ator

I am strongly considering getting rid of my TPI setup in favor of a carburated setup.

My current setup: 92 TPI speed density, SLP runners, airfoil, SLP cold air induction.

Thinking of using: Weiand stealth intake (already have) appropriate cam and carb (don't have yet. I already have the distributer needed (complete)

Other current mods are: 3.73 gear, shift kit, headers w/ free flowing exhaust. Stock heads are staying

Which setup will yeild more HP, best 1/4 mile times? Keep in mind that the cam and carb will be whatever works best with that intake. (idle to 6800rpm)

Also, what cam and carb are best suited for that intake and stock heads?

Thanks and I did a ton of searching over the last few days I'm just tired of reading countless posts with minimal info that I am looking for.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Is this going to be mainly a track car now, or do you plan on driving it during the week?

ator

It's not my daily driver, just for cruising and the track every other weekend or so.

BTW, the reason I'm using the steath intake is because I already have it and I want it to fit under the stock hood.

1981z28

tpi is a great setup to have but if u want power with simple repairs then yea change it.

F-BIRD'88

If you're going to trash the TPI and go with a carb then a Weiand Stealth intake is a good one.

I'd try a Edelbrock 750cfm carb (#1407) They seem to work very well right out of the box. A 750is not too big for this motor with a dual plane manifold.
You will want to replace the in-tank fuel pump with a fuel pump designed for a carburator. 6 to 8 PSI self reguated pressure. Don't bother trying to regulate down a high pressure EFI fuel pump. get a new pump.

Your stock TPI cam will work fine with a carb.
You'll get increased performance with a new cam with about 208 to 222 deg duration at .050" ground on 110-114 lobe separation. anything bigger will require a high stall converter for best results.
Would you be looking for a hyd cam or a hyd roller cam?

ator

Actually, I was thinking of going with this cam

Xtreme Energy XR282HR Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Only
Lift: .510''/.520''
Duration: 282°/288°
RPM Range: 2200-5800


Operating Range: 2200-5800 RPM
Duration Advertised: 282° Intake / 288° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 236° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .510'' Intake / .520'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 110°

any thoughts?

ator

So, if I put the Edelbrock 750 with the Weiand Stealth intake and kept the stock cam (at least for now) What kind of gains can I expect?

Stekman

Before you look at cams, let me ask you this: Do you plan a torque converter swap at all?

Cam manufacturers are tricky that way. They do not lie and they do tell all you need to know about a camshaft on the cam timing sheet. However, not all things that you need to know about a cam are printed in ink like the ground in specs such as duration, lift, and lobe seperation. To properly pick a cam, you have to read between the lines. You have to be able to put those specs together to come up with the also crucial aspects such as amount of valve overlap and the actual ramp rates themselves (the actual "how FAST" do the lobes open and close the lifters?).

I will not tell you not to run that cam. That is ultimatly your choice. If you DO decide to run that cam, be prepared to change a lot of things about your engine. You will need:

1.) A new torque converter
2.) New valve springs, but i'd suggest new ones anyway with any performance cam
3.) Stock heads with that cam aren't going to work to the fullest of that cam's potential

There are a few other small things that would be needed. Aside from that, that cam is borderline on vacuum. Meaning, it might not pull enough vacuum to operate your vaccy powered accessories, namely brakes. A vac caninister would be suggested with that cam.

I am under the presumption you are using your current block? If so, any hyd roller cam you get would have to be designed for a 87-up block. Meaning it needs to have a stepped cam gear mounting surface so you can use the factory retaining plate. There is no price difference between a "retro fit" hyd roller cam and a hyd roller cam that was designed for use with factory roller blocks. From summt, they are both $239.95 or something like that.

ator

Yea, I get the idea with the cam. My buddy I was talking to not 5 minutes ago was saying pretty much the same thing.

But if I were to keep the stock cam and go with the Weiand Stealth intake and a Edelbrock 750 carb, what gains (if any, hopefully) could I expect to have.

Thanks again

THEGENERAL

well its hard to say what hard core numbers you will gain or lose but you should definately feel a significant gain in power in the mid to top end for sure

1981z28

thats to big .. a 282 has to be stalled and wont let u pass the emissions test. the extreme cams are high torque cams mint mainly for 4x4s

1981z28

Stekman

i am curious as to where you draw this conclusion.

I was always under the impression that the Xtreme Energy cams represent the latest and most advanced in camshaft design. Using more extreme ramp rates and a larger duration to lift ratio than their Magnum or High Energy counterparts.

I suggest you look into cams more before making such bold generalizations.

ator

You know the funny thing is I copied and pasted the wrong info, this is the one I wanted

Xtreme Energy XR270HR Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Only
Lift: .495''/.502''
Duration: 270°/276°
RPM Range: 1600-5400

High performance application, largest cam with stock converter, noticeable idle.
Operating Range: 1600-5400 RPM
Duration Advertised: 270° Intake / 276° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 218° Intake / 224° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .495'' Intake / .502'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 110°

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

My experience had been that you want a converter that stalls above what the cam manufacturers call the lower end of a cam's "power band".

For instance, the 396: Cam said 2000-5800, I had a TCI Saturday Night Special that stalled at 2200, but the engine really "comes on" at 3000. Last fall I put a 2800-3200 stall converter in, it dropped ET's 2 tenths (stalls closer to 3500, by the way).

Similar story on the Camaro - cam says 2200-5500, the converter stalls at 2300, but the engine picks up significantly at 3000, and pulls easily over 5500. If I had a 3000 stall converter, my ET's would probably come down a few tenths.

In both cases, the 2200-2300 stall was fine for driving around the street. It's great in the Camaro. But, on the strip, it's a whole different ball game. Since you indicated this is primarily a weekend warrior, and I assume you want to be able to drive it to the track, put the "package" together to best accomplish the primary task. Put together a cam/intake/converter package that works together. You typically pick a cam best suited to perform the duties and pick the other parts based on it, but since you've got the intake, pick the cam & converter to optimize the intake. Either the XE276HR or XE282HR should work nicely with the intake and about 2500-2800 stall.

On that note, do yourself a favor and get a carb that is intended for drag racing - a Holley or Demon mechanical secondary (double pumper).

(Did you say something about emissions?)

F-BIRD'88

A much better match if you're going to stay with a stockor near stock stall converter. Good choice. If you can come up with a Corvette or S-10 converter (factory 12" hi stall) and swap it in you'll be all set. (about 2200 stall) You may or may not already have this converter.