I just picked up a Rochester 4 bbl at the Junkyard today. I'm doing the rebuild myself, know nothing of this particular carb's history, but seems in good condition (considering where it came from). Question is, after it is rebuilt, how do i test it for problems without attaching it to my vehicle? I dont want to swap carbs but want to know how this 1 performs before i stick it on there.

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--Steve S-- 84 Trans Am 305 HO 5 speed, completely stock will soup up when i get some $$$$$$$$$$

 

Aside from the obvious signs (cracked metal, warpage) you can't really tell how any carb will work until you have it on your engine. If you rebuild it properly it should work well enough to run at first then you can tune it for your engine. It seems you're worried about an engine fire or playing with gas. Just don't be stupid and you'll be fine. An extunisher is always nice to have handy.

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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration

 

Ah yes, the poor man's parts store!

Do a good rebuild on it before you put it on the car. Junkyard carbs are always all gunked up inside with dirt and varnish from the old fuel sitting in them. Strip it down, soak it overnight in a bucket of carb cleaner, blow out every passage you can with compressed air and reassemble with new gaskets EXACTLY like it was before. Check for obvious stuff that might have been monkeyed with by the previous owner- bent/gouged/mismatched idle mixture screws (2 that stick out the front of the carb down low at a slight angle), mismatched primary jets (a pair of 72s will work a LOT better than on 68 and one 77!!). Ditto the primary metering rods- their part numbers are stamped into the side of the rod real tiny-like. Make sure you have a matched pair. Same goes for the seondary metering rods.

Also, make sure the "power piston" goes up and down freely (it's the thing the primary metering rods attach to and should bounce up and down easily in it's bore). New float can never hurt (they dont usually come in most rebuild kits). Take your time, be METICULOUS about every detail and you'll do fine.

 

How much did you have to pay for it?

Thats what im going to do unless someone wants to sell me a good condition airhorn. I think i bent all the air bleed tubes. No idle at all.

 

It was like $30 after tax and a core charge

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--Steve S-- 84 Trans Am 305 HO 5 speed, completely stock will soup up when i get some $$$$$$$$$$

 

Cool, thanks