jconrad

Somebody Should Make This A Stickie, For As Many Times As I See This Same Question....


Not sure where exactly to post this, or where it came from originally, but I have been doing some research into finding the perfect coolant fan switch.

Here's what I've come up with:

GP Sorenson:
FS6 - Closes at 204*-220* F- Retail $21.59

FS4 - Closes at 211*-227* F- Retail $8.69

FS1 - Closes at 222*-238* F- Retail $9.49 (Factory TBI)

FS3 - Closes at 240*-252* F- Who would buy this one?? (Factory TPI)

Can be purchased from Advance Auto Parts
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http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=3.138.944

185º-200º F-Retail +shipping $20.98 (best deal)
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http://www.rodneydickman.com/retail.html

Click "engine" tab and then look for: "Low Temp Radiator Fan Switch"

185º-195ºF-Retail +shipping $27.50

Of course with both of these last two, you should be running a 180º thermostat, or lower.

MdFormula350

nice info, should help some people save money verses the expensive ones.

jconrad

ty
I was going to post the hypertch stats and all...but after seeing the price differences, why?

BTW, cool @ss lookin ride you got there:hail:
What rims are they?

MdFormula350

the ronal firehawk replica's.
thanks.

souperman28

I looked at the web page and im not sure what to buy? Do i buy just the fan switch or do i buy the Fan Switch & Conversion Harness? witch is almost double the price?

And I have a question with my car it kind of relates to the subject, i have dual fans and i got rid of my a/c but now the passenger side fan is useless untill at high temp if im right. so i was wondering if i could just wire up a switch to the passanger side fan so i can turn it on whenever i please. or if i buy that fan switch will it turn that fan on? because when its a hot day my car gets the the red sometimes and i would like to just flip that fan on to help the other fan out.

Garrett

jconrad

You only need to purchase the fan switch, on both counts. The secondary (pass) fan is controlled by the thermostatic (fan) switch in the pass head, and/or the A/C.
For your hot temps, have you already installed the 180º thermostat? It has been established in another thread, that if/when you do change the stat, to make sure you purchase a good (brand name) one. The cheapos don't seem to want to open fully until a quite higher temp than 180º.
Sorry, I'm kind of getting off topic here, but I want to make sure that you have all the information that you need.
Now if you desire to wire than fan up manually, you have a few options.
You can just splice into the green(?) wire coming from the fan relay to the switch, and put it to ground. That will make the fan come on whenever the ignition is energized. That is the way mine is hooked up right now, but I will be installing a manual fan on/off switch before it gets too cold outside.
I have schematics and directions for wiring the relay to accept a fan on/off switch if you want it. (Compliments of Willie)

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

If you are going with the 180°F t-stat, I recommend you install a 180°F temp switch for your secondary fan. Because otherwise the primary fan is turned on when the ECM sees 200+F and the secondary fan turns on when you start overheating at 250+F. Not exactly useful for a 180°F setup.

Let me know if you're interested.
Lou

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

So i gotta 89 camaro far from stock but using stock fan. Just got done dropping engine back in (had to take care of some leaks/change clutch) and i ripped what was left of my a/c out. Now i already messed up the temperature controlled fan thing so i just always turned it on by moving the heater switch to on. Now that doesnt work either. So i got a single fan with 2 wires going to it. Which one is the power wire? Thanks guys.

Guessin red is power blk is ground.

souperman28

Yea BigBabyLou, im interested in putting in a 180^o fan switch. Please help me out if you can. Thanks in advance.

-Garrett

jconrad

Yeah Lou, where have you found a 180º fan switch?
The lowest ones I've heard of only go down to 185º.
Not sure if that is that much of a difference, but cooler is better all the way around

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

PM's sent.

tom3

Just bought the GP Sorenson FS6 to convert my high temp fan to a lower, earlier turn on. Tested the switch on the range with boiling water, no turn on at 210 degrees. Put some antifreeze in the water, tried it again. Right at 225 degrees the FS6 switch clicked on. Sure not worth the 24 bucks for this switch. No real help for our cars. Suppose I'll have to bite the bullet and get a low temp switch from one of the fan companies, ridiculous price and all. But at least now we know what this switch does.

tom3

Just ordered the switch from Mid America Designs. Supposed to turn on at 200. Will post results when here. About 21 bucks shipped.

jconrad

Have also installed the 185-200º switch. According to my factory gauge, it looks to be functioning properly.

Still waiting on your results, tom3...

tom3

Oops, forgot all about it. Put the 200 degree switch in the head, fans came on just about when the 180 deg, thermostat opened, they ran constantly. Apparently the temperature back at the head goes higher faster than at the front of the engine. Really didn't work. Finally wound up using a variable fan switch with a probe in the radiator. This works fine but it does turn on both fans. Odd that when they turn off, one fan goes off and the other one runs for five seconds or so. Not sure just how this high temp circuit works - but this setup does seem to work fine on my car. So, I'd recommend an adjustable switch so you'll get just what you're looking for.

jconrad

Thanks for helping us out with that. So many of these threads just seem to never get answered, that when someone does a search, they never really get a good answer to their questions.



