naf

iTrader: (7)

Do the checks I outlined above when you get a chance.

Sounds like you may be dumping fuel through the carb secondaries, running excessively rich. If you suspect this to be the case, I'd recommend against running it full throttle as you may be washing the cylinders with excess fuel, promoting wear.

Your secondary rods and hanger are in place and working correctly? They go up as the airvalve is opened? Runs fine at part and medium throttle..no rich smell until you get on it?

camaroracer016

Ok will Do. It looks asif the hanger does move all that much. only smells rich at WOT. I was playing with the hanger, and noticed that it gets stuck up sometimes. hmm...

camaroracer016

Well I havent hooked up the dwell meter yet, but i do have a very nice professional scanner my brother got from his work. It shows all sensor readouts and the MCS dwell. Everything seems to be worknig fine. Any suggestions?

naf

iTrader: (7)

If your hanger is getting stuck up, that could be your problem. Have you fixed this? As the hanger comes up it pulls the rods out of the secondary orifices (jets) and allows more fuel into the mixture. If they're sticking up, too much fuel will be introduced into the mixture before the motor needs it.

camaroracer016

i think that maybe the secondary rods are slightly bent, towards the top where the hook onto the hanger. How do i go about making them straight? Also, i have a #1906 edelbrokck 750 cfm carb layin around. Should i maybe they teh rods and hanger off that?

naf

iTrader: (7)

The rods are supposed to have some funky bends in them near the top. If the hanger's sticking up it could be gunk around the cam. If the air valve is sticking open with them it could be a combination of gunk and too little spring tension. Carbs sitting quiet and undisturbed for long periods tend to grow gunk.

I'm not going to be the one to tell you to take the carb apart and clean (rebuild) it. You'll have to make that call yourself, but I would first try a liberal dose of carb cleaner around the secondary valve and hanger.

If they're truly bent you can't bend them back. If the edelbrock rods and hanger will fit, try them out.

I've got a spare set (or four) of LG4 rods/hangers if you'd like to try them before sinking any money in, PM me your address and I can send them to you Monday.

The scanner showing everything working correctly is good news.

camaroracer016

Alrite.. Ill pm you my address. thanks for all of your help! Hopefully i can get this fixed!

camaroracer016

Well i have a few more questions. Where exactly is the cam at? Does it go directly under the hanger? And another thing, how can i adjust spring tension. When i take the hanger and rods out, can i clean it out good in there? And is there anything else i should check while its apart? And could it be anything else? Im going to work on it today, decent weather, and im feeling a bit better. Thanks alot!

naf

iTrader: (7)

The cam is under the hanger, it's the piece that pushes the hanger up. There's a tech article here on adjusting AV spring tension. Just note that when you loosen the set screw the spring will unwind completely so you need to hold it in place as you loosen the screw, make an adjustment, then retighten the set screw. You'll see what I mean when you get there.

Clean everything good. If you decide to take the carb apart, get a can of carb cleaner, gallon can with basket you can drop the parts into. Parts store will know what you mean.

Read this first:

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/quadrajet.shtml

camaroracer016

Ok. I finally got my hands on it! I changed out the rods, and the hanger. The rods i put in are CE rods. Visually, i could tell a HUGE difference. The hanger was a P or an R, i cant remember. Well, after i did that, I warmed it up, smashed the gas, and it bogged pretty bad. So i was pondering, and i decided to play with this big screw on top the the carb, almost to the front of the carb. I think this is the IAB, am i correct? But anyways, I turned that out almost all the way ( about 1 turn from all the way out) And the bog was gone. But i still have a problem with the upper RPM range. Itl rev to 5000, then hesitate to rev anyhigher. Itl kinda fall down to 4500, then kinda up and down a lil bit, and the fumes are bad.. make your eyes burn, lol. Any ideas on this? I was reading about how to adjust the AV tension, but it seems kinda tricky. Know of any sites that have a guide, with pictures?

naf

iTrader: (7)

The IAB adjustment should be done with a dwell meter to achieve near 50% cycling of the mixture control solenoid at idle (in drive). If you changed it's setting and saw an improvement it's an indicator that it was not set properly before, or some of the electronics are not working. Either way it's not going to run right until it's properly set and everything works. Get a dwell meter and follow the basic steps I outlined above. You can do a search here for a ton of info on adjusting the ccc-qjet. Start with:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=328668

When this carb was placed on the 350 was it ever set up for it? Are the idle mixture screws (front bottom) exposed?

camaroracer016

Ok, Well my brother let me borrow his fancy dwell meter.. And i hooked it up, set it to the v6 scale, which someone on here told me to do, cant remmeber, And it was reading 29-31 after i played with the IAB a lil bit. If i set it to the V8 scale, it would read very low, max i got was 15. So, are these good readings?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Yes, read it on the V6 scale (0-60 degrees). When you made adjustments to the IAB, did the dwell change? A small change in IAB (about 1/8 turn) should cause the dwell to range until it settles near a setting, bouncing back and forth a few degrees.

