AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

Hi all,

I have an issue with the IROC's cooling system. Before i explain the problem, i will outline the cooling system related stuff on the car.

-stock radiator (although it seems to have come off another car as "1990 Camaro is written in old chalk on one of the tanks).
-stock water pump, inspected when i rebuilt the motor 6months ago. seemed to spin good. little rust.
-hot tanked engine block. little rust.
- Trans cooler in pass (my driver side) side tank w/aux cooler mounted under bumper.
- no a/c gear at all including gone condenser.
- fresh fluid at approx 50/50 water/coolant mix.
- 160 degree thermostat (checked on the stove, it works ok), undrilled.
- hoses are new.
- no iroc driving lights or air ducting (gutted below air cleaner plastic stuff).
- adjustable fan switch. Both fans come on about 100deg F approx.
- unsure of ignition timing, cant remember.
- usually run the 98 octane good fuel.
- torque converter lockup is working great w/2.77 gears, low cruise rpm.
- replaced temp guage sensor with new one mounted in heater hose manifold outlet (no heater).
- stock pulleys
-new O2 sensor.
- Moroso plastic coolant recovery can, which i run almost full.

Phew, Ok, no matter what i do, i cant keep the temp down. Once it warms up (a few minutes driving), it stays around 195-200deg F. I know this is ok, for the average engine, but mine is stock and with all the things that can labour the system gone, why won't the temp come down?

I'm thinking the old radiator may be clogged a bit, even though it seems to be in good condition.

Any ideas/advice welcome!


Chris

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

What is the temperature and humidity where you are right now?

Burnout91

The ambient temperature has a large effect on the temp range my '91 Z28 L98 runs in. In the summer, as soon as the air temp gets to 85*+, the dash guage indicates 190*-220* in traffic, and it has the stock cooling system (except for a 180* secondary fan switch) with (only) 58K miles on it. So, your operating temperature might not be out of the ordinary, if it is currently summer-time 'down under'.
P.S.: It must be nice to have 98 octane fuel available. Is that 'pump' gas?
Bill

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

Aussiroc, is your car running hot in traffic or at speeds over 30? If it runs hot in traffic, look at your fan switch, you may have the stock one that comes on at 222+. You can get one that comes on sooner, at a lower temp. If the car is running hot at speed(over 30), you may be missing all or part of your air dam. Check it out. Both parts are easy to get and fairly cheap. You can also get a bottle of water wetter and change your anti-freeze ratio to 30% anti-freeze and 70% distilled water with the 1 bottle of water wetter.
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Sorry about the double post. Aussiroc, you can also remove the radiator and have it boiled out and pressure checked at a radiator shop to make sure it flows ok and it not partially plugged. That should be the cheapest thing to do to make sure it is good.

AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

Ok, as it is very early spring down here, it is still pretty cool ambient temp wise. I spoke to a good-rep radiator guy today, explained the situation, and he believes that it is almost certain the 18-odd year rad in the car is partially clogged. Apparantly cross-flow rads clog easier than old-skool down flow ones. He sees it all the time. The fans kick in super early, etc and the cooling system is in pretty good shape. The temp stays constant whether in traffic or on the freeway, that cab be a bit of a tip-off for a clogged rad as well.

So i'm going to do some research, ask around and get an all-alloy replacement and a couple of better fans. I wanna bigger capacity rad for the future as a safety buffer when i beef the engine.

I wont bother asking about better, bigger rads, i'll just do some searches and stuff. Unless someone has a specific recommendation?

Cheers guys

AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

Yeah we can get 98 octane unleaded at nearly every pump (unless you're in the outback of course). Its pretty good stuff. At the moment it sells for about $1.30AUD (approx $1.00USD) per litre (1000 metric mls).

What detonation!?!

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

Aussiroc, Summit Racing has a direct fit aluminum radiator(Summit brand) made by Northern that a lot of people on this site use and the price is right, not too expensive ,good quality and works well.

AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, i'm chasing that one up. Looks good hey. Cause the shipping will be close to $200USD, i might consider getting one off an aussie car to fit, or get a nice one made...

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

I did not think about the shipping costs. Is there anywhere local for you to get parts? I would guess that most everything there costs more than it does here? The last time I had a radiator "rod out" it cost as much as a new one so I have since gone with new but with your shipping cost it might be something to look into. You might try doing a search on this site to see if a 4th gen radiator will fit without much trouble, at least it would be newer and maybe in better condition.

Bigseth

iTrader: (11)

195-200 is normal operating temp. Why do you want it to run cooler? A engine runs the best at these temps. As long as its doesnt run over 220 or so it will be fine. Both of my F bodys run 185-195 during everyday driving and about 210 in heavy traffic during the summer.
Just my .02

Seth