Batass

I just put a bunch of new parts on my 305, took it out and it rises to 260 and stops. At idle it runs about 200.

Performer rpm intake
New rhs iron heads
lt1 cam
roller rockers
headers
vortech supercharger

The temperature rises as soon as I start cruising, which is lean (16:1+). Im still using the stock radiator and water pump. Didnt figure I'd need to upgrade because the temp stayed good running in the gargage. The inlet side of the radiator is hot, while the outlet is barely warm. Could this mean a clogged radiator?
I'm also using a single electric fan that I turn on at 160 with a milodon 160 thermostat.
I got a griffin aluminum radiator cheap that fits, but it doesnt have the tranny cooler on it. Any way to deal with that? (It's getting a tko600 soon).

Clogged radiator?
Lean cruise causing problems?
Or just insufficient pump and radiator?

Stealthy-One

start easy. Flush the radiator. just curious but do you have your air dam on it? since it warms up at cruise tends to lead to hte dam is missing, or broken. just sitting still startig it and letting it warm up without moving how does it do? Im guessing it hovers around 160 per your fan swtch and thermostat that you mentioned? How do you kick on the fan at 160? did you get a new aftermarket switch?

your headers and Charger might be increasing heat as well. allowing the car to breath easier and thus hotter, or your charger might be leaning it out like you think.

get on an open road stomp on the gas then cut the ignition off when you are about 3000rpm and moving killing the car. be careful your brakes and steering will be shitty with it off, then you can pull a plug out a couple plugs to read them to see if it is lean.

Batass

I have an air dam on it and its in great shape. I bought a thermal fan switch but the probe isnt working so I just manually turn it on when it hits about 160-190. It could be because I can touch my radiator and not burn myself at the inlet, which leads me to believe theres a clog in the system and the fluid isnt all making it to the radiator. If 260 degree fluid was making it there it should be hot as hell. I'll flush it tomorrow.

Stealthy-One

I bought this prestone stuff that you drain the coolant refill with water and this prestone rad fluch then drive about 300 miles. I wa curiouus how it worked so i drained the coolant and flushed with a hose untill it ran out clear. Then I added the rad flush stuf and drove for about 300-400 miles. whenI started the hose that time to flush it the water came out all sorts of gunky and rusty. looked like calcium deposits and all kinds of crap.

Just gotta be careful, Prestone makes two flush additives. the one I used where you drive for 300 miles and one you idle for 15 mins. I dont think you want to ut the 15 min one in and drive for a while.... Some also dont like aluminum. read carefully.... Good luck and let us know what happens!

JDSimpson

If you can take the radiator out. Then take it to a car wash and use the pressure cleaners there with tire and engine cleaner to clean it inside and out.

Batass

Ok, i think I found the problem. I was about to flush my system, when I started the car and opened the radiator cap, the radiator was almost sucked dry! When I shut the motor off, it filled back up. Could there be a big air pocket???
Another thing, I have my heater hoses all fubar. I wrecked the vacuum controlled bypass valve when I removed the heads and intake and just plugged hoses together. The supply and returned are hooked together and still attached to the radiator, so there is nothing but air in the heater core. I'm having trouble finding a replacement valve.

Batass

Problem found, I have a small leak somewhere. The system wasn't building pressure. I carefully pulled the cap off and there wasnt any pressure. So I just removed the t-stat and now it runs 160*. I think i'll just leave it this way until I put the new motor in. I wonder how long it will take to warm up now......