If you've got it doing the above and reading 29-31 degrees at idle, you're set. Now see how the secondaries respond.

camaroracer016

ok great. I think the problem with the secondaries is the AV tension. Im afraid to play with this, i may mess it up. But ill give it a shot! Cant wait to drive it tomorrow!

naf

iTrader: (7)

You can't really mess it up. If the spring unwinds all the way, just wind it back and tighten the set screw to hold it in place. Look at it from underneath with a mirror and you'll see what I mean.

camaroracer016

i think ill practice with this other carb i have. I have that old edelbrock, its set up the same way. If i can do it on there, ill do it on mine. Now, i was looking on the autozone webiste, and they had a good graphic illustration on how to adjust. But it says turn the adjusting screw the specified number of turns. What is the specified number of turns?

Lo-tec

Start with about 7/8 turn from after the valve closes. It's easy to change, and you will feel the difference if not enough or too much spring tension (bog or slow opening).

camaroracer016

Ok. Ill try that. Is there anyway that i can check to see if it is set right the way it is now? To save the hassle of re-setting it? I think thats how the fuel is getting on the secondary AV. The AV is shutting too fast, and because the fuel is flowing through there, when the AV closes, it acts like a scoop, and brings the fuel to the top of the AV. Would this even be possible? lol I really wanna figger this out!!!

camaroracer016

YES! I got to take the car out for a spin. The secondary rods and hangers i put in there were too fat. I think maybe the hanger was bent, and it pulled the rods allll the way up. Because if i would smash it, it would bog. so i came home and threw my old rods/hanger back in, took her out, ran perfect, except maybe i need to play with the timing a lil bit. It doesnt fishtail goin into second, and i MUST have that! lol. Thanks alot guys for all of your help! Ill let you know if i get everything back to normal!

camaroracer016

Well, i think my Dist. Or Electronic timis shyt is messed up. I was palying with the timing, and set 6* With the ESC wire unplugged, it is at like 16-18* advance! IS that normal? If im on the highway, cruising at around 50, and i floor it, it down shifts, goes to like 4.5k and kinda stays there, and i hear a slight popping through the carb. I really think my computer controlled shyt is messed up. I Would like to keep it, but its pushing me away!

naf

iTrader: (7)

Timing is normal. Keep in mind that the computer doesn't control anything at wide open throttle (except full advance).

As long as you're not getting detonation (pinging) you should be ok with the timing and it sounds like it's working fine.

Sticking at 4.5k rpms could be the AV not opening correctly (opposite of an AV related bog). Did you do what Lo-Tec recommended?

Choke problem can also cause secondary issues. When the engine is cold, choke on, the secondaries will not be allowed to open. Make sure your choke is good and open (blades at 90 degrees) when playing.

How's the weather there? It got close to 80 here today. Almost T-top weather.

camaroracer016

alrite. I thought that seemed wayyy to advanced for idle. I check to see that timing is coming in, and it is. But anyways, I have not played with the AV tension yet. Ill do that. But what about popping through the carb? Isnt that running lean or something?

Oh yeah. And the weather yesterday was about 45 degrees. I cant wait for T-Top weather!

naf

iTrader: (7)

Popping through the carb is a new one for me. Are you sure this popping is not pre-detonation (pinging)? If you're unsure, set your base timing to 0 degrees instead of 6 degrees and retry it, (or try some higher octane fuel). I run 4 degrees advance, but like to run mid grade fuel. Still need to adjust your A/V tension.

The A/V not opening soon enough will "choke" your secondaries-no power. Opening too early will "flood" them-bog.

camaroracer016

well ill try the timing. I ALWAYS run 94 octane. So i dunno. I can actually hear it coming out of the carb. When the secondaries open, they are extremely loud! Is this normal? They are soo loud, that if your head is under the hood, and you open them up, they hurt your ears!!! LOL! But ill play with the av tension, and the timing.

tilstad

Hi man, I have this excact problem with my lg4 after the carb rebuild I did. Only in addition at 4000-4500 rpm's the in-dash voltmeter fluctuates all over the place in tune with the struggling /popping/crackling through the carb.

Now I have not had the time to look at it, in fact my car is on the other end of the country at this time, but what I suspect is the reason for it is the following;

Main reason; Carb rebuild kit specified totally wrongfloat hight which I only found out later.

2. The two(?) small pipes in the carb had fallen out, and I knocked them into where they seemed they were supposed to go. This could be wrong.

3. The gasket kit wasn't the exact same as stock, some of it lacked, which I made up from parts of the old gasket and glued together before install. There could be several differences I didn't notice.

Other than this I don't know, I didn't change anything else.

Oh, by the way, my car also stalls when I brake, the harder the faster it stalls, gently- it runs, but only barely.

cheppibear

Did you ever check the float adjustment. Stalling on braking is usually attributable to improper float setting. Happened on my Holley and Edelbrock's.

Thanks

camaroracer016

How do you adjust the float level? Now, sometimes, when im flooring it, and it shifts from 1-2, right after it shifts, itl kinda hesitate for a min. does that have to do with the float?

tilstad

Could be camaroracer, but could also be something else. I got the carb fixed, and it turned out the float level wasn't too high, it was way too low. I set it at 12/32 inch, and it was 16/32, and I guess it just ran out of gas which made for the high rpm struggle. Don't know why it stalled when braking though, but it may have been because of the wrong gasket. Anyway, works perfect now though.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

When you're braking, the fuel moves to the front of the bowl, away from the jets. If the level is too low to start with, it will have less fuel to cover the jets when braking.