TBI92Camaro

OK, I just got done on my 82 Camaro. I put a cam in, took the AC, SMog and all the computer crap out of the car, making it a basic Carb setup. NOw, I put a 625cfm Carter AFB COmpetition Series Carb on there and it just runs like ****, putters and backfires like hell, basically I feel its a POS. Now, I could rebuild it but I need something to put on there. I still have my old CC QuadraJet, can I use that on there and it would work like a normal carb, considering there isnt a Computer in there anymore? Also, I can either rebuild the Carter or a Holley Double Pumper that supposedly needs an acceleration pump. So,

1. Will the QuadraJet work on my car now without the Computer? And if not, what did the computer control on that Carb.?

2. Should I rebuild the Carter? Rebuild the Holley? Go to a junkyard and buy a carb, try it out, if messed up, return it and get another carb? Look through a local paper for a used carb and pay around 100-150 for a used Edelbrock/Holley?

I really just need some opinions here because Ive spent around 500 this pastm onth on this car and its all going to waste without a decent carb. I dont have the money to buy a brand new carb, otherwise Id buy a brand new Demon or AVS Edelbrock. So, any help is appreciated, thanks.

Bunker82

1. It will run without the comp. Will it run any good? NO (ask me how I know this ). The computer controlled the air/fuel mixture for anything but full throttle in which case it went to full rich, which is what you'll run ALL the time if it doesn't have the comp hooked up.

When you took out the computer, you did replace the distributor with a non computer controlled one didn't you? Otherwise it'll run like garbage. Also if it is an auto tranny the torque convertor lockup will now not work.

2. If you have a stock or mild motor you are probably best off with the stock computer and carb. It will take some learning to set it up, but for a mild motor it is a good setup. If you are really set on ditching the computer try rebuilding the Carter. My old Edelbrock (Carter clone) did a great job when I used it. But if you have no less than three carbs at your disposal I wouldn't bother getting a new one, just carefully rebuild one and try it. Save the money for some exhaust mods.


HTH

TBI92Camaro

I already ripped all that Computer wiring out of the car and the car is running, though ****ty. The previous owner had taken the CC Dist. out and put in a HEI Vac. Advance distributor. So, the Q-Jet is out of the question I am assuming? Also, on the tranny, what will happen if the TC Lockup connector isnt connected. Here's why im asking.

My cousin has a V8 S10 with a 4L60 (90-92 700R4) tranny. He doesnt have any kind of computer hooked up and his tranny shifts fine. This tranny come out of my 85 Berlinetta V8 Camaro. When I swapped the tranny into this Camaro, I admit it does shift a bit weird, hell its like it slips sometimes but i always thought it was because the TV cable wasnt properly adjusted. Since there isnt a computer, is there a part I can buy for this 700R4 to plug into that connector to send false signals or something so it wont perform crazily? Just wondering, thanks.

JFROG

sounds like timing? double check your spark plug wires and firing order. whatever you do don't get a carb from a junkyard, i just got one and it was full of crap and rust on the inside,

contactpatch

...92...
could the existing cc distributor work, if the
carb had TPS?
Also, the tbi (intake)manifold is the restriction,
not the 'throttle body / injector' assembly.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The carb and distributor are controlled by the ECM using input from the carb and distributor, amoung other things. So, no, just having a CC carb and distributor won't do, because you still need the computer and other sensors.

As stated, without the computer the carb will be full rich all the time. There is a little bit of "limp home" timing built into the distributor, so in theory you could set the timing for 36 degrees at high RPMs and it would run okay at WOT - assuming your starter would turn the engine over with 25 or so initial degrees of timing.

TBI92Camaro, how did you mount this Carter to the intake manifold? You don't say which manifold you have - what manifold do you have? You could very well have a simple vacuum leak problem. Why do you think the Carter needs to be rebuilt? For $20-$30 for a rebuild kit, if it wasn't already fresh, why not just do it? I don't have much personal experience with those carbs, so I don't know what might cause problems that would be solved with a rebuild.

Have you checked all the basics like spark plug wire routing, timing? Are you absolutely sure when you installed the timing set that you got the dots lined up correctly?

cgb

Having a CCC carb and distributor means nothing if you don't have an ECM to run 'em.



The CCC carb is useless without an ECM as stated. It'll go to full rich without an ECM signal.

I like Q-Jets....always have. Of course, I'm never seen this statement proven wrong yet in 18 years of wrenching...

99% of all carb problems...ain't....


Junkyard carb will need a rebuild...if not some hard parts replaced. So the money you think you're saving initially begins to add up.

And non computer controlled Q-Jets are calibrated / tuned to the engine / chassis they came in originally...this explains why a Q-Jet that ran great on a 455 Olds runs like crap on a 350 Chevy...it needs to be tuned to the engine.

Might be best off rebuilding the carb you have now, making sure beforehand it's actually the carb at fault.

