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Bypassing the 2nd radiator fan

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Old 10-12-2009 | 07:54 PM
  #1  
zuma's Avatar
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From: SF Bay Area
Car: 1969 SS Camaro, or 1990 Iroc vert,
Engine: 350 and 305
Transmission: tb350 and 700r4
Bypassing the 2nd radiator fan

My 90 IROC (305) cooling fans seem to be working ok. The 1st fan (Drivers side) comes on at about 230 or so degrees. The second one has not come on that I know of...(I haven't run the AC) I keep this car up at the mountain home and there is a road that is extremely steep, The signs say to turn off your AC at the bottom of the hill, and it also has turnout areas with 1 gallon jugs of water for overheating. I first went up this grade with the camaro and the temp went up from 190 to 230 before the fan kicked on and started to cool down, (I assume)...This is when the outside temp was only about 60 degrees...I started the car the next morning and watched the temp climb after 5 min or so and then at around 230 degrees the first one started so I think it is working correctly. My question is that if I add a summit stand alone adjustible stat on the second fan and set it for say 195 will it keep my AC from working? In the summer months it gets to about 110 degreess outside so I need to have a cooling fan start sooner then the factory settings... I looked at the wiring diagram and it dosen't seem to have an interlock with the compressor, so If I cut the wires going to the fan an install the kit; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-30104/ will this work ok? Will the compressor keep running? I don't see why it wouldn't. The second fan will then come on at 195 and keep running until it cools down or I shut the car off...What do you guys think? thanks Mike
Old 10-12-2009 | 08:34 PM
  #2  
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From: So.west IN
Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
Re: Bypassing the 2nd radiator fan

Stock secondary fan turns on at 238° via the fan switch in the passenger head.
Replace it with AC Delco D1855B (or equivalent) fan switch. 215°F turn on. 5° cooler then the ECM switched primary. No splicing or, putting those horrid scoth locks on the wiring.

Any further details can be found using seach or, looking through a few recent pages, as cooling fan ?'s are frequently asked.
Old 10-12-2009 | 09:37 PM
  #3  
Reid Fleming's Avatar
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From: Houston, TX
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: SuperRam 350
Transmission: Pro Built S/S TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Bypassing the 2nd radiator fan

I agree with Deadbird. A simple fan switch will do the trick. And it prevents splicing, hacking, etc. It will have no effect on your A/C.

I run a 200/185° fan switch. Seems to work great for summer heat waves as well as cooler winter days.

How fast are you driving up those mountain hills? Keep in mind that anything over 40 mph and the fans will shut off automatically. At that point you're relaying on your radiator and air dam.
Old 03-26-2016 | 08:46 AM
  #4  
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Re: Bypassing the 2nd radiator fan

Originally Posted by deadbird
Stock secondary fan turns on at 238° via the fan switch in the passenger head.
Replace it with AC Delco D1855B (or equivalent) fan switch. 215°F turn on. 5° cooler then the ECM switched primary. No splicing or, putting those horrid scoth locks on the wiring.

Any further details can be found using seach or, looking through a few recent pages, as cooling fan ?'s are frequently asked.
THIS>>>Is not right. Bought this and fans kick in at 230 not the purported 215. Don't waste your money
Old 03-26-2016 | 04:51 PM
  #5  
JohnFB's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 120
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From: Somers, NY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0L TPI LB9
Transmission: 5-speed manual (T5)
Axle/Gears: 3.45 POSI
Re: Bypassing the 2nd radiator fan

Maybe I was lucky, but I had good results with the D1855B fan switch that I put in last year. After traveling through some traffic, I popped the hood, and looked at the fans. The secondary fan (controlled by the fan switch) was on, while the ECM-switched primary was off, indicating that the secondary switch was now turning on earlier than the primary (exactly what I wanted).


Note: I also put in a 180F thermostat (Stant 45358) to make sure that the engine would be cool enough at highway speeds so that neither fan would be on.
Old 03-26-2016 | 06:37 PM
  #6  
deadbird's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: So.west IN
Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
Re: Bypassing the 2nd radiator fan

Originally Posted by tchome1956
THIS>>>Is not right. Bought this and fans kick in at 230 not the purported 215. Don't waste your money
My apologies for my post 7 years ago.
When I researched to reply to the OP, I used information I found on a 'vette forum. The post still exists to this day...

The AC Delco part # D1855B witch crosses to a GM part #14043275 can be ordered thru any Chevy dealer. It is a low Temp grounding switch turning the fan on at ~ 215* F and off at 200* F

Not to be confused with the OEM switch AC Delco part# D1852B witch crosses to a GM part #14043276. This is the OEM Temp grounding switch that turns the fan on ~ 238* F
That is quoted from this page... http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...ary-fan-3.html

I never bought and tested one, personally, to validate the information I relayed originally. I do try to be reasonably accurate when I attempt to help.

Last edited by deadbird; 03-26-2016 at 06:42 PM.
Old 03-26-2016 | 08:01 PM
  #7  
JohnFB's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 120
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From: Somers, NY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0L TPI LB9
Transmission: 5-speed manual (T5)
Axle/Gears: 3.45 POSI
Re: Bypassing the 2nd radiator fan

Deadbird,


I'm not sure your advice was too bad. I installed the D1855B fan switch
last year, and it seemed to work for me. I don't have the equipment to say that it turns on exactly at 215F (I doubt the dashboard gauge is that accurate), but it does turn on earlier than the ECM-controlled fan, so it does result in the engine running cooler than before. I also read a Corvette forum discussion prior to installing the fan switch, specifically this one:

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...an-switch.html

I thought that link was useful because it confirmed that a 180F thermostat would ensure that the fans don't run when the car is moving at speed. (It provides a good explanation why setting the thermostat temperature just slightly below the fan switch temperature may not be adequate due to different temperatures in different spots.)


I don't know the temperature tolerances of the components involved here. Is it possible that is why tchome1956 did not have good luck while I did?
(In other words, maybe my fan switch turns on at a slightly lower temperature due to manufacturing tolerances?)
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