Bort62

Ive got my E4ME completely apart on the Table In front of Me and freshly solvent Bathed, and Would like to rebuild it sometime in the near Future ( If not only for the learning experiance )

What parts Should I consider replacing ? the TPS was bad and that is the reason For the rebuild, So this is automatic, But what about the rest ?

Needle, Seat ? jets ( does the E4ME even have primary jets ? ) Rods hangers gaskets ect.


And lastly, Where is the best place to pick all these parts from, I see Carparts.com Lists some Rebuild "kits" For this carb, But what all do they contain, and what else Do I need ? Who makes a good quality Kit ?

Thanks For All the Information You reveal.

------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

RB83L69

turn the fuel bowl upside down. Notice at the front of the carb that there are 2 "tower" looking blobs of casting, and that there are 2 little plugs in each of them. You need to wire brush, then sand to bare metal, then lacqure thinner, then epoxy over them to take care of the leaks they almost certainly have.

The E4ME certainly does have jets. They should be siting on the table in front of you. They look like little short fat brass screws with a hole in them.

You don't really need to replace jets or rods or hangers in a rebuild. Carb kits are a pretty standard assortment of things regardless of brand; they include all the gaskets, a needle and seat, the check ball for the pump, a new pump or at least the rubber ring for it, and a few other misc small parts. In addition to the kit and the TPS you should get a float, the primary choke pull-off diaphragm, and a fuel filter. You can get a kit almost anywhere. I would stay away from Tomco because of their strange needle valve replacement thing. Borg-Warner, Standard Ignition, Holley, of course AC/Delco are common good ones.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

Damon

Just get a standard rebuild kit, a new float and the TPS you were already planning on replacing. A new choke pulloff/air valve dapener diaphragm should alo be on the parts list if yours is original. The jets and rods in the computer controlled QJet should NOT be messed with. If you plan any calibration chages make it to the secondary rods- they do most of the work from 2/3 throttle up anyway.

Make sure you are VERY careful with the new TPS. There is a small "pushrod" that pushes the TPS plunger to change the voltage. It is pushed by the accelerator pump arm. It sticks through the top of the carb at a slight angle and a sort of little "seal" that holds it where close to where it goes through. It is very easy to bend/break/simply forget to replace this critical little piece. If you mess it up your new TPS won't work right anyway.

Bort62

Thanks for the responses.

RB, the Im looking at the Towers You described Right now, and they appear to be perfectly solid.

This carb Appears to have been rebuilt previous, as the idle mixture screws have been Chopped open, and some parts look alot newer than the rest.

But I will go ahead and Do what you Say, JB weld a Good enough Solution ?



------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

RB83L69

That's what I use.

They may look solid, but they're not. The 2 plugs in each one cover the access holes that the factory drilled in order to get at the various internal passages, several of which are drilled from underneath. If you sand them down you'll see the different color of metal. I've taken way too many of those carbs off, done nothing but fix that leak, and seen massive changes. I've seen it sometimes doubling the gas mileage, curing overheating at idle, fixing fouled plugs at idle, cleaning up the black soot on the back bumper problem, curing short catalyst life, etc.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

Bort62

well I Will Do it, Fergot to buy damn laquer thiner at work Today tho



------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

Nordbert

The TPS on the electronic Q-jet is easily
broken when lowerng the airhorn onto the bowl casting. I recommend holding the plunger
of the TPS down with a stiff strip of metal
like a .020" feeler gauge or a butter knife!,
then seat the airhorn to the bowl.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

A good alternative to just epoxying over those well plugs is to replace them (they're lead). To do that, get a couple of 1/4-10 screws (w/tapered heads, preferably) and a 1/4-10 tap. Drill the old plugs out (I forget the drill size - use what you'd use to drill a hole for the threads you're about to make). Tap the holes, and put epoxy on the threads before you install the screws. Tighten them down, and then slab some more epoxy around the heads.

If you do the drilling & tapping before you soak the bowl in cleaner, you can blow these passages out more thoroughly than if they're plugged. And, the screws with the epoxy on the threads provide a more positive seal than just the epoxy over the lead plugs.

Interesting that with all the "problems" they supposedly fixed, Edelbrock still uses the lead plugs for these passages on their new q-jets.

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, WP 305 heads ported & polished, Hooker headers & y-pipe, hi-flow cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

RB83L69

The drilling and tapping method is indeed a more positive and permanent fix. Be extremely careful, if you do that, that you don't split or oterwise break the casting, because your carb will surely be garbage then.

Edelbrock doesn't make the carb, they just buy it, same as anybody else. So theirs will all have the same problem after a few years of dissimilar-metal electrolysis has had time to take effect.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports