2bfeard

I recently installed an electric proform water pump along with AFR 190cc and the XFI280 cam waiting to get tuned. Car used to run about 160-180F on summer with stock heads/cam, now with this set up its going up to 220-230F.
What am trying to figure out is if the temp went higher because of the new heads/cam or the electric pump.
I have a new rad, 50/50 coolant, new 180* stat, no leaks, good airdam, single electric fan, I even installed an extra fan in front of rad and it helps somewhat but not enough,water pump is wired with a 30amp relay, no shorts.
Another thing I noticed when it gets to 220sh, I pulled over and carefully remove the rad cap but it has no pressure, am not sure if thats the way the pump works or something else?
I was thinking maybe I did something wrong or is it supposed to run that hot? Id really would like it to be around 160-180sh like before. If its the water pump causing this problem I might as well install a mec high flow water pump for my peace of mind.
Anybody has had any of this problems with a new electric water pump??

built91Z28

After driving the car there should be pressure. I would check the oil and make sure there is no coolant in it. It is possible for the intake manifold to leak into the lifter valley. Also check the radiator cap to make sure its good. If in doubt, replace it. Its cheap.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

if you are not building pressure int eh system, something is wrong.

is the pump wired correctly and turning the right direction?

2bfeard

Just checked oil and its a little low but it looks cleanYes sir, pump is wired correctly. the blue is positive, it even has the inline fuse from factory, so pump should be turning in the right direction.
I would have to get a radiator pressure tester and see if it has any internal leaks.
One more thing, last night went for a drive. It was cooler than in the day and car was actually running below 200* I guess its only good for night hunting but it kinda sucks!! I want to be able to drive it any time of the day with out having to glance at my temp gauge every 5 seconds..geezz

KNBlazer

check your timing following GM setup procedure...

2bfeard

Base timing is set at 10* with ETC wire disconnected, I might drop it to 8* see what it does.

KNBlazer

10 degrees? double check your specs for your vehicle... I could have sworn that 0 degrees was for the LG4 .. 6 degrees for 305/350 and 10 for the v6

2bfeard

stock is 6* on the 350's but since i have the aftermarket heads/cam 10* was were it felt happier, at 8* it would backfire a bit when hitting the throttle. so 10* is just for now til it gets tuned!
thanks for the replies any other ideas!!

built91Z28

You may want to try a lot more timing than that. My motor has a similar sized cam I think (236 @.050, .550 lift, 110 LSA) with Canfield 195cc heads. I run 18 degrees base timing. When I had it at 10 degrees, my headers were glowing within 10 minutes of having the car on. The combustion process was continuing in the exhaust system due to not enough timing.

RED86Z28

If you cant get things to cool down a bit with timing adjustments and maybe a some fuel adjustments its probably the pump.

KNBlazer

whoops... didn't factor that in... your cam didn't come with recommended timing?

RED86Z28

none of mine have ever come with a timing recommendation.

norcalz28

iTrader: (13)

I'm having a very similar issue after putting in my new motor. The temps will continue to climb even at idle. Smogged the car the other day and it got VERY hot during the tests, we had a large shop fan and small one too trying to keep it cool. I have a becool 4 core rad, but I believe the stock fans are a weak point of the new setup. I've order a set of dual shrouded becool fans and when they arrive I will post any results. I just don't think the stock fans can pull enough air through the radiator to keep temps down when it's not moving at freeway speeds. I have a new delco pump and 50/50 mix as well. May consider running a 25% coolant/75% water mixture since we don't worry about low temps here in California, and see if that helps.

BTW my base timing is set at 6' base and the car runs well, passed california emissions with flying colors, so more timing isn't always a cure-all, you could have something else going on. I would definitely pressure check the system, mine builds pressure right away.

Will

2bfeard

Wow 18* base timing!! never gone that far in my car..but you might have a point because my brand new header gaskets didn't last long before they got literally roasted!! now i have that exhaust leak i need to take care of.

2bfeard

OK, went and rented out a rad press tester. First, I tested my cooling system and thankfully it was holding pressure just fine. Second, I tested my one month old rad cap and the damn thing wouldn't hold pressure IDK it might have been defective or some, and its the ones with the lever. So i put a cap out of my old truck, tested it and it passed.
I turned on car with pump off, let it get warm around 160sh then turned on pump and temp gauge went down in a hurry!! I will go drive around later on and I hope that's what my problem was. Can't never overlook the small stuff...right? built91Z28

built91Z28

Glad it was something cheap and easy. 9 out of 10 times its the little things.

2bfeard

Wanted to do a little update:
I installed a dual fan set up out of a newer third gen and it lowered the temp considerably. In hot days it stays at 160-180 and it colder days I have to turn off pump so it can reach normal operating temp since I have fans running as soon as car starts, so I definitely recommend this upgrade for single fan f-bodies, specially with high perfomance engines.
Now I need a higher amp alternator!! am running low volts with all this damn accesories...