Mine is actually in the thermostat housing for the time being, but I plan on moving it to the factory location as soon as I purchase a set of heads...(plug rounded off in pass head)

Don 79 TA

i have the hypertech fan switch, i saw right above the water pump looked like a sensor.
the instructions said it's on the head by the #2 plug

are there two sensors? or is it by the water pump?

it's a 88 5.7 tpi formula

jconrad

I think you are talking about the Coolant Temp Sensor for the ECM. It has 2 wires going to it. The thermal (fan) switch in the pass head has one wire going to it. There is also a third switch, (a sender really) in the driver's side head for the temp gauge in the dash.
The correct one to replace is the one in the pass head. I believe it is actually between the #6 and 8 plugs.
BTW.. Make sure you have a drain pan ready.

CrazyHawaiian

Yes and let the coolant cool down so you dont shoot yourself with hot water while installing the fan switch (yehaw! that one was fun). I'm running a 180 Hypertech fan switch (overpriced but does the job), and a generic 180 degree stat with a 1/8th inch hole drilled through. With both fan motors in working condition (stock dual fans) the car maintains 180 degrees at all times, freeway, stop and go, even on the hawaii raceway park road course for 5 hours straight in the hot hawaii sun.

Fan switch and matching thermostat should definately be the #1 cooling mod any 3rd gen owner should do. The stock setup is set to cool down too late.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I have a 180 degree thermostat and want to buy the fan switch to match. Do I need just the fan switch? And where is the fan swicth and where do I change it? Thanks.

Don 79 TA

it is on the pass. side head get it from underneath the car
you will have antifreeze draining out when you remove it
so be prepared
i just changed mine
turns out there was one in there, but not sure of the temp, since the stat was 160 (which was stuck in the open position)
i put in a high flow 180 with a 180 switch, works good
i still have to see if there is a chip in the car, i advanced the timing but didn't hear any pinging
i think i went to 8 degrees total

i did my stat on the lift at the shop, otherwise you will have to jack it up or use ramps
it's like right above the starter

since you have a 180 stat, use the hypertech 180 switch (or is it 200) i forget.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

The fan switch is on the cylinder head? I just wanted to be sure where you meant.

You could have drained the anitfreeze with the drain plug on the passenger side of the radiator. That is what I did to change the thermostat. A little easier to control the flow out of the motor.

I set the timing on mine to 5 degrees. I think I will check my 02 sensor and a few other things. It has lost power and is EATING gas. I just got 200 miles on a little more than 3/4s of a tank. Any idea why this would be?

Thank you for the info.

Don 79 TA

what is your engine temp at on the gauge?

the switch is on the passenger head (or block) like i said it's right by above the starter.

bump your timing to 8 degrees if using premium go to like 10-12 and see how it is

mpg's also depend on how you drive, stop and go, mashing the pedal etc.

also when was it last tuned (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, pcv valve, decarbonized the intake/throttle body, air filter, etc.)

her car was like 0 degrees, i bumped it up to 8 and WOW
woke it up.

if you up the timing, becareful of detonation with high heat. her car is arounf 180ish, so no prob on 93 oct.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I put in the 180 thermostat today. Made a difference in the running temp. The advance is now at 5 I think.

Last plugs, plug wires, distributer (he replaced the whole distributer with a used on, something on mine was broke), etc. Was about a month or two ago. He used cheap parts, used distributer, and set the advance to 0. I had the advance reset to 5. I think I need to replace the plugs (cheap) and distributer (used). I remembered that after you asked.

I found the fan switch today when I changed the oil. A 305 needs 4 quarts, right?

I normally run mid-grade in my car. The advance set to 6 should be about right, then right. I put low grade in it last fill-up and I heard alot more detonation.

Don 79 TA

either back the timing off, or add higher grade fuel, you can destroy the motor that way

is it tpi?
i'd use the 5-30 unless you are in warmer client, thinner oil helps with MPG's, but again use what you need for your climate.
since you are stock
replace the plugs with Bosch plats and use a good cap and rotor

i am not sure if 6 degree's is for 305 stock, i thought it was for the 350tpi.

make sure you pull the brown/black wire off before doing the timing change.

a cooler stat can also help prevent dentonation.

if you insit on using 87 octane, you need to tune/time for that then.

hopefully i am helping, i am new to TPI/FI but have a world of mechanical experience. bout dam time i came over to the FI side.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

It is a 305 TBI. I normally run 89 and every other fill up or soand I almost always use a bottle of octane booster on the 89.

I put in 10W-30 this time. I think am gonna get a whole new distributer I think. Oh yes...

