QJet Rebuild Questions
#1
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Car: 1986 Trans AM
Engine: LG4-305-Edelbrock Intake/Q-Jet Carb
Transmission: Automatic
QJet Rebuild Questions
Greetings,
Just got done rebuilding QJet Carb but I have a few questions:
1. Although the exploded diagram of the re-build kit shows as Rear Vacuum Break, this carb does not seem to have one. Is this an issue? Did these carbs originally have one or not and it is missing or was removed? The model #on the side is 17085202. ( See Attached Picture (Carb.jpg))
2. When we opened the carb underneath the blue-topped M/C Solenoid there is supposed to be, according to the exploded diagram, a little cup called the "Insert Well". It was not there. Is that in anyway problematic?
3. Once re-assembled, the choke plate lies fully closed at rest and when I try to open it by hand it only opens about1/2 way to fully open vertical? Is this right or should I be able to fully open the choke? Is this the result of the re-assembled choke not being adjusted properly? ( See Attached Pictures, Carb2.jpg and Carb3.jpg)).
4, We inspected the float and it seemed fine and did not to be appear to be leaking , heavy or contain any fluid. We did not replace it. Was that a mistake? Looks like the carb had been re-built at least once before as the rivets from the choke had been drilled and replaced with screws out so the float may very well have been replaced before.
5. We also did not replace the TPS or M/C Solenoid. Is that in any way problematic?
6. Other things I might look for?
As always your advice is greatly appreciated.
Attachment 234031
Attachment 234032
Attachment 234033
Just got done rebuilding QJet Carb but I have a few questions:
1. Although the exploded diagram of the re-build kit shows as Rear Vacuum Break, this carb does not seem to have one. Is this an issue? Did these carbs originally have one or not and it is missing or was removed? The model #on the side is 17085202. ( See Attached Picture (Carb.jpg))
2. When we opened the carb underneath the blue-topped M/C Solenoid there is supposed to be, according to the exploded diagram, a little cup called the "Insert Well". It was not there. Is that in anyway problematic?
3. Once re-assembled, the choke plate lies fully closed at rest and when I try to open it by hand it only opens about1/2 way to fully open vertical? Is this right or should I be able to fully open the choke? Is this the result of the re-assembled choke not being adjusted properly? ( See Attached Pictures, Carb2.jpg and Carb3.jpg)).
4, We inspected the float and it seemed fine and did not to be appear to be leaking , heavy or contain any fluid. We did not replace it. Was that a mistake? Looks like the carb had been re-built at least once before as the rivets from the choke had been drilled and replaced with screws out so the float may very well have been replaced before.
5. We also did not replace the TPS or M/C Solenoid. Is that in any way problematic?
6. Other things I might look for?
As always your advice is greatly appreciated.
Attachment 234031
Attachment 234032
Attachment 234033
#2
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Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: QJet Rebuild Questions
No vacuum break on rear is right
No well under MC is OK
Choke should open completely by simply pushing against it. The only thing holding it open when cold should be the choke coil (spring) inside the choke cover. Check your linkage.
You'll probably fine with your old float.
You should test the TPS as they often require replacement with age, but your MC solenoid should be good. If re-using the old TPS I like to put an extra spring under it. They can sometimes stick with varnish build up on the plunger.
No well under MC is OK
Choke should open completely by simply pushing against it. The only thing holding it open when cold should be the choke coil (spring) inside the choke cover. Check your linkage.
You'll probably fine with your old float.
You should test the TPS as they often require replacement with age, but your MC solenoid should be good. If re-using the old TPS I like to put an extra spring under it. They can sometimes stick with varnish build up on the plunger.
#3
Supreme Member
Re: QJet Rebuild Questions
Agreed with NAF.
You can bench test the MC solenoid. Apply 12V across the terminals and you should hear it "click" as it pulls the MC plunger down. And again when you break the circuit. It's just an electro-magnet. They are normally extremely reliable.
You can bench test the MC solenoid. Apply 12V across the terminals and you should hear it "click" as it pulls the MC plunger down. And again when you break the circuit. It's just an electro-magnet. They are normally extremely reliable.
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