Holley 3310-4 dripping not spraying
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Car: Only a daily driver, but comin home
Engine: I have one that runs ;)
Transmission: Caged hamster that runs really fast
Axle/Gears: They are round, I know that much
Holley 3310-4 dripping not spraying
Ok i have a Holley 3310-4 model 750 vacuum secondary carb that i completely pulled apart and rebuilt which included new needles and seats, all gaskets, and a new vacuum diaphragm. before it was leaking from the bowl gaskets, base plate gasket, needle/seat area and dripped a little but it still squirted gas
NOW it is leaking from the needle/seat area (not as bad as before), bowl gaskets(i tightened it up and it went away), and the accelerator pump diaphragm(that was replaced) and now it only DRIPS!! no squirt or nothing, just a constant drip
heres some info on the fuel system....i am using a TPI intank fuel pump with a regulator, but i used it before on an Olds carbed 355 i had in my Iroc and had no problem with fuel, i plan on changing it over during the winter to a fuel cell with holley blue pump, but i want to track the car before winter atleast once so i can work out some of the bugs. I also noticed today that the gas seems a bit rusty in color, now what woudl be rusting?? the tank or lines?? could the rust of clogged the noozles in the carb that spray the fuel(i cant remember the correct name)?? i would hate to have to buy a new carb, or not be able to sell this one working and get another one.....any help is greatly appreciate, the winter clock is ticking against me now
NOW it is leaking from the needle/seat area (not as bad as before), bowl gaskets(i tightened it up and it went away), and the accelerator pump diaphragm(that was replaced) and now it only DRIPS!! no squirt or nothing, just a constant drip
heres some info on the fuel system....i am using a TPI intank fuel pump with a regulator, but i used it before on an Olds carbed 355 i had in my Iroc and had no problem with fuel, i plan on changing it over during the winter to a fuel cell with holley blue pump, but i want to track the car before winter atleast once so i can work out some of the bugs. I also noticed today that the gas seems a bit rusty in color, now what woudl be rusting?? the tank or lines?? could the rust of clogged the noozles in the carb that spray the fuel(i cant remember the correct name)?? i would hate to have to buy a new carb, or not be able to sell this one working and get another one.....any help is greatly appreciate, the winter clock is ticking against me now
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Car: 91' Camaro
Engine: Carbed 305
Transmission: 5-Speed Manual
be sure that you dind't overtightened the screws. pull it apart and measure it with a ruler or something straight. or maybe the bad gas has clogged something up in it. you got a fuel filter before the carb?
nebu.
nebu.
#3
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Car: Only a daily driver, but comin home
Engine: I have one that runs ;)
Transmission: Caged hamster that runs really fast
Axle/Gears: They are round, I know that much
yeah, it has the stock fuel filter, but i am going to put a glass filter in.
which screws could i of over tightened??
which screws could i of over tightened??
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Car: 91' Camaro
Engine: Carbed 305
Transmission: 5-Speed Manual
the 4 screws from the bowl. also the ones from the accelerator pump diaphragm. if its not straght put some sandpaper on a piece of glass and see if you can get it straght again.
fuel pressure is ok i assume. and replace the bad gas.
fuel pressure is ok i assume. and replace the bad gas.
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Car: Only a daily driver, but comin home
Engine: I have one that runs ;)
Transmission: Caged hamster that runs really fast
Axle/Gears: They are round, I know that much
thanks Nebu, i will be back on here to ask more questions if i have any more trouble, right after i put a trans back into my friends Camaro....in a driveway....in 40 degree weather....when it is windy
#6
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Check for metering block gaskets in backwards and check to see if you stripped out the needle and seat threads out of the top of the bowl. when removing the needle and seat be very gentle, loosen the screw then adjust the nut accordingly.remove the sight plug to visually set the float level with the nut, then tighten the screw. Fuel should just slosh out of sight hole when car is pushed.
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