Gentlemen I need your help! I searched and searched and cant find what I am looking for. Can someone either point me in the right direction or just tell me what I am over looking here!

I am doing a 350TBI to a 355 Carb swap. 1992 Camaro... I am trying to cut down the stock wiring harness to run the carb motor. Only think I am keeping is heat. Can anyone give me a run down on the best/easiest way to eliminate all these wires, and anyone know where to find some good pictures and diagrams!?!

Thanks guys,

Darren

 

of all the wires that run to the engine, you only need the wire that powers the distributor, the alternator trigger wire, and the AC clutch wiring if you are keeping the AC.. you should also keep the temp and oil pressure gauge or light wires...

everything else can go- that whole harness that goes thru the firewall in the passenger side kick panel area can be taken out, along with the ecm that is buried up in the passenger side of the dash. make a simple plug to fill the hole where the ecm harness used to go and it's done..

 

If I eliminate it all like your saying do I need to worry about VATS? What about my gauges and such, those wouldnt work would they? I know the bare minimum I have to do to get the car running but I still wanted my cluster and all to work.

 

yeah be careful with just going in there and and hacking up wires. some of the older models didnt have all the sensors.
for example my brother went in there and cut up a bunch of wires bc someone told him i only needed a few to run the car. our cars have an electric fuel pump. that relay is activated by the oil pressure switch right above the oil filter. i had to rig up the pump to a switch for a while until i finally figured it out. what i did was eliminate all the wires that were not hooked up anymore. i traced them all the way up and down the harness and removed them. anything that is still connected leave.
my computer is still there. dont know if it does anything, but its not hurting anything either....
try austinthirdgen.org they have very good wiring diagrams.
good luck, its a PIA trying to trace down wires.
also get a current tester. the ones that light up when there is power. good tool

 

Here's the link to the site you are referring to.

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=19

 

There are many different options to wire this up. See attached schematic and descriptions below. I removed a bunch of stuff so the fuel pump circuit is a little easier to see.

One choice is to wire in a momentay switch wired to to 12 volts on one end and then connect the other side of the switch to the Red, fuel pump prime wire on the fuel pump relay. If the car has been sitting for a long time you press the switch down for ~30 seconds, enough to fill the bowls, release and then start the car. The oil pressure switch then takes over to keep the pump running.

Choice 2 is to wire in a momentay switch wired to to 12 volts on one end and then connect the other side of the switch to the dark green w/white stripe on the fuel pump relay. If the car has been sitting for a long time you press the switch down for ~30 seconds, enough to fill the bowls, release and then start the car. The oil pressure switch then takes over to keep the pump running.

Choice 3, replace the fuel pump relay with a timed off relay. The coil side of the relay goes to a switched 12 volt source. Using a normally open contact wire the orange wire to one side and the gray wire to the other. When you first turn the ignition on the contact will close, the pump will come on for the length of time set on the relay and then it will open the contact back up. By then you might have the car started and the oil pressure switch will take over to keep the pump running.

You don't need the pump to constant run just to start the car if there is fuel already in the bowls. One word of advice, I don't like running switches to devices that draw a lot of power like a fuel pump. I much rather have the switch control a low power device like a relay and have the relay control the power to the pump. The switch will last a lot longer that way and doesn't have to be really big to handle a lot of power making it easier to hide if that is your plan.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...p-3rd-gen.html

 

The gauges work direct from their own sensors on the wires you leave in the car .
Only the V6 and TPI cars have the speedo signal going through the ECM before going to the dash so on your car where the article
says to mod the buffer/ box VSS signal wires

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...937-post3.html

you just leave it all in place for a carb swap.

 

No
but as VATS is no longer saving your car from being stolen (by shutting off the fuel through the now gone computer )
you may as well bypass the starter enable relay also controlled by VATS.
Serves no real function with the ECM gone and is just something else to go wrong from age

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...ay-bypass.html

Then install a hidden kill switch to kill the fuel or spark