bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

I just bought an 83 Trans Am and have been driving it around and love every second of it. That said, I know the engine can benefit from the proper carb selection. The PO installed an Edelbrock performer intake, MSD distributor, and a Holley 670cfm on the stock 305!

That carburetor seems gigantic in comparison to a stock LG4. I would really like to use a factory Qjet, but the intake is a square bore intake and I don't want to have to swap it out.

What would be a good carburetor for my T/A?

Camaro305SB

I'd put a factory intake or a spread bore Performer on it and go back to the Q jet, otherwise, a Holley 600 should be fine. Is there a particular condition that your experiencing to make you say the carb is too big?

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

I've always figured that a 305 really shouldnt go over a 600cfm carburetor, even though I have heard that a rochester can flow up to 750cfm. The car smokes a little at idle, which I believe is because it is too rich. Also the car will bog down and act like its going to stall if its floored from a stop, and has no pickup. I believe this is because its flooding...

tajoe

iTrader: (1)

Bradley, there's nothing wrong with with your current set-up, if your using it for basic transportation. the holley 600 square bore is definatly not overcarburated. If you already had the Q jet and intake manifold i would leave it as such, but your holley is easy enough to rebuild if it needs it. what color is the smoke you're talking about? black is fuel, blue is oil, and white is water... generally.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Not really sure on the color, it seems kind of hit/miss. It has a Holley 670 though, not a 600. I had an 84 T/A and it also had an LG4, but it had the stock intake/carb/dizzy and it ran flawlessly, which is why I wanted to make sure I am not over-carbureted.

tajoe

iTrader: (1)

Once again Bradley, your 305 is not "overcabureted" with your 670. As you stated, the stock qjet has the capabilities to flow 750.the 84 that ran great, probably had a good working ECM system, and your holley could run just as good when working correctly.if you swapped to an original electronic Qjet, you'ld better be prepared to get all the electronics funtioning properly too. Is your car wired for that system? if your state doesn't require you to be emission tested, then it's not worth the aggravation. Only my opinion anyway. hopefully you'll get others to express their opinion, to guide you towards a more "comfortable" decision. good luck.

Apeiron

Actually it's pretty similar.

Air_Adam

670 Holley is a vacuum secondary. It will work fine. I think a Qjet would be a better choice though.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I guess I may have answered my own question when I said that a stock Qjet can flow 750, lol. There are quite a few wires that are disconnected which I believe are for the stock carb and ECM things, but I can't be sure it will all work if I was to hook it all back up.

So do you guys think I should just keep the Holley on there, and run it as-is?

Out of curiosity, did rochester ever make a Qjet with a square bore style bottom?

Apeiron

All Quadrajets are spreadbore.

tajoe

iTrader: (1)

Brad, you're easiest way out is to freshen up your holley, if it actually"is" the culprit to your smoking, stalling and bogging. Another option is to find the stock intake and carb and convert it back to the original ECM system, and if you're lucky("are you?"),or very ambitious and persistent, you "may" get it to work properly. As far as a square bore Qjet, never existed, however Rochester did make a square bore carb in the late 50s to early 60s.don't think it'ld be any better than what you've got now tho. not even sure of the bolt pattern. anyway, you said you had a ball driving this car. hope you get the bugs out.

donnis618

I think you may just need to tune the 670. re-jet maybe. Make sure your throttle blades are set right along with your floats and idle screws, etc. That 670 should do you good esp if you make mods later on.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

are you still running the electronic controlled distributor? Perhaps THAT is your real problem. If the car was changed to an after market non-electronic Carb, you must also change the distributor to Vacuum Advance. This was the case with my Camaro. the PO changed the Carb, but not the Distributor.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

It has a streetfire dizzy in it, and I would really like to go back to all stock stuff. I don't think that he accounted for the ECM controlling the TCC, so the transmission is really annoying always "re-shifting" and so on...

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Does the dizzy have a flat four-wire connector coming off of it? If so, it's a stock-style dizzy and was never changed. It's meant for the ECM to control the timing. Without that, it'll run like garbage.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

It has an MSD streetfire distributor in it.... It is a vacuum advance unit and is certainly NOT stock. I know what a stock distributor looks like I have had a few of them, actually.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Where is the initial timing set? The factory computer controlled timing setting is not at all adequate. 8-12 degrees initial (vacuum advance disconnected) is a good starting point.

If you don't want to change the intake manifold, then work with the Holley. The primaries are the main difference between it and a q-jet - throttle response won't be quite as crisp, and fuel economy won't be quite as good. But other than that, there shouldn't be any difference between them (or a smaller carb).

You need to get a TV cable geometry corrector bracket to install on the carb throttle arm. Most likely that's you're shift-searching problem, incorrect TV attachment. You can't "fix" it without the corrector bracket. And, get the TCC lock-up working one way or another - there are kits available, or you can hook up a switch you operate, or you can hook up a pressure switch to do the job.

