maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

i have searched for over an hour and i still have a couple questions. basically all the wires entering the engine bay from the passenger side can be removed correct? but what about the a/c and alt. wires? i know there is a sensor the plugs into the alt. do i need to keep that? also all the wires that go to the starter need to stay as well right?

1.) i guess the best guestion is what needs to be kept from the tpi wiring coming from the passenger side of the engine bay.

2.) what vaccume lines need to go to the intake?

3.) is there a bracket that i can get for the cruise control to work with a holley carb?

4.) what do i need to do with my fuel pump. ive read i need to rewire it to come on if i take the computer out. is that true, how should i go about doing that?

5.) what sending units in the engine bay need to be kept to insure that all my gauges work. and where are they located.

ZZ4 86 Z28

iTrader: (1)

the only wires i removed were hooked up to injectors and sensors. i kept all the other stuff there. for example, fans, fuel pump, etc. i left the comp in for those as well. theres a lot of wires goin around that you still need for basic electric operations, like lights, gauges, etc that have nothin to do with the motor. i dno where the sending units are for the gauges but i didnt remove any. i didnt hook up any vaccum lines to the manifold, all plugs, and i only hooked one to the back of the carb, im retty sure for the brake booster. i dont have cruise control, but i imagine you would have to find some sort of seperate bracket for that. like i said i left the feul pump wired to the computer, i tried without it, but its weird. and wiring it straight to the power would put a lot of stress on it. i would leave the computer in, even if you could sell it. mine is brand new with a brand new chip and i was gonna sell it but i realized wat a pain it would be to get it completly bypassed so i jst left it in...as did my friend. i think thats all. good luck.

poormansvette

I've switched from 350 TPI to carb, and I'm almost done with my wiring. My best advise is to go and get a 1988 GM service manual(not Chiltons or whatever)- its a must for what your doing. There are places that sell it for $90- I just borrow mine from the library. On my car I did all my own gauges, electric external fuel pump and relay, cooling fan switches and relays, low oil warning light, etc. I would rather create my own wiring than try and deal with the facory's wacky setup.

1) Not sure for your setup but check schematic for the bulkhead connector C207(14 pin connector at pass. side). Its everything the computer controls or monitors- I used none of it.

2) Brake booster, pcv(recommended), vent controls in dash(I'm still working on this- I think I might need a vacuum tank), cruise control(If at all possible)

3) ?

4) There is a lot of threads on that- I personally would never use an in-tank pump for carb.

5) I'm not sure on all of that- again I did my own all mechanical

I reused the alternator wires except the little tan/white wire in the 2 pin connector(it goes to the coolant fan relay). As for the a/c wires, I don't have a/c anymore so I just used the blower motor wires and the vacuum lines. All the wires that go to the starter are your power wires for a lot of different things- fuse block, lights, radio, etc. They go mostly to the other big connecor on the driver's side(C100) which is a whole other story. This wiring is a tough job, its driving me nuts.

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

first of all thank you guys for your help

as of now i have figured out what vacume lines go to the intake. it turns out our corvette and chevelle have the exact same intake as mine so i looked them over and i need a temp sensor in one and the rest are plugs. i also went to the store and got a couple nice looking mechanical gauges for my pillar pod. i got water temp and oil pressure gauges. they were 20 bux a piece and came with everything needed to hook them up. that was a hell of a deal considering my stock temp sensor was 62 bux to replace for the new intake... so i saved 20 bux by getting all new equipment.

1.) what i would really like to find out now is what can i do for the cruise control to work i would really like to get that to still work.

2.) why would you not run an intank pump? i know there are a lot of carb guys that run it with their setup. what all is involved in running an external one? you will have to drop the tank and remove the old one i assume right? i really dont think it will be a problem running the stock fuel pump i have heard people say they have been using it for years with no problems.

how could i wire the fuel pump to work without the computer? i wouldnt mind just hardwiring it and then have an inline switch so i can turn it off from inside the car. i heard to wire it you have to use a relay but i know almost nothing about relays so i would like some help there.

i think thats the only questions i have at the moment but thanks for the help guys

ZZ4 86 Z28

iTrader: (1)

i would just leave the computer in for now if i were you. worry about the wiring later. also, what about the fans if you take the computer out. and there were acouple other things that i cant remember right now.

TheMutt

the computer controls stuff like gauges and fans and all that? whoops.... heh heh anyone got one for sale then?

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

i have a buddy coming by today to look at the wiring and give me some tips on what to do he is pretty good with electrical stuff.

BigDreams92

iTrader: (1)

Power wire for the pump runs under the carpet, don't recall it's color right now. It is possible to run a hot wire from the battery to that wire with a switch. However, I do not advise it. IMO it is a much smarter choice to have it relayed off another event, such as oil pressure through the use of an oil pressure switch rather than something you have to control. More things to forget to turn off, and of-course in the event of an accident, your fuel pump would still be pumping fuel.

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

thanks for the info man. i had my buddy come by last night and help me with it. all the wiring was done right at the relay. so it is still the stock wiring system but now the pump comes on with the key as well as the fans.

darkage

I prefer jegs, but in doing my own TPI to carb research i found summit does have a bracket for cruise control, i don't have the part number but i'm sure you could find it also by searching HLY ... think i saw it looking for the kickdown bracket for OD trannies (700r4) HLY-20-121 ...

Question for ya about the computer and carb setup ....
Did you need to custom the prom or is it the stock ecm to control all but the motor functions ... i'm looking to do this the beginning of next month and trying to get as much info ASAP to make this plug an play ... and with you leaving the computer in to handle the basic features, do you know if this also allowed the clutch on the torque converter to lock up and unlock at stock setting .... i'd imagine the fool proof for me would just to run it to a switch and lock it up on the highway ... and did you find out about using the stock/intank pump with a regulater at the carb? ....

ZZ4 86 Z28

iTrader: (1)

im using the stock pump with the holley reg. and also, just leave the computer, it will do everything itself, cept maybe the fans...i think i cut that wire by accident though, not 100% sure. and you will not have tcc lockup, ive been fine without it though. good luck.

kyle folds

I would not have the fans running all the time, the motor won't last long then you have no cooling when needed.

stevesz-28

well i just went stock carb to edelbrock carb neways i just undid all the wires from passanger side from computer the only 3 wires i keep was for my 700r4 trans, the car started just fine but you prolly need the computer for your fuel pump if its in the tank

Abird4u2nv1

iTrader: (-1)

This isn't that hard, you can take the ENTIRE harness out of the passenger side, you don't need it at all. Just mark what wires from the driver harness went were before you starting messing around with them. But you only need to wire a few wires up for a carbed motor. the distributor(White goes to tach/pink goes to bat) Green for coolant temp, your oil pressure gauge wire should stay intact, fan you'll have to rig up somehow, either switched, or on all times, or you could wire up a fan switch to automatically turn them on at set temp. Alt wires are pretty self explanatory. Just pay attention to detail, and you'll be fine

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

im fine with the wirings now i mean i know what to take out and what to keep but i dont want to cut it up can i just pull the whole harness out without cuting it up? thats why i havent done anything with it yet.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Yes.

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

what is the best way to pull it? i wont have to take the fender off or anything will I? how do most people do it unplug it str8 from the comp and push it up through the firewall?

ceub

iTrader: (1)

Take the plastic lining out of the passenger side front wheel. You'll be able to see the connector there and can unplug it there.

cj

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

I have also searched hours and i've found a lot on tbi/tpi to carb swaps but nothing really for the v6 mpfi to carb v8, im assuming it'll be pretty much the same thing as what is posted in this thread?? Besides the fact that I need v8 springs, new tranny, and new fuel pump. Sorry to steal the thread, but I didn't want to make a whole new thread if the swap is being covered in this one.

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

thanks man i actually noticed it a little while ago when i was pulling my antenna out thanks for the help though.

Rick King

1.) i guess the best guestion is what needs to be kept from the tpi wiring coming from the passenger side of the engine bay.

I removed all the wiring to go with the Tpi, and switched it all over to old school hei, The only problenm I had was that the hot wire for the heater controls runs throught the tpi wiring, and the speedo dose not work.

2.) what vaccume lines need to go to the intake?

Keep the ones for the brake system, the egr if using it, and the pvc system.
I ditch all the emisions so I started over for vaccume lines.

3.) is there a bracket that i can get for the cruise control to work with a holley carb?

Yes summit sells them. try elie at ext 6761 or ext 5833, I have a crome one that will do cruse, but I do not use the cruse.

4.) what do i need to do with my fuel pump. ive read i need to rewire it to come on if i take the computer out. is that true, how should i go about doing that?

You will need to get a fuel pressure regulater that makes high presure into low pressure sutible for your carb, I got one from berry grant at Jeggs, also you will have to rewire your fuel pump if you remove everything like I did. I just toggled the system. There is a plug in for the eletrical pump back by the rear axel that is a good place to start.

5.) what sending units in the engine bay need to be kept to insure that all my gauges work. and where are they located.

Oil sender, back of the block, drivers side, temp sender mine was on the head drivers side, if you have eletric fans and do not want to toggle them there is a relay I believe on the passanger side of the motor.

thats all I know andmy switch over was from an 87 ta 350 tpi car
later and

gb

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

hey man do you remember how you wired the pump? also you wanna sell that bracket for the cruise? neither of those part #'s pulled anything up...

Rick King

I did the old trial and error method with a toggle switch. I ran new wires to the back end and used the factory plugin. There is 3 wires and i think I had to combine two of them for the pump to work. Mine is on a toggle like I said so I start it up and them turn on the pump and all seems to work great so far. The car is put away right now so I can't get to it for a pic or anything.
the bracket for the cruise is part of the system that is for the throtle and tranny that bolts down on a carb stud, so I can't sell you the setup. Maybe you can fab one or a locall can do it for you.

Later and

GB

rk