SuperHawk996xx

iTrader: (1)

OK, my fuel pump is now leaking fuel around the diaphragm and all my gas is all over my driveway I want to stick with the mechanical fuel pump and wanted some input of a really good fuel pump brand. The pump that just went bad was an el cheapo from Autozone so no more of them. thought about trying to find an AC Delco pump and sticking with them since the orginal one lasted 100k miles. Any suggestions on a brand? Nothing high proformence is needed.

Damon

Agreed- get a REAL factory fuel pump over the counter from GM.

Next step up would be a Carter "Muscle Car" pump that's got the correct factory fittings on it (more or less) and flows more than a stock pump by quite a bit. It doesn't have a return line like I think your factory fuel pump does, though.

Damon

Here's the high performance version rated 120 GPH WITH A RETURN LINE FITTING:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-M6626/

And here's the stock 40 GPH version of the pump that does NOT have a return line:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-M4685/

SuperHawk996xx

iTrader: (1)

Yea, a return line is must since vapor lock is a problem on these cars. I have experienced it once already. Thank god for the glass fuel filter I have that I could see that NO gas was moving. thanks guys. I am going to try to find another AC delco pump. I like the Carter high performance pump but wont 120 gph be abit much on Carb needles?

Damon

No, it would work fine. It runs at stock pressure around 6 PSI. It's just capable of delivering more volume than stock. A mechanical fuel pump is a pretty simple device and is self-regulating. Lever pushes spring, spring pushes diaphragm and diaphragm pushes fuel. How stiff the spring is determines the maximum pressure it will deliver. If the carb can't use all the volume the pump is capable of delivering (obviously in situations like idling, light throttle) the spring simply compresses and no more fuel is delivered.

Yeah.... um..... about that glass filter. You'll want to be replacing that. Thos things are dangerous and restrictive. If the glass breaks you dump fuel all over a hot engine. And the filter "screen" inside it is known to be highly restrictive at some very modest power levels (well under 300 HP). On the cheap, pick up a rigid plastic Fram G3 filter. It is see-through and has 3/8" hose nipples on either end just like your existing glass one. It costs only a few bucks and it flows a TON more fuel. I run one on my 383 blower motor and it keep up no problem. Above that price point are many good filter setups. Just get rid of that POS glass filter as soon as possible, please.

Also, at idle you won't see any fuel flow through the filter (the engine uses almost no fuel at idle) and there will always be some air trapped in it. Just thought you might like to know.

ibmtech

iTrader: (1)

You can get a new from OEM or Autozone or Advance and it doesn't matter. I have had bad from both. Basically, just the only difference is the price. I have only had I think 1 bad pump from A/Z in 10 years.

SuperHawk996xx

iTrader: (1)

I think I just changed my mind then. The Carter it will be. Yea, the glass fuel filter was what I "thought" was a good idea ten years ago when I installed the new engine. I have had problems with the rubber o ring leaking around the filter and have had to improvise on some solutions. It has worked for me when diagnosing vapor lock issue which I have only had once so far. thanks for advise guys.