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Car won't idle below 1200 RPM and hard starting issues. Please help!!...

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Old 03-29-2006, 01:40 PM
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Car: 1988 Camaro(92 Z28 clone)
Engine: Forged 383, AFR 195 419/430@wheels
Transmission: Monster 700R4 Yank 3600 stall
Axle/Gears: 9in Detroit locker-3.90's,35 spline
Car won't idle below 1200 RPM and hard starting issues. Please help!!...

Well, I've been trying to get everything in order with the engine here, but it's not cooperating with me. For the last 3 days, I have been starting the car and letting it run for a few minutes. I'm getting anxious to start driving it, but it needs a few more things yet. Anyway, every time I go to start the engine up, I have to pump the gas a few times, let it crank for about 10 seconds till it starts to catch. Pump the gas a few more times, crank it some more, and then it'll start. It will run for about 5 seconds, then stall out unless I hold my foot on the gas. This will happen a few times, and then it will stay running. Only problem is that once it stays running, it will idle at about 1300 RPM. I have tried to turn the idle screw to bring the idle down to a reasonable RPM, but once I back the screw off about 1 turn, the engine shuts down. It is very disappointing. I'm using the Edlebrock Performer RPM package on my 350, and the cam is not that big(I .488 E .510 @ I 234* E 244*) so a 750-800 RPM idle shouldn't be that hard to get. Now, the very first time I started the engine(to break it in) something happened and it woudn't idle. So I adjusted the screw to keep it running. Found out later that the rockers arm nuts came loose, and the idle needed to be raised to keep it running. Anyway, I'm not sure about the hard starting issue. Isn't there supposed to be fuel pressure in between the pump and the carb after the car is shut off? It should hold pressure for some time after the engine is off, correct? Any thoughts/suggestion/opinions are very welcome. Thank you very much for your time, Paul Moore
Old 03-30-2006, 11:34 PM
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z28
Engine: 383 Vortec - carb
Transmission: T56 - 6speed
sound like you might have a vacuum leak. make sure that any ports that aren't being used on the carb are plugged first and if that is OK start looking around and the gaskets for the intake and carb.
Old 03-31-2006, 01:09 AM
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Car: 1988 Camaro(92 Z28 clone)
Engine: Forged 383, AFR 195 419/430@wheels
Transmission: Monster 700R4 Yank 3600 stall
Axle/Gears: 9in Detroit locker-3.90's,35 spline
Originally Posted by Hodge
sound like you might have a vacuum leak. make sure that any ports that aren't being used on the carb are plugged first and if that is OK start looking around and the gaskets for the intake and carb.
Well I did some more poking around and found out some info about the choke. My Edelbrock carb is a 750 CFM manual choke carb. Now, alot of people that I talked to said that I didn't need a choke because of the warm climate here in Florida. So as of right now, the choke is not hooked up. I started to play around with it, and I think that I am making progress. When I first looked at the carb, the choke plate was completely open, and I had the hard starting issue. Crank, crank, for about 15 seconds, and nothing. So then I go back and manually close the choke plate. The choke cam turns and hits againt the primary shaft cam, and opens the primaries a little. So I go back into the car and start it. WIthout my foot on the gas, it fires to about 300-350 RPM, and she stumbles really bad. I rush out the the engine compartment to try and raise the idle speed, and before I can get there the engine dies. I must have done that about 15 times!!! Anyway, every time I adjust the idle screw about 1/4 turn and retry the idle. Now my battery is dead from all the cranking no charging from the alt. So I charged my battery at work and well see if I can get it to work later on in the afternoon.
Old 03-31-2006, 03:29 PM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Either hook up a cable that you can operate from the passenger compartment, or put an electric choke on it.

"Warm Florida climate" is hardly an excuse to not have a choke. When the engine is cold, it needs a richer mixture to run properly regardless of the outside temperature. Sure, you need it more in colder climates, but if you don't need it, you're running too rich when the engine is warm.
Old 03-31-2006, 11:39 PM
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Car: 1988 Camaro(92 Z28 clone)
Engine: Forged 383, AFR 195 419/430@wheels
Transmission: Monster 700R4 Yank 3600 stall
Axle/Gears: 9in Detroit locker-3.90's,35 spline
five7kid: I am new to carburetors so I know most of the reason why things don't work are due to a lack of knowledge, but I want to change that! Every carbureted car that I have ever been in has never had a manual choke/choke cable. Now I understand that most of them had either electric chokes or some type of heat stove/element to operate it. Anyway, I think that I am going to run a cable because I am using one of those chromed hard steel lines with a Russel filter that Edelbrock makes, and it would interfere with the electric choke kit that they offer. Anything else that I would need to know that could help out? I think that I am taking a step in the right direction though, so hopefully progress will soon follow. Thanks for all the input!
Old 04-04-2006, 02:15 AM
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Car: 1988 Camaro(92 Z28 clone)
Engine: Forged 383, AFR 195 419/430@wheels
Transmission: Monster 700R4 Yank 3600 stall
Axle/Gears: 9in Detroit locker-3.90's,35 spline
Well, I got some parts from Jegs's today. I ordered a choke cable assembly and a bracket to mount it. I'm just waiting for my thermostat housing to come in. It's a long story that involves hood to air cleaner clearance due to a carb spacer that can't be removed because the air cleaner lid hits my 360* swivel filler neck/thermostat housing. I think that I might use one of those *blank* panels in the dash by the cigarette lighter or something to ount it so it doesn't look THAT out of place. I will post up a pic when I get it in.
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