I have Bosch plug wires and I am getting the Double Platinums. You need two sets of ACDelco plugs? One is brand new and one has about 2000 miles on it.

And, BTW, you are helping.

Don 79 TA

just so you know, octane booster is crap IMO

i'm also not a fan of double plat plus or splitfires or gadety things like that

straight up bosch plats are going to be perfectly fine.

if you want multiple firing, get an msd box.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Ok. Thanks. Someone else said that the multi's weren't worth the money, but someone else said that they were. So, 2 to 1. They singles win. If gas were cheaper, I would run 93 all the time, but that is a big IF.

jconrad

lol, I agree with everything said here. Octane booster only raises the octane of your fuel a couple points, meaning if it is 93 octane, it might make it 93.3 octane.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I have run 93 for the past 2 tanks. It has been doing better. No octane booster.

How hard was it to get the L05 up and running in your car?

jconrad

Not hard at all. Although after joining this board, there are tons of things I could've/should've done prior to installation.

PM sent

BTW, did you ever replace that O2 sensor? My gas mileage improved slightly when I changed mine.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

No. I haven't changed it yet. I plan to tommorow. I worked today but I got the O2 sensor socket at break. I work 9-5 tommorow, so I will do it then.

TheMysticWizard

iTrader: (1)

the sensor from MadVet.com is 12.99 + 7.99 shipping via ground, so the total is 20.98.

Pretty good price to me, I will order one now.

vrtc350

iTrader: (1)

Where did you get that one, do you remeber the p/n, and how much?

Thanks

irocnroll89

iTrader: (4)

http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=1.138.944
later, shawn

TheMysticWizard

iTrader: (1)

I ordered a switch from MadVet and got it pretty quickly, bottom line was about $21.00 after shipping.

I tested it just to be 100% sure, it does turn on at 200 and off at 185 as stated.

I will be running this for my secondary fan, then set the ecm to turn the primary fan on at 190/off at 180 (all with a 170 t-stat). I figure this will keep my engine around 185 or so around town/at idle, then on the freeway my fans will stay off.

Sounds great to me... anyone else have any input?

vrtc350

iTrader: (1)

Awesome, much cheaper than the Painless from Summit. I ditch my ECM so I am planning on using this with the already existing fan relay to turn the fans on and off.

Diggler86

what if you have an 86 that originally had one fan controlled by ecm, where can you put the temp switch?? is the hole still in the same place, just plugged up?

irocnroll89

iTrader: (4)

should be......... That ecm still needs a signal, so there is a sensor.

vrtc350

iTrader: (1)

It will fit in either the intake manifold or next # 8 in the head.

My question about the switch from Madvet, since I can't actually look at the thing. Can I just buy the switch and make a harness to attach to the end of it or would I be better off getting the harness while I am at it. I can't tell how the harness connects because of the sleeve.

TheMysticWizard

iTrader: (1)

The MadVet switch is exactly the same as the stock switch in terms of connector. It is also exactly the same as the knock sensor connector. If you need a new connector, you can visit one of our sponsors at the top (tpi-parts.net) and if you go under their auctions you will find new connectors.

As far as using this sensor for the ecm... the ecm uses a different type of sensor, it is a 2 prong sensor (coolant temperature sensor) which senses the actual temperature of the coolant, that sensor tells the ecm what temperature the engine is, and the ecm itself turns the fan on according to what temperature the prom says. I don't know if the single fan setups use a temperature switch like what we're discussing here, I thought they were all ecm controlled.

vrtc350

iTrader: (1)

Mine was ECM controlled, I am swapping in a carb. I will use this switch with the already existing relay to turn on the fan. I will have to look through my pile of removed wires and see if I can find a knock sensor plug to save the extra cash, otherwise I will just order the whole thing.

Thanks

ugpkgb

Good stuff on here, helping me out a lot.

Diggler86

yeah my single was ECM controlled only. the intake CTS is what provided temp to ECM.

i still dont know if i have a spot for a sensor on #8, havent looked.

jconrad

vrtc350, you should be able to get a new pigtail connector at just about any auto parts store, usually in the red carded "Help" section.

hitman

So how does the switch you purchased work? Does it funtion as advertised? I need to buy one soon.

Question. Is this switch the only thing that controls the secondary fan? Meaning, if the car gets hot (redline), and the primary does not engage, would the scondary still engage(assuming the fan motor is good)?

TheMysticWizard

iTrader: (1)

Haven't got the switch in yet... but in a pot of water it works as advertised (200 on, 185 off).

Yes it is for the secondary, I plan on setting my primary a bit lower in the chip (like 185 on, 178 off), but incase the primary doesn't come on, or can't keep the engine below 200 by itself, this switch will make the secondary come on at 200. One thing to check, see if the secondary runs period, mine wouldn't run with the sensor wire grounded (it should come on if you ground the wire that goes to the switch) I traced it down to a bad relay, once I replaced that, it ran fine.