TBI92Camaro

Ok, first off, this work was done on my 82 Camaro Berlinetta LG4. I pulled all the AC and Smog equipment off. Then I pulled the cam and carefully realigned the dots and while I was at it, installed a double roller timing chain, putting it at original timing setting (or exactly where it was) on the bottom crank gear. Then I reassembled the engine and put the HEI Vac. Advance Dist. on it (non-CC) and put my Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, EGR blocked off (yes it is sealed good). Then I put the Carter 625cfm carb on it and replaced all the plugs with ACCEL Header plugs, Wires with ACCEL SuperStock wires, ACCEL HEI Coil (big grey one that covers the top of the dist.), new ACCEL Cap, and rotor button. Me and my cousin checked and the Dist. is set right. the carb was known to be junky beforehand, as my friend had it on his 396 87 IROC Camaro. made the car run like crap. We tried tuning it and it runs ****ty and makes the car backfire. My friend put an Edlebrock on the 396 and made it run perfectly. So, I do know the carb is a bit crappy. Ive tried adjusting it but its just in need of a rebuild I believe. BTW, the Carter is supposedly the exact close of an Edelbrock carb.


Also, I have checked my timing, its good. Checked the wire order, its fine as well. Im at the point where it has to be the carb, but Id rather get the opinion from some fellow ThirdGenners before I yet again throw more money into this car....sigh.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That was a very useful account. Thanks.

Seems to be pretty clear the carb isn't in proper condition. Either rebuild or replace.

(FWIW, the Performer is a clone of the AFB, not the other way around...)

TBI92Camaro

OK, I have a couple questions and one is a total N00B Question...here goes.

1. what does it mean when the carb shoots flames out? I mean ,i cant even hit the gas without it doing it, what is up? Its at TDC compression, and I checked plug wire order and all....any ideas?

2.

And now for the noob question....sorry....

3. I had to get it out of the garage it was sitting in, so I had to drive it up the road to my home. anyways, as i was driving, I got to like 2000-2500 RPM and I heard this LOUD clunking/banging sound under the hood.....Got me scared. I let it coast most of the way home, never above 2500.....ANyways, I got it home and I popped my hood and listened to the banging sound.....coming from under the vavle covers....sounds like the rocker arms are hitting the VC's. So, my question is, If I didnt tighten the Rocker arms down enough (I never have messed with them or cams period, first time here) could it be possible (a BIG Iffie here) that if I properly tightened the Rocker arms down to Zero Lash, would it make my car run right? Could not having the Rockers properly adjusted make my car run like total Cr*p? Im going to work on them tommorrow after work and I just want some honest helpful answers.

Im sorry if you begin thinking "My ***, what is he doing under the hood of that car?!" But Ive never touched a cam or rocker arm adjustments till now and now that I have, Im at the point of total frustration because I just dumped quite a bit of money into this car, only to see it run crappy. Its got me on wits end and I just need some help. My friend who has been helping me (VERY Little) told me to take it to a mechanic and let them redo my cam work.......I just hate doing that it makes me feel like an idiotic r!cer/spoiled kid and I really want to learn how to do this myself, and taking it to a mechanic is something I swore I'd NEVER do, with all the pride in my car and all.

Anyways, Any constructive help is appreciated..sigh, all I want is my car to run right.....sigh.....

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

See if this sounds familiar https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=249865

If your valves weren't adjusted properly, especially too tight, that would explain a good portion of your symptoms.

Except for the part about the carb not running right on a known-good engine.

TBI92Camaro

Its not lifters ticking, itsl ike the rocker arms are loose and are banging against the Valve Covers, HARD! Should I pull the VC's off and tighten them down? BTW, how do I set valve lash easily? Just curious? Motor is all back together obviously. I did, sadly reuse the stock pushrods for now because NO ONE around here has an SBC LG4 pushrods I can get, Everyone is out of them, guess Im not the only one doing an LG4/SBC build . anyways, I need a bit of help on Valve Lash adjustments. Thanks.

BTW, if a pushrod broke, would it make it do this? Thanks.

BTW again lol, the carb, after a bit of adjusting, runs decent but the motor still backfires and when I tried the 750 DoublePumper, it was shooting High flames and when it didnt shoot flames, it would shoot a spurt of fuel out, like Old Faithful dying or something lol.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Easy way to adjust hydraulic lifters:

1) Remove both valve covers.

2) Loosen all rockers until there is slack in every one.

3) Bring timing mark on damper up to the "zero" TDC mark. (Steps #2 & #3 can be done in either order...)

4) Tighten eack rocker until the slack is just taken out.

5) Turn engine over 1/2 turn on the crank (either by putting a socket on the damper bolt, or bumping it over with the starter - if you use the starter, take the power wire off the distributor/coil to make sure the engine doesn't start up).

6) Tighten any rockers that still have slack in them. Four of the rockers should not require tightening.

7) Repeat steps #5 and #6. Four more rockers should not require tightening.

8) Repeat step #7. Only 4 rockers should require tightening.

9) Bring timing mark back up to TDC and verify no rockers are still loose.

10) Turn each rocker down 1/2 turn.

11) Replace valve covers.

ljnowell

Another good way of doing it, is to take the valve covers off, and start at Compression stroke TDC #1. Adjust #1. Manually turn the engine 90 degrees, and adjust #8. Keep doing this all the way down the firing order. This is how I did my last one, and didnt have to readjust a single valve after break in. I had someone tell me once that doing this will cause valve float, but my car pulls clean all the way to around 6800, and will keep going past 7300. I accidently made it to 7300 once.