vanilla62

I just bought everything I need to install an Edelbrock 1403 carb over my stock 305 that is computer controlled. I have the cruise control kit, idle compensator, kickdown brackets and open air cleaner assembly. Now, I just found out that since the old carburetor and distributor was controlled by the computer, that I will need a vacuum advance distributor. Is this really true? What would happen if I was to try to start my engine with the new Edelbrock with the computer controlled distributor? VERY bad things or will it just run like crap? Is removing and installing a vacuum advance distributor difficult? I've done basic mechnical things in the past like installing radiators, retrofiitting A/C to r134, tune-ups, brakes.
Also, one last thing. I have automatic transmission. I'm not sure if it's a 200 or 700r4. Will that still be ok with the computer, a vaccum advance distributor installed, and the Edelbrock carburetor??? AHhhhh! Please help carb guys!!!!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Okay, here's my first recommendation: Take everything that you just bought back and get your money back. You're downgrading your car, and it just doesn't make sense to spend money to do that.

Now, having said that, and assuming you will ignore the advice in Paragraph #1 above - Yes it is true. Mostly. Will it run with the CC distributor? Yes. Will it run well? No. Can it be done for a purpose-specific car? Yes, that purpose being a dedicated race car. I suspect you don't have a race-specific car.

It has been suggested by Board members that you can use a non-CC carb with everything else CC. To do that, you need to provide the computer with throttle position data. In a thread a few months ago, a link was provided for hooking up an external TPS (don't even ask if you can use the stock TPS). However, to date, no one has reported that they have successfully accomplished this feat. I am considering it to go along with a spreadbore Holley double pumper carb to make the car more consistent in bracket racing while maintaining street/daily-driver manners. So far, all I've got is the carb, I haven't pursued getting the rest of it.

The automatic offered in 1982 was the TH200C. You will need to provide some means of locking up the torque converter, because the computer won't do it after going non-CC (unless you do the remote TPS thing).

Installing the distributor isn't very difficult. Disconnect the wires, remove the cap, note the position of the rotor, remove the distributor, install the non-CC distributor so the rotor is in the same position, reinstall cap & wires, set timing, provide a vacuum source to the vacuum advance. Do you have a timing light?

Having said all that, let's start asking the questions that need answering in order to properly respond to your questions: Why are you putting on the Edelbrock carb? Is there something wrong with your factory carb? Did you think an aftermarket carb would make your car more powerful? Do you know the Edelbrock carb will not bolt to the factory intake manifold? Frankly, the Edlelbrock is about the worst possible choice to replace the factory q-jet. You'll have more power potential with the factory q-jet, fuel economy will be better with the factory q-jet. The power problems with a stock 305 have absolutely nothing to do with the factory q-jet (the single snorkel air cleaner not being considered a part of the factory q-jet, by the way). You can/have to do a lot of things to a 305 before the factory q-jet becomes a limiting factor. As you can see from my sig, you can even go 350 and still not need to replace the factory q-jet (I already said why I am considering it - I don't expect the change to make the car faster). If your q-jet is absolutely FUBAR, then it makes more sense to find a rebuildable used or rebuilt to replace it than to put on an aftermarket carb (least of all the Edelbrock).

I'm sure that is a lot more than you expected to see, and certainly a lot of what you didn't expect to see, but I'd rather teach a man to fish than give him one.

vanilla62

Wow, that was extremely helpful thank you so much! I am so happy that I found this website to ask this question. On the other hand I'm just disappointed. I've got sooooo many Edelbrock parts laying around for the installation. I was so excited about installing it this weekend, but I don't think I want to hurt it. Yes, all I was trying to do was gain some horsepower. The stock Qjet is 25 yrs old. I thought in the beginning I might as well go Edelbrock than getting it rebuilt, you know. So, the stock is not FUBAR, just aged. After hearing all that useful info, I'm going to send everything back and simply get a rebuilt Rochester CC qjet and not have to go through all that BS. And then, I'll just use that money for some FLOWMASTER! Thanks so much!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I went back and edited errors with regard to the transmission (I thought you had an '84). I hope you have reread to see the corrections.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Also, go to the FAQ forum and look for a thread that talks about the differences between 305's and how to improve power. Everything applies to a 350 if you decide to go that way in the future.

And, rebuilding the q-jet isn't that difficult. A $30 kit, some dip-type carb cleaner, something blow out passages after soaking (either an air compressor, or some spray carb cleaner), a digital multimeter to set the TPS and a dwell meter to set the MCS (which you would have to do with a rebuilt carb as well).

84L69TA

I dont know if you should be doing that either. Flowmaster mufflers are garbage as well, are very restrictive, and sound like crap.

Quasi-Traction

I'm all for ditching the EPA regulated controls on Third Gen's (CCC carbs, O2 sensors, TPS...etc....) The CCC Q-jet can yield great economy when tuned right, no doubt about that. I've rebult a non CC Q-jet and and CCC Q-jet and I have to say the CCC Q-jet is much simpler. If You're more of the "simpleton" who perfers the emisson delete you should get rid of those hidious block hugger manifolds, the factory Y-pipe (which is more like a T-pipe) and the AIR injection system (which goes to the factory smog pump...)....I don't know much about the Edlebrock 1403...but the 1406... (600 CFM) is a great carb for both a 305 and a 350....if tuned right it can yield excellent results with a factory motor with headers. Above anything I reccoment a better Y-pipe and headers and a non CCC Carb. That should put an ordinary LG4 pretty close to what the L69 Factory specs were, even if its high mileage.

Good luck man! you can push 200hp/260 ft/lbs with that otherwise wimpy LG4 before you have to do internal mods. Even on a high mileage motor.

just something to consider.