If you decide you do want to switch the intake, and the 305 is basically stock, I have a stock spread bore intake I'll send you for the cost of shipping. I have an '82 computer & harness, but don't have the distributor or carb anymore.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

I have the Distributor if you want to go back to computer controlled. Someone put an aftermarket Edelbrock on mine and i bought a Vacuum Advance Distributor. I'll make you the same deal as Five7, Cost of shipping only on the dizzy. I also have the computer since my car is an 82 and i went to an aftermarket Lockup control. Again, same deal. Cost of shipping only. That brings me to the next point that Five7 brought up -- Lockup Control. Here is the Kit i'm using:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70244/

It's Wonderful. You don't have to drop the transmission pan and hookup is Extremely quick. I did debate the issue of where to put the control panel for a LONG TIME, but i caved and used my dremel to cut a VERY small hole in my dash where the bottom angle meets the flat part. Here's a shot. I only wish the face was black and the letters were white, but it DOES work well. There's a dial where you can adjust the speed where the converter locks up. I have mine set to about 45 MPH.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

I am not sure where the initial timing is set at, when I got it I realized very quickly that this guy was no mechanic. The distributor cap was installed 90* off, meaning that the wiring was pointing towards the carb, and the advance canister was pointing where it should, so I pulled the cap and just set the timing by ear and put the cap on the right way. He had one of those "triangles of death" aircleaners on there that the engine had allready eaten part of... The way he had the distributor wouldn't allow a regular open element filter to be installed, thats why I adjusted the distributor. I may take you on that offer of the intake, is it the same as the factory one that was on my engine originally?

Will a pic of the way the TV cable is mounted help you determine if it is installed incorrectly?

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

My car still has the ECM in it because the PO said he left it in there to "still control the transmission".... I didn't want to debate the fact that f the computer doesnt know the RPM's, TPS, or anything how could it possibly know when to shift correctly...? But, either way this problem needs to be remedied. That kit is a bit on the expensive side, but looks like it would work pretty good. I want to go back to stock stuff, so I won't be needing the aftermarket kit, given that my ECM and wiring is still up to par.

Got a pic of the dizzy? I may take that offer.

Apeiron

The ECM has nothing to do with shifting, it's entirely hydraulic and controlled by the logic in the valvebody. It did control the torque converter clutch operation though, but without the inputs it's not able to and you'll need to provide an alternate means of controlling it.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Yes, thats what I meant to say, was TCC control, not shifting lol. But yes I was quite sure that the ECM wouldn't know what to do with the TCC if it didnt have the factory top-end stuff on there.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

Here's a Pic of the Distributor. The Gear has just a touch of wear on it. Looks like it still has plenty of life left. The shaft is still dirty. sorry about that. The wires and connector are in tact with no bare wires or pulls. Pictured is how i will send it. Nice and tight in the box my new distributor came in. all i ask is that you give me a trade rating for my effort. If you're interested, PM me and i'll find out what the shipping is.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Looks good, that gear is fine to run like that? I think it should be fine, doesnt look bad. I would be more than happy to give you an iTrader rating, I just don't know how to do that, I only get them when I recieve them from other people, lol.

PM'd.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

While were on the subject of intake swapping and stuff, will these gaskets work?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-1204/

Theres like 94 different gaskets for the same motor.. lol

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, that should work fine. I think that when you get the kit there will be two different sizes of end gaskets, but most people just use silicone instead of the gasket on the ends. I know that when i replaced the intake on my old truck, i used the rubber seal.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Allright, cool.

Turns out, my buddy has a stock intake from an 80's El camino that I can have. If it works, it works, if not I will be PMing five7, lol.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

PM'd ya on this.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

I have this carburetor from my old 84 T/A, it worked perfectly when I took it off, but that was about a year and a half ago, and its been sitting ever since.

This is the correct carburetor for my current engine, but I would imagine it would have to be rebuilt, but I have never rebuilt a carb before. I looked up the rebuild kits at autozone, and they're only about $22 but I am not sure that I would want to take on the challenge. Here are some pics, does it look like it would need a full rebuild or just a good cleaning? Also whats the orange zip-tie holding down? I think its keeping the choke open or something...









Thoughts?

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

It's always good to freshen up a carb with a rebuild kit, but you have to be careful. I bought a Holley at the junkyard recently and it looked like it would run just fine, but i decided to rebuild it anyway for good measure. Good thing i did. Look at this link:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...60-fiasco.html

DoubleV

Your choke is missing. You'd need to get one along with the proper linkage. Should be very easy to find.

I'd just run it as is ( with choke ) and run some gumout through it once it's running.

DoubleV

Also...is only one of your air/fuel mixture screws accessible? If so, I'd knock the cap off the other one while you got the carb off.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

I ran this carb on my old daily driver just like this and never had any problems. I always figured the choke was kept open or missing alltogether, but it never bothered me. I think both air/fuel screws were drilled out to be accessed.

I am not sure I could rebuild the carb, I have never tried before...

DoubleV

How could your car had run properly without a choke? Did you ever directly compair it with a properly functioning choke? I have never personally witnessed any non-choked carb run equal to a choked carb ever. I don't even know how it's possible. I would put it back on, but it's your car not mine.

tajoe

iTrader: (1)

you'ld never even get a cold engine "started" up here in NewEngland with that choke blade out, never mind run properly. maybe things are different in fla.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

It was my daily driver, started up the first time, every time. Never gave me any issues at all, when it was a bit colder outside it had to warm up, but after 2 minutes it was ready to go without hesitation. I am not the one to remove the choke, though.. It was like that when I got it.

Apeiron

I've never seen a car without a choke run the same as one with a choke either. They always run faster.

There's no problem starting a car without a choke in cold weather when you know what you're doing. You can even keep it running afterwards if you know how to nurse it constantly for the next 20 minutes until it warms up. I'd much rather just set the choke, start it up, and be driving away within 30 seconds though.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

I guess I know what I'm doing, lol. Either way, this is what I have to work with, so do you think I can get away with a good cleaning, or am I destined for a rebuild?

Apeiron

Florida doesn't have cold enough weather to test your skills.

A good cleaning is a rebuild.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Which means I should buy this:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...608_26590_6315_

and that would be "cleaning" it?

Do you reccomend that I attempt to reuild it myself? I have never done it before, I would rather just spray it down with carb cleaner, or get one that doesn't need a rebuild..

Apeiron

If that kit matches the P/N stamped in your carb, then yes.

Doesn't matter if you've never rebuilt one before, there's a first time for everything.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

That is certainly true, and I am usually that way with everything. I just don't want to do anything irreparable.

What else will I need to under-go this carb rebuild? I may start tomorrow, lol...

Apeiron

Enough dipping-type carburetor cleaner to fill a metal pail big enough to soak it in, a can or two of spray carb cleaner, basic hand tools, a clean work space, and the ability to follow detailed directions.

You could get a new float too. Rebuild kits don't usually come with them.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Just watched a slew of youtube vids to just see what I was up against, and I think I can get it done. They also recommended getting a new float, so I probably will. I will try to get everything I need tomorrow, and get this thing done!

Thanks.

tajoe

iTrader: (1)

sounds like a contradition reply. Try starting that carb in 5 degree weather, when your entire car is frozen in ice, and keep it running without wearing out your accellerator pump. i'ld rather be inside, where it's warm, drinking coffee, while the choke(with blade) does all the work. Once again tho, if you're living near the equator, where 58 degrees is considered cold, i guess you could remove it and benefit from the removal of all that excess weight.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Coldest its been here lately is 32 degrees, and that didnt last very long, so I am allright without a choke.

Anyway, I got a can of Chem-Dip, some carb spray and a rebuild kit and went ahead and tackled this project today. It came apart pretty easily and went back together pretty easily as well. So I guess I have rebuilt my first carburetor, though it is still un-tested my hopes are high. For the hell of it, heres a pic:

shep236

on the subject of no choke my 84 dodge ram pick up plow truck has an auto choke that dosent work, its always cold up in here in NY seeing how its winter, an i can start my plow truck with relative ease with no choke, i gotta get a choke conversion kit, would make it easier to start but its by no means impossible without a choke, as stated befor gotta no what your doing

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I am not too worried about the choke..

I am wondering what a complete parts list I will need in order to put my factory intake, carb, and distributor in...

I will need:
-Stock Intake Manifold
-New Intake Gaskets
-Sealant
-Stock Distributor
-Distributor Base Gasket
-Stock Carburetor and new gaskets
-EGR thing
-EGR Vacuum Solenoid (Does the stock system have one?)
-Factory Throttle cable/TV cable Bracket
-Factory Throttle cable Return Spring
-Factory Air Cleaner assembly

Will I need ANYTHING else?

White'89

iTrader: (8)

If I were you I would have kept the streetfire distributor. I have fixed many timing issues for people by buying a streetfire HEI. My neighbor bought a jeep with a 400sbc in it and these people had an msd box wired to an Accel HEI and it ran like poo. Ripped out the ignition box and dizzy and installed a streetfire and that thing ran like SOB.

You just need to put a timing light on it and adjust the vacuum advance with the little allen head screw thats inside the vacuum port on the dizzy. Once its right your golden, but I do agree with you on going back to the qjet. And whether or not you need a choke is up to you, some people have the gift and some don't.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Its not as much of a matter of removing the aftermarket parts, as it is a matter of putting the stock parts back on. I actually have a good respect for the Streetfire distributor, as it seemed to work miracles on my old 357. I like it when things don't feel botched together, and this engine seems a bit Mickey-mouse to me, which I don't like. The P.O. had no business touching a motor, let's put it that way.. lol