Okay this is whats going on.

This car was great when i first got it until the exhaust came apart while i was driving at the cat. Damn people who rush a job....anyways I went to the exhuast shop and they told me that my cat was deffinetly needing replacing and i could tell that as I saw it as well. so they replaced that and fixed my exhaust leaks.

now on to the problems that came right after that. i guess the cat was not functional for ages. because now the timing was off and i didn't know that. and the guy who owned my car wired the O2 sensor wires right across the damn manifolds and they CTS was ripped out. well i put those off for a while and performace sucked alot all of a sudden. remember im still new to cars but getting better every day.

So I replaced and rewired the O2 sensor (the wire in better location) replaced the CTS and put a heat shield over the wires, replaced my cap and rotor with parts made for the Accel HEI ignition coil, changed my plugs (except for 7 and 8 couldn't reach but changing them later today with the front on jacks) and new wires to the plugs. So i did a pretty good tuneup here. oh yeah and replaced fuel filter and PCv valve which needed changing as well. The plugs were deffinetly very black due to running very rich for a while.

however the last of my problems is after i adjusted timing and idle is that when i try to start the car this morning to see if it was any better at starting it still took a while to start, about half as les time but still too long. once the car is warmed up it runs great which i heard means you are running too lean. i can't seem to get my car to start in the high idle cam position anymore either. and when starting after a long time the carb will back fire and smoke will come out of it. and this is ruinning my open air element. pissing me off now. basically.... what do i do?

 

btw the car is a rebuilt 4-bbl Rochester Q-Jet from Holley.

 

Okay can't someone answer instead of just viewing what it says??? I need the help here please

 

Most "carb" problems are really ignition problems, so the saying goes. I was waiting for you to say you replaced the last two plugs.

Sounds like a choke problem. Either it wasn't put together right when rebuilt, or it isn't adjusted properly. You either need to get it working properly (which may void your warranty, depending upon what needs to be done), or exchange it for another rebuilt unit.

 

thanks for replying. im goin out right now to replace the last two plugs. its been rainging alot....and most places i know here no one has a garage, just car ports....wierd i know.

I found out one of my problems. It seems that the Throttle is stuck open. I don't know why though. about the 2 weeks ago it was working fine. until i started trying to figure out how it works myself.....i didn't take anything apart. but i moved stuff while it was on to see what it did. but i don't remember moving anything out of the way. How do i get it to say close when it gets cold out? this moring first thing i did was take my element off push the throttle closed with my finger and then it started up right away and went into high idle.

BTW...it was replaced before i bought the car. The guy says its been there since last summer. and up till a couple weeks ago it hasn't been a problem.

 

With the engine cold and off, opening the throttle should allow the choke to close and fast idle cam to engage (I assume you were talking about the fast idle cam, and not the solenoid when you said "high idle"). If it does not, either something is jamming the choke linkage, or the choke thermostat is toast.

The choke thermostat has "rich-lean" markings on it. Loosening the 3 mount screws (assuming it now has screws rather than pop rivets since it was rebuilt) and turning the housing in the "rich" direction will put more tension on the choke. But, if it was working properly before and stopped working without any adjustment, the only explainations are a broken thermostat, or loose housing. Or jammed linkage.

 

hey thanks for that info. im not sure if it has been messed with before. but with a nonworking cat and the car tuned to work fine under those conditions, would that throw off the settings now that all the sensors and new cat have been replaced alond with timing?

 

No. I did all the mods in the sig to a stock LG4, and the only adjustments I had to make were the cold and warm idle speed, and choke pull-off. It starts and runs cold as well as it did when stock.

 

Well...........now i feel stupid!! I found out the problem and I should always listen to what people say by checking the simple stuff first. The stupid Edlebrokc pro flow 1002(stupid triagnle one with spunge) was rubbing against the Throttle and it kept getting stuck!!! I went a bought a low profile nice big silvery one and it sounds better probably works better and the thottle does not stick anymore But at least i replaced a bunch stuff that as i saw them, needed to be replaced to do just being broken or old and crumbley etc etc.

As for that pro flow air element. I should really write to edlebrock and say how the application for 4-bbl carbs sucks my ballz and that i keep hearing how people see them catch on fire!! Well im a happy man now and my brand new ABS headliner came a couple days ago and it looks beatiful!! T-tops off just in time for good weather. Thanks for