MKnight

Hey Guys,

I urgently need help removing my carb because I need to get the car back up and running. The fricken Haynes manual must be talking about another carb because the pictures don't look like me Rochester 4-barrel Carb. I took out all the screws and bolts however, I can't seem to take of what I think is the fast idle link thing. It's the long arm that seems to be attatched to teh carb on the drivers side. I can't figure out how to take it off.

*This is really urgent if anyone could help*

naf

iTrader: (7)

OK you've got to help me out here a little. Are you talking about the rod that runs from the throttle blades to the accelerator pump? Post a picture if you can.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

82 TA eh? familiar car...
haynes thinks you have an american car, so it shows the electronically controlled carb that US got. We have the old school non-cc carb, hence the differences... (or you have an aftermarket carb.)

fast idle should be on the passenger side.

The only things holding the carb to the car, since you only want to remove it, is:

- 4 - 1/2" head bolts
- fuel line at front, 9/16" open wrench, another wrench to hold fuel filter connection in place if needed, 1 1/8" I think...
- all the vacuum lines
- electrical connection on the choke, passenger side
- brake line (hard line) from rear, also 9/16" open wrench I think
- throttle cable, use needle nose pliers to remove the pin holding it in
- throttle return spring, by hand


I think that's it.... 305qTA is in your neck of the woods, and is quite familiar with that carb, maybe you can grab him a case of bud or something for his help

Apeiron

TV and cruise cables, if applicable.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

oh yea, sift through the files in this directory, carb.jpg, and vac ports.jpg and stuff should help you, you can put up a direct image link and ask about "what is the red arrow point to" , or something along those lines.
That's my carb.

directory

MKnight

That looks preciesly like my carb!

https://webdisk.ucalgary.ca/~jmknopp..._html/carb.jpg

Where the orange arrow is pointing, that entire piece attachted to the carb by the long arm. I can't figure out how to remove that.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

leave it on.

wait, are you removing the carb from the car, to bring in for rebuild, or to replace, or are you trying to rebuild the carb yourself?

MKnight

I need to take off the carb because I'm rebuilding it as well as I need to soak it in cleaner.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If you haven't gotten a carb kit yet, get one. It will show you step-by-step what to take apart, how many screws there are, and what can stay together. Don't try to take the carb apart while it is still on the engine.

The part with the throttle arms is part of the carb. You don't take the top part off before you remove the carb from the engine.

MKnight

I already bought the carb rebuild kit, I will look at the instructions tonight again. Thanks, will post back soon.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

you may want to do a search on 305qTA, he asked about the same questions, and a lot was mentioned that might help... such as other tools/parts you may need... (getting the accelerator pump shaft off is kinda tricky, make sure you get carb cleaner, "parts cleaner" is too weak IMHO, etc etc.)

yea, don't try and take off the shafts, or most of the choke bits. They're small, get lost easily, and break easily.... and they're hard to put back in correctly... (ooh ooh, ask me how I know... )

MKnight

Thanks guys for all the help, I managed to get the carb off. Do you know how hard it is to replace the accelerator cable? I believe I may need to replace it. Also, I want to get an Edelbrock manifold and since they aren't responding to my emails was wondering if there is a direct bolt-on for my 305 engine.

naf

iTrader: (7)

The "Performer" manifold will be closest to a direct bolt in. You won't see much from a manifold change alone though. You may not even notice a difference.

If you haven't already improved the exhaust I'd next recommend a cam change. An XE 256 (or other model) can be had with lifters for less than $200. The difficulty level in install is a little high though.

If your current manifold is aluminum (most are) you can pull it, clean the EGR passages out and clean all the paint (if it's painted) off it. Makes a big difference in engine bay appearance.

If you've got a cast iron manifold (never seen one but hear they're out there) then go ahead and swap it but you may want to consider a JY aluminum replacement and save the money for something that will make the car faster.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Cast iron on Canadian-delivered 3rd gens are pretty common. L69's got aluminum, but the typical LG4 was iron.

MKnight

Hey guys, I noticed my carb rebuild kit didn't come with floats, do they not need replacing? It came with a whole bunch of gaskets, what looks like some sort of plunger and various other tiny parts.

naf

iTrader: (7)

It's usually a good idea to replace the float although it's not usually included in a typical rebuild kit. The filter is a separate item also. When you replace it be sure to remove the small check valve in the new filter before installing. It can cause a restriction.

MKnight

Do I really need to replace the fuel float? It seems like its just a piece of plastic attached to a metal bracket.

Apeiron

Might as well as long as you're in there.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Good info at this link:

http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsm...dingEQjets.htm