow warm air. The clutch for the compressor kept sticking, even started SMOKING!!! I noticed that my voltmeter was always reading very low in idle. So here goes the very, VERY cheap fix that I did. My car has the 305 4 bbl, so I turned up my idle speed (from 500 to 800) just enough to give the AC compressor enough juice that it needed to keep from shutting off. It's been 2 weeks now and the AC blows ice cold R-12 all day long. Hope this works for you.

83T/A

Yea,I tried that too.It didn't work of course.I wish it were that simple.This afternoon I tried running some water over the condensor to see if that would help.Nothing.The compressor is engaged at idle but no cold air is coming out.The coldest I could get it today was 55 degrees.This was before the car warmed up and sitting in the shade.At idle speed it climbed to 67-70 degrees.It has to be something simple(or maybe not)!

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

This isn't the news you're going to want to hear.

Freeze 12 is 80% R-134a and 20% R-142b......R-142b is a warmer refrigerant than R-134a is. So if the car blows hot with R-134a, it will blow even warmer with Freeze 12.

If your car has PAG oil in it (which it probably does after the R-134a conversion), the R-142b in Freeze 12 will ruin the PAG oil in about a month. (Anything that is an HCFC should not be run in PAG oil)......Freeze 12 is marketed as being an R-12 substitute (using mineral oil from the old R-12 setup or recommended by Freeze 12 to change to POE oil. The trouble is that mineral oil isn't compatible with R-134a, which is 80% of the mixture) To give an easier to read view of this, it's like this:

R-12 = mineral oil
R-134a = PAG or POE (usually PAG is used)
Freeze 12 = mineral or POE (POE is the better plan here). 99% of people who switch from R-12 to Freeze 12 don't change the oil. Since it's supposed to be an easy conversion.

You don't need any fans in front of the condenser. My car has an 11x12" transmission cooler in front of the condenser and it cools the car quite nicely in South Texas. Where are you located? 55° in Phoenix when it's 115° outside is good. 55° in Seattle when it's 75° outside is terrible.

Is the compressor cycling on and off at a rapid pace? Like every few seconds? If so, then it's undercharged. 55° would be the result as it wouldn't run for long enough to get cold.

When you put the motor in and replaced the A/C parts, did you pull a vacuum on the A/C before putting the R-134a in? If not, that would be your problem.

Are your radiator fan(s) turning on when the A/C is on?

83T/A

Well,I live in central Alabama which is probably about the same temps as what you have in Houston.The compressor seems to be acting normal.Sometimes it will cycle off at idle but it stays on longer than it is off.But it blows very liitle cool air at idle.When I initially charged the system I did pull a vaccum on it and so did the guy who put in the freeze 12.What should I put in the system and what is the proper procedure for putting it in(new oil and such)?

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

If it's cycling off at idle in this weather, it's undercharged. System will run warmer at idle (stop lights and such) due to low or zero air flow over the condenser. Once you're moving again, it should cool better.

You have a few options. Could simply top up with R-134a to get the pressure up a bit. Hard to say exactly how much though.

Could go for an Envirosafe ES12a kit (propane/isobutane) and use that instead of Freeze 12. It's going to cool a heck of a lot better than Freeze 12 or R-134a would dream of. (See Fast355's posts and videos). This will be compatible with the oil already in the system, which makes things a heck of a lot easier to deal with.

Could go for a Cool Top kit. Same principle as the ES12a kit mentioned above (evacuate, vacuum, recharge, leave the oil in there). This is a blend that is R-134a based. Probably won't cool down as fast as a propane based system. But the sustained cool temps once it's cooled down will be colder than R-134a. You'd need an EPA 609 license to buy this stuff. None needed with the ES12a kit above.

Regardless, either of these will kick Freeze 12 to the curb.

83T/A

Hey,I appreciate the help.I think I will go with the envirosafe kit.I am assuming you can get some from their website?I sure hope it works.It's no fun riding in a car that is almost cooler with the windows rolled down.I'm thinking a good tint job would probably help too.I will let you know how it works.

built91Z28

If you put anything in the AC that is not R-134A, and have the AC worked on at a shop, make sure you let them know. I for one would never put a propane based refrigerant in my car. Propane is a fuel.