ymenic

iTrader: (1)

My car is a 1982 Camaro z28 350 bored .30 over, I have a 750 cfm carter carb. The car havn't been on the road since 2002, so anything could be wrong with it. When I hook the battery cable up the wrong way, I burnt the capacitor wires to the ignition module. I had the car running good at a good idle but I was burning blueish/gray smoke. I was adjusting the mixture screws on the carb and this is where everything went wrong. I would get the car to run perfect but come back the next day and can't get it back to where I was without adjusting something. I took of the carb and rebuilt it, I also took the whole distributor off and taped the wires that went to the ignition module. I finished the rebuilt and put the carb back on and found TBC and put the distributor back in. I fired the car up and backfired a little. I adjusted the distributor, then I got a white puff/ mist of gas coming out of the carb. I got the car started but it would only run at 2500 rpm+ if I drop it any lower it will sputter and died, then it would take 3 mins to get it to run again. Once I got it to run there would be that cloud of smoke. When I got it to run I plugged the vacuum gauge. It was staying steady but I gave it more throttle it would drop to zero or go down half way doqn and vacuum would increase a little after it dropped. When I tried to make it idle the vacuum would decrease and just die and sputter and shot that mist out. I order and new carb 1806 edelbrock, hoping this would fix my problem, I also just went to autozone and bought 10 feet of vacuum hose and new fuel filter and fuel line hose to re-hose everything up. I also bought a new capacitor wiring for the distributor/ignition module. If I still have the problem, I'll go get the ignition module tested. Anyone have any advice maybe I do something wrong. I was also thinking a bad vacuum leak in the carb maybe between the gasket. Anyone have any advice?

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

pull all the spark plugs, if they are black i'd replace them. while the plugs are out run a compression test. they should be at min 125psi but most importantly they should all be close to the same. next the edelbrock carb works best at no more than 5psi fuel pressure. then make absolutly sure the distributor is timed properly. get the #1 on TDC then with the distributor fully seated the rotor should be pointing 4-5 o'clock. once everything is correct set the timing to spec (stock cam) then adjust the idle mixture. get the engine hot,(running) set parking brake, chock wheel etc. put trans in gear(auto trans) be careful!!! install vacuum gauge (passenger side/ lower port on edelbrock) adjust screws until max vacuum is obtained then go 1/2 turn richer. hope this helps

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

How do you check the fuel pressure with a mechanical pump? I know when I took my number spark plug out it was black. They are brand new so I guess I'll buy a new set. It's also a 4 speed manual.

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

yeah replace those plugs but make sure the fuel pressure is right first. to check fuel pressure you'll need to T in to the fuel line with a gauge between the pump and carb.

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

Okay, what if the fuel pressure is off, How do I adjust it? or will I need to buy a new fuel pump or is there a regulator?

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

holley makes an inline regulator (about $35). it has 1 inlet and 2 outlets. so you can connect your gauge to the other outlet. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-12-803/

SLEEPER 86

do you have a timing light? timing should be between 10-12* advanced at 800rpm. if your ignition module is blown, it probably won't even start. backfires through the carb are usually (though not always) timing related.

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

I got my new carb and put that on and replaced the wire to the ignition module. The car start right up where I had it before. I do have a timing light but with the AC there is to hard to see the mark, so I just turn the timing counter clockwise intill I got the best vacuum. I found that the needle flickers and when giving throttle it will drop to zero then to about 50 then back to 30 after off throttle. I also have white or blueish smoking coming from my exhaust and smoking coming up from the oil breather on the passenger side of the car.I was thinking maybe it blowby. I have the PCV valve on the driver side, but I'm thinking about making them both a PCV valve and connecting them both to the front of the carb. There is also a good amount of white smoke coming from the passenger side of the car right below exhaust manifold. It don't look like it coming from under the head, but IDk. I thinking I'm going to buy a compression test and test the compression on the passenger and the driver side. I keep on forgetting to check if it's a 350 but the old man I talk to daily is 100% sure. I think once I get about 200 bucks extra I'll buy a new gasket set and take the heads off and replace the gaskets and get the heads to the machine shop. I will also but new head bolts. Anyone have any ideas for headbolts or gaskets? Has anyone taken the head off without taking the motor out? Can I also get my 3/8 torque wrench in there?

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

I did have a vacuum leak in the carb that why it would run at high rpm then low because the vacuum is greater New carb did the trick.