When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
CarburetorsCarb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.
Driving around the Arkansas heat with a dead-head setup is one way to make my girlfriend annoyed. Right now, my gas tank is hooked up to a edelbrock 7psi electric fuel pump straight to the carb. I have the return hose plugged up with a screw. After a long drive it starts to stall and fuel starts to visibly bubble through the clear fuel filter near the carb. After cooling down for a bit, it starts and drives like normal. People on youtube are saying the easiest way to stop vapor lock is to buy a vapor separator gas filter. I got a picture of one here. I am supposed to add this thing in-line of the fuel line and have the return hooked up to the offset barb. Since the pressure is already regulated, would I still need a fuel pressure regulator? Should I take advice from a guy smoking a cigarette over an engine bay from youtube and use this 3 prong filter or is there a better route to go?
Last edited by eshipplosk; 06-13-2024 at 11:41 AM.
I use Holley's carbureted bypass regulator.
That solved my fuel overheating issues.
I also have an electric pump and use the regulator to keep the pressure in check as my pump puts out in excess of what a carb can handle.
The return line ensures that the fuel is always circulating and keeps cooler in comparison.
That's been in my plans for a long time.
I think it's an excellent idea. I'd prefer to sleeve it rather than a shield. IIRC, there's a split sleeve available.
Some of my brake lines are also very close to the headers.
That pictured metal fuel filter will probably work. Mount it as close to carb as possible. It basically allows fuel circulation back to the tank, keeping fuel flowing and cooler. You probably won't even need a pressure regulator with that. You can also just add a t-fitting instead and it will circulate the fuel. I have done that successfully with Edelbrock.
Get rid of any plastic or glass clear filters. All fire hazards. And route as much through homemade steel or braided lines as possible.
Get a couple wooden clothes pins and clip them onto the fuel line.
I'm guessing those clothes pin are acting as a radiator for the fuel line. As much as I like would like to do this, the fuel line is pretty damn close to the headers, so the risk of fire is scaring me off a little.
Seems like I remember fuel and brake lines having this spring wrapped around them referred to as a gravel guard. I think it also helped with cooling them off too.
Right Stuff Detailing Gravel Guard Spring Material, Tubing Armor, Stainless Steel, Natural, 3/8 in. Diameter, 20 ft. Length.
Last edited by Airwolfe; 06-14-2024 at 10:38 AM.
Reason: Added picture
I'm guessing those clothes pin are acting as a radiator for the fuel line. As much as I like would like to do this, the fuel line is pretty damn close to the headers, so the risk of fire is scaring me off a little.
Yeah, that's my theory as well. Apparently it was an old military trick (I think for the original jeeps, who knows).
Totally get the worry about fire. I have full length headers and my fuel line also comes up on the passenger side maybe an inch or a little more from one of the pipes. It is wrapped and has two clothes pins on it. It's been like that for over a decade now with no issues.
For reference the wrap is some kind they used to sell that was almost like a split sleeve except you wrap it around and the two ends sandwich together (think like if you folded a piece of paper over and just glued the ends together).
06-13-2024, 10:55 AM
