spiffiestpengui

my choke went out a while ago, and i got a used carb from a guy who builds them, he told me to take the choke thermostat off the one he gave me and use it on mine. i put it on, and it still didn't work. the choke snaps on as soon as i hit the gas, and doesn't shut off after the car heats up. i had it wired shut for the longest time, i just rebuilt this carb (first time ever for me) and i want to get it all working again. no more bailing wire or any of that stupid stuff. the directions that came with the rebuild kit say there is supposed to be a notch that i line up with a 2 o'clock position. mine doesnt have anything like that. I also heard you have to spring load it, then i heard you dont, then i heard the choke plate has to be closed when you install it or it wont work..then i heard it has to be open i don't know who to listen to anymore. I just want this to work (oh yeah, when i have the wire plugged to the choke, inside the car the choke light stays on and buzzes the entire time im driving, and i already tested the wire for voltage)

RazorN8

So you have voltage to the wire that goes on the choke thermostat? Just to be sure, that is a single green wire with some sort of connector at the end right? The light inside the car should go off as soon as the wire is hooked up to the thermostat even if the thermostat is not adjusted correctly. The way I always adjust the thermostat when I rebuild a carb is to put the thermostat into the bowl thing such that the little square tab goes into the square hole at the end of the thermostat coil (hard to explain I guess but extremely easy to do). The turn the thermostat until the choke plate just closes. You should notice a feeling like something just dropped into a detent. Even if you don't feel it, you will notice a notch in the plastic thermostat plate that is lining up with one of 5 spikes on the thermostat aluminum bowl. Line this notch up with the largest spike in the center. this will be close enough to tweak in later. Lock it down and you are good to go.
This doesn't seem like your problem though. Try to figure out why that light is on. There is something electrical that is not hooked up right.

Auggie

You didn't by chance install a gasket under the stat housing?

Auggie

spiffiestpengui

yeah it's weird, when i got the car the wire was un plugged (and actually mines an orange wire, with the connecter) and as soon as i plugged it in is when the buzzer came on. its not on if its not plugged in i don't know why. I'll check again tomorrow for the little notches, its on the car right now, and it starts and runs, but the choke still wont turn off and the car smells like a gas station right now...i didnt put a gasket under it, i was reading about that and i thought it was only for the heat vacuum ones, but the old one i took off didnt have a gasket either and it worked fine for a while..

Auggie

Spiff, how about you take a jumper wire and connect it to the posative post of the battery and the other end to the thermostat housing (key off) on the choke. The choke plate should start to open and be fully open after around 4 or 5 min's.

Auggie

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

When the choke wire is shorted to ground, the buzzer will go off. Probably means your thermostat is shorted somehow.

If it's shorted, running a jumper wire directly from the battery is not a good idea. And, if it was shorted, it probably blew the fuse.

Auggie

I guess I should of said to first disconnect the wire from the choke stat then run a jumper wire from the batt. I do this test all the time even on the bench. Sorry about that.

Auggie

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If the choke thermostat is shorted, you don't want to hook up a jumper wire to it from the battery, even if the car's choke wire is disconnected first.

Auggie

How does that coil become shorted??

Auggie