winter carb adjusting
#1
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH350
winter carb adjusting
It got down to 10 degrees last night here. I winter!
Anyway, my car sputtered a lot today and even died once after it warmed up good. Should carbs typically be adjusted to run richer or leaner in cold weather? Thanks.
Anyway, my car sputtered a lot today and even died once after it warmed up good. Should carbs typically be adjusted to run richer or leaner in cold weather? Thanks.
#2
Supreme Member
Generally you don't need to rejet the carb for winter driving,
but if you tuned it for best performance on a hot humid summer day and now have leaner than stock out of the box jetting, then it may be too lean now (winter).
Need more info on your car/engine combination to see where you're at. (Carb model,jetting, metering rods, manifold type,
cam, trans converter stall speed and gearing.) Is your manifold
plenum heat passage blocked [intentionally or plugged with carbon] or open (heated)? Also if you are running a stock carb (Qjet) and have removed the factory heated
air cleaner, manifold heat stove pipe, etc, the cold weather drivability will be affected. The factory system is designed to regulate the air inlet temps for fast warm ups and lower emissions
and drivability with relatively lean metering.
but if you tuned it for best performance on a hot humid summer day and now have leaner than stock out of the box jetting, then it may be too lean now (winter).
Need more info on your car/engine combination to see where you're at. (Carb model,jetting, metering rods, manifold type,
cam, trans converter stall speed and gearing.) Is your manifold
plenum heat passage blocked [intentionally or plugged with carbon] or open (heated)? Also if you are running a stock carb (Qjet) and have removed the factory heated
air cleaner, manifold heat stove pipe, etc, the cold weather drivability will be affected. The factory system is designed to regulate the air inlet temps for fast warm ups and lower emissions
and drivability with relatively lean metering.
#3
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH350
I thought I had shown my sig, but obviously didn't. I looked it over today, and it seemed very drastic that the car would flat die on me after it warmed up good just for being too lean. I checked all the ignition stuff and it wound up being a loose battery wire going to the distributor. I always seem to look at the wrong thing first, but at least I fixed it so I'm happy once again. I appreciate the info.
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