weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

So here's the 411... I'd like to attempt to rebuild this carb and was wondering if you guys would follow along and help me out with my questions..... Before anyone asks.... YES... I've searched and read through some of the previous posts.... I'm using NAF's write up ( https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...-ccc-qjet.html ) as a guide but I'm still gonna have questions, so hopefully you guys will help... Heres what I'm starting with...



The only thing I've done so far is install the booster pump check ball and retaining screw (used punch to seat check ball) ... Next I'd like to install the seat but I'm already stuck... So i have a few questions.... (look at pic for reference)...



I have 2 kits... 3 seats... The middle one is the one i took out of the carb.... The carb has probably already been rebuilt, since the IAB cover was already removed... So I'm not sure about the seat that i took out... As i mentioned, the middle is the original... The one on the left is similar minus the slots on the sides and the one on the right is way different... It doesn't even allow the use of the needle. So which here are my questions...

1). What carb uses the one on the right?
2). Whats the difference between the one i took out and the one on the left? (as far as why the middle one has slots in it)
3.) Which do i use?

2nd order of business.... The part of the carb that has the MCS connector.... The black reservoir or whatever it's called... Does fuel go into it? Cause a little piece cracked off.... Look at pic... Can i glue the piece back on?

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

I just decided to go with the seat on the left... So i set the float... Now im messing with the MCS.... Now I'm either doing something wrong, but no matter whether i set the lean stop screw at the original number where it was set, which was 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated or if i set it to 4 turns out.... I get the same amount of travel... Which is only 3/32... Hows that possible... What am I doing wrong?.... Now im back at the beginning... Had to back track... Im stuck.

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

So apparently the so called seat on the right is a rotory inlet valve... So do i use a normal seat with the needle or do i use the rotary valve? I guess that i have no rich stop screw either.... Stupid carb.

naf

iTrader: (7)

If the new seat is the same dimensions as the one you took out it should be OK. You can always re-use your old seat if you're unsure though.

Which two kits did you get?

Show a pic of your airhorn. It's been a long time since I've messed with the front inlets.

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

I just went with the seat on the left.... 2 kits... First is a GP Sorensen Kit part number 96-566A.. The other is a Fuel Systems, Tomko (TI) Inc (5495 B)... That one my uncle bought a while ago, so im not sure how old it is... Heres 2 pics of the air horn...

100_2304.jpg?t=1285027381

100_2306.jpg?t=1285027382

As you can see on this pic, where the rich mixture screw would be accessed is not drilled out... As i stated before that its probably already been rebuilt, it would have been removed had it been necessary... At least thats my assumption...

100_2310.jpg?t=1285027452

Also in the next pic, you can see that the lean stop screw has an extra piece that extends over the solenoid plunger, which in your write up it was different... Thats why i was unsure...

100_2311.jpg?t=1285027453

So far I've installed the needle and seat..... Set the float to 11/32... Installed the MCS assembly and TPS as well as the 2 seals and retainers in the airhorn... I have the Accelerator pump ready to go as well.... I also installed the seals for choke... One in the housing and one in the main body... When they say install with lip facing out im unsure which side they mean.... Look at this pic.... If they say lip facing out this is how i installed it.... Look about right?

100_2314.jpg?t=1285028493
So is there anything I've missed to this point with the assembly?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Your older carb doesn't have the rich stop set screw. The travel is limited by the extra piece on the MCS. Just set the MCS back to the original position and you'll be fine.

Everything else looks good.

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

Cool.. Thanks. One kit said 3 1/2 one said 3, so I set the Lean Mixture screw at 3, which is closer to what the screw was at originally. Now i need help with the external adjustments on the linkages... Is the secondary lockout lever just supposed to hang there? It must have fallen off when i was taking the carb apart and i didnt pay attention to how it sat originally.

As far as the external linkages... I'm looking at both rebuild kit sheets. The adjustment for the Choke coil lever is the same... So I followed that and made a .120 gauge and there was no adjustment required there....

Now I'm not sure what to do next... One kit says fast idle cam (choke rod) adjustment... The other kit says choke rod adjustment then fast idle setting.. Not sure what to do here... Both say the same for the choke rod adjustment, but then i get confused... The instructions say to adjust the fast idle on the high step of the cam then 3 additional turns.... So my question is...

If the Choke rod is adjusted on the second step of the cam to the specs (14 Degrees to be exact), then i set the fast idle on the high cam, wont my original adjustment on the choke rod change? I assume that if it moves the cam then the adjustment i made on the second step for the choke rod wouldnt be the same then id have to set it again. Wouldn't i do the fast idle adjustment first then the choke rod adjustment? Maybe im making this more complicated then it should be, but thats my understanding.

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

So i have the cam follower on the second step next to the high step. Have a rubber band on the lever tang to hold the choke valve closed.

Am i supposed to have so much movement in the choke plates? Cause if i push down on the front of the choke its closed and if i push on the back it opens up to the exact amount that i need,14 degrees. Is that gonna work or not?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Check out the sticky for choke adjustments (near the end):

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...e-rebuild.html

Play in the linkage is normal. When the motor's running the airflow will be trying to force the choke open so make your measurements from that end. So you're good.

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks... Well if thats the case then I think I'm done. Most every measurement was made between the airhorn and the choke plates... I just pushed on the plate slightly to remove the freeplay (Basically acting as if airflow was pushing the plates open) and made my measurements and adjustments.... Now on to making sure the vacuum lines are in good condition and routed properly.

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

Got a question. Upon cold start i hit the gas, the choke closes and the throttle is on the high step of the fast idle. After its warmed up when i hit the throttle it should completely come of the fast idle. It doesnt. When its at operating temp i pull the throttle back and set it on the high step with my finger... Then i blip the throttle but it doesnt come of the high cam... Why is this happening?

I would figure especially when its warm if i set it on the high step and hit the throttle, theres nothing restricting it from falling of the cam and running at curb idle.. What the issue here?

naf

iTrader: (7)

The weight of the cam should cause it to fall off of the fast idle step when the choke is closed. Make sure it falls freely, isn't gummed up and nothing is binding and/or holding it back. This is with the choke completely open.

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

Im not sure as to what exactly is going on. If the engine is not running i can put the throttle on the high step, pull the choke open, hit the throttle and the cam falls freely with no hesitation.

Now when the engine is running, throttle on the high step, choke open, i hit the throttle and the cam doesn't even budge. I'm lost.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Make sure the choke pull off is not interfering in some way.