Who can show me where to drill a hole in my 'stat? Pics??
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: East Windsor, NJ, 08520
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 2002 Harley Nightrain
Engine: twin cam 88ci
Transmission: manual
Who can show me where to drill a hole in my 'stat? Pics??
I dont use any thermostat at all, and the motor goes up to 180 before I turn my fan on. I want some restriction in there, it takes forever to warm up, as you could imagine, so I'm gonna put my 160* 'stat back in, but I want to drill it. Where do I drill the hole(s), how many, how big? If someone has a picture of theirs that would be great. Thanks
I've got an aluminum pump, 3 core radiator, flex fan, and 10" electric fan. I never put my A/C back on since I did the cam.
I've got an aluminum pump, 3 core radiator, flex fan, and 10" electric fan. I never put my A/C back on since I did the cam.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: East Windsor, NJ, 08520
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 2002 Harley Nightrain
Engine: twin cam 88ci
Transmission: manual
thanks for the pic Speedcat, but I'm using a regular type thermostat made by Stant, it doesnt look like yours. But the idea is the same. Compared to where you drilled the hole in yours, where should I drill a regular one?
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '86 TransAm WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Custom TH700R4
Most of the standard-type 'stats i've seen are drilled on the rim, about where I put the red dots on this picture. Again, about 1/8" holes.
Trending Topics
#9
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Posts: 4,671
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Most people running electric water pumps drill 3-4 1/8" holes in the stat so it'll relieve some of the strain on the electric pump, how much this helps in that situation I don't know, but the theory sounds good. I just did it when I rebuilt my motor cause everybody was saying to do it, gains-???
#11
Supreme Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Springfield, MO, USA
Posts: 1,536
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
yes it doesi had a small problem with my car overheating i had replaced everything and not even griffin or be-cool could figure it out. any how long story short. i drilled one hole in the stat, and it fixed the air pocket problem because normal ways wouldnt get rid of them.
#12
Supreme Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: CC, TX
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
i have a 160 stat that i drilled two 1/4" holes in it. warms up quick in the summer, i dont run this stat in the winter.
i like drilling holes
i like drilling holes
#13
Supreme Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Dash PT, WA
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: LB9
Transmission: WC T5
i guess drilling holes is pretty popular in the stat, i did it in mine because in the summer, my car would heat up too quick and then overheat(remember its like 120*) i drilled 3 1/8" holes around the side to just let some flow in before the stat opened, seemed to work for me, never go above 200* anymore...
#14
Supreme Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Springfield, MO, USA
Posts: 1,536
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Originally posted by fast86z28
....never go above 200* anymore...
....never go above 200* anymore...
#15
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Upland Pa
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Camaro Vert
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 S60
Originally posted by MikeInAZ
Prevents "hot pockets" from building in your engine block and will help eliminate air from the cooling system.
Prevents "hot pockets" from building in your engine block and will help eliminate air from the cooling system.
Kat
#16
Supreme Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: CC, TX
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
Originally posted by 86TpiTransAm
200??? Man, I start to panic when I hit 185! I like mine to run at about 170 all time. I'd like to get it to run about 130-140 all the time because that's when it runs the best but we all know that can't be accomplished in the summer time.
200??? Man, I start to panic when I hit 185! I like mine to run at about 170 all time. I'd like to get it to run about 130-140 all the time because that's when it runs the best but we all know that can't be accomplished in the summer time.
#17
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Conroe, TX
Posts: 3,177
Received 55 Likes
on
41 Posts
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
Our cars are built to run between 195 and 220 all day long and not have problems. I used to freak out too when it hit 200....but not anymore. Just remember you're getting your best mpg at about 195-200.
#18
Drilling holes will keep the water on each side of the thermostat the same temp and keep it from opening and slaming back shut again. This save wear and tear on the radiator. Many makes, Olds, Ford and others (LS1 GM) and others have t-stat bypass systems. I do lots of cooling system work and I recomend it... highly..
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: outerspace(maybe..pluto)?
Posts: 527
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"Our cars are built to run..."
That line is the biggest load of BS I've heard ... and I've heard it multiple times. You see, GM built our cars to run 195-200 all day long. That's STOCK! I no longer have a stock car. MY car is built differently than what GM originally built and therefore you cannot use the line "Our cars are built to run...". That's like saying "Our cars were built to run on 91 octane gas". Maybe from the factory but you try telling that to somebody that's not running the same compression as they were stock. It's all about how you build it.
And for the skeptics out there ... take your car to a real dyno and see if it makes more power at 120 degrees or 220 degrees. I think you'll be suprised.
Let's not forget... viscosity and HEAT break down oil, the protector of your rings and bearings. Keep running your engine at 200 degrees and I'll stick with my cooler, better protected engine.
That line is the biggest load of BS I've heard ... and I've heard it multiple times. You see, GM built our cars to run 195-200 all day long. That's STOCK! I no longer have a stock car. MY car is built differently than what GM originally built and therefore you cannot use the line "Our cars are built to run...". That's like saying "Our cars were built to run on 91 octane gas". Maybe from the factory but you try telling that to somebody that's not running the same compression as they were stock. It's all about how you build it.
And for the skeptics out there ... take your car to a real dyno and see if it makes more power at 120 degrees or 220 degrees. I think you'll be suprised.
Let's not forget... viscosity and HEAT break down oil, the protector of your rings and bearings. Keep running your engine at 200 degrees and I'll stick with my cooler, better protected engine.
#20
I agree. Heat is the enemy of engines and transmissions. The only reason why our cars were designed with a high temp stat was to cut down on emissons. When I used to open the hood after a drive on my previous Formula it felt like an oven cuz it had the stock stat. With the 160 stat I have on now I can leave my hand on the upper radiator hose without getting burned. Plus I have a manual fan switch installed. It's pretty safe to say that an engine constantly running at 200* will wear out faster than an engine running at lower temps.
#21
since i swapped my 195° for a 180°, i no longer have the near-overheat problems when i idle in traffic in the summer with the a/c on (which btw makes the a/c perform like crap). my gas mileage hasn't changed any, except maybe 1/2 mpg worse in the winter than normal (~16-17 around town, last winter was like 17-18 ish, though i have a new engine still with 10W40 in it for another month). one other thing i noticed- not only does it keep the engine a bit cooler, which prob protects it a bit better, it also keeps the alternator 15° cooler, which not only improves its efficiency, but also its lifespan. heat is the enemy of any part with lots of inherent resistance or friction, especially if it's electrical.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BurlyChev
Tech / General Engine
14
08-22-2015 01:52 PM