jamon8

iTrader: (3)

I soaked the **** out of it and then blasted it w/preasure washer

the outer green coating came completly off

made sure it was super dry and sprayed some ceramic engine paint on it lightly

what do you think

steeljab

iTrader: (3)

pics?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That "green coating" is (was) Teflon.

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

I also used a little etch primer to make the paint really stick w/ the acid in the etch

my batteries are junk but they do make more so expect pics soon

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

You masked off all the little holes and whatnot? Did you disassemble it first? Weird, I can't picture this at all. Lets see how it looks.

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

I am trying to cool the fuel

I am thinking of running my fuel line to a trans cooler

I am running a very lean mixture without burning up the plugs

black magic!!!

oh yeah I did not get a ton of paint in the little holes.
I just glanced over them and hit the sides and bottom of the carb real hard to reduce heat.

one thing you have to do if you are going to paint like this is remove the paint on the edges of the throttle plates and the bores

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

?!? I think cool fuel doesn't atomize as well, and therefore causes more problems than it's worth.
Didn't smokey yunick do some wacky stuff by HEATING the fuel, to help it atomize better, and got more power and economy? I think he did a strange custom setup in a Fiero, once upon a time ago...
I think keeping the air cool is a better bet.

Either way, the carb looks very nice.

I'm thinking the black paint will just cause it to hold in more heat though, same way you ceramic coat headers and it keeps the heat in. The carb gets it's heat from the intake manifold. If you want to keep the carb cool, use a phenolic spacer.

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

oh yeah a little tip

the primary jets for the quadrajet are way to big

3-5mpg without burning up plugs- get one size smaller jets and use the same metering rods

adjust your power valve stop down 1.5 turns

if you get a little surge when ildeing around town you are not hurting anything except the gas companies. if you cant stand the surge go back 3/4 of a turn

by the way the surge is slight my girl cant even feel it

I feel everything when I drive but ever since I started the black magic I would rather not feel it in my pockets. damn gas companies

use a cooler sparkplug, also and adjust the idle blead screws in as far as you can without making the motor choke

now for the power we all want during wot

take out the secondary hanger and bend the angles up just a hair and I mean just a hair like 1/16th of an inch

if your coil and ign system is weak do not do this because you will flood it

also do not I repeat DO NOT do any of this on a weak engine. it will not last long. for some reason an engine that has been running rich its whole life does not take to this kind of tune well

a good set of rings cast or moly and some fresh cut valves stainless or stock is the only way this will hold up

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

warm fuel burns quicker-physics

a steak that has been sitting on the counter for 2 hours cooks faster than one in the freezer

sonix I dont think I explained myself

cooler fuel takes longer to burn so you need less of it to make an explosion which is good for around town driving without burning up your plugs and causing detonation.

the reason the carb is black is I do not like a dirty motor and carbs get nasty looking

I started to use aluminum paint

black on the motor, headers, valve covers makes my life easier.

I do like to paint the intake silver

ok I just got finished with a little wakey bakey so I dont want to think anymore. its time to finish putting some tape on the blazer so I can paint it one of these months

peace and axel grease

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

by the way I am the authority on not a darn thing

I make at least one mistake every day. the day I dont will be the day I sleep through the day.

sonix I think you are right about the black paint holding in heat and I saw the fiero show and have no idea how they did it because I could not take it apart and analyze

I just know that the old school drag racers used a cool can and a powerful spark to make more power

I just tried to put two and two together to make 14967 send cool fuel to a powerful spark and it will burn long enough to curb detionation

I could be wrong it has been known to happen that is why I share my hairbrained ideas

the quadrajet atomizes the fuel better than any of the other carbs I have delt with that is why I am selling anything but

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Black color absorbs heat. White reflects it.

Ceramic coating reflects heat. I don't recall seeing any data about ceramic paint heat transfer coefficients.

The green coating was Teflon to prevent sticky mechanisms. Ditto no data about ceramic paint tribology.

Smokey Yunick sent the fuel/air mixture through a turbine, then through a heat exchanger that used exhaust heat to further heat the mixture. He claimed the turbo was only there to provide a "check valve" effect to keep the air/fuel being heated by the exhaust moving in the right direction. He claimed the expansion from being heated provided the pressurization into the cylinder, and completely vaporized and mixed the fuel in the air. Nothing you couldn't find in a high school physics textbook, he said. His 2.5l 4 cyl Fiero made 255 HP and got something like 35 MPG. He had to use hardened intake valves due to the extra heat. He also said the key to the power and economy, and what took him the longest to get right, was the cam.

Of course, none of that has anything to do with painting a q-jet black. . .

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

second thought- maybe it sould have stayed silver

I have sprayed the bowl and left fuel in there without problems

dirtywhiteZ28

I saw that show with Smokeys Feiro and thought it was a cool idea. I also saw another show that was produced later that season and the guys admitted that they had edited out the part where the Feiro caught on fire and had significant damage while still on the Dyno, but they had enough tape already to produce the show.

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

couple of tips

dont paint the accelerator pump housing

dont bake the lid of the carburator

dirtywhiteZ28

Ahh, what the heck, there has been a bit of a debate lately in the drag tech magazine as to wether polishing parts or chroming them causes heat "retention". If a part is painted black and exposed to sunlight, I would expect it to absorb heat faster and to a greater degree than any other color, but the carb is rarley in the sun light. The thinking in the tech lines seems to ponder that black coatings tend to dissapate heat better than polishing and chome when in the absence of sun light. I also think that the greenish hue of the factory carb comes more from the Di-chromatic finish that was applied to thwart the formation of corrosion and that Teflon was then applied over that. As far as I know Teflon is actually colorless unless its mixed with another material such as graphite or carbon.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Teflon can be most any color, but the green parts of a q-jet are green from the Teflon coating.

Heat isn't dependent upon the visible light spectrum. Engine heat is engine heat, and black will absorb it more quickly than white. It will be released into the fuel and air stream, which are the fluids being resupplied. Polished or chrome really isn't in play here.

dirtywhiteZ28

I wasn't pointing at mere visible light so much as sunlight which carries its share of radient heat. That would be a bigger issue on hot rods with open area compartments like the '20s and '30s crowd or someone who cut a big hole out for a big blower and high hat. Like I said it's just some of the back and forth industry banter, I think I even saw it mentioned somewhere in the last summit catalog description for a couple of parts that were powder coated black, anything to sell parts, just in case it made a difference to a potential customer.
I think that having paint on surfaces that were intended to be mated together with a gasket are going to be a real issue here, doesn't matter how well you bake that stuff, put the sqeeze to it and it will want to stick to the gasket in some places instead of the metal, and when you take it apart for what ever reason you will be left with a mess that will need extra attention before reassembly.

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

already took it apart on my 69 C-10 to scrape the accelerator pump housing with no issue

I get no vapor lock or hard starts in the heat and the carb is no super hot to the touch

I am not telling anyone to do what I have done just trying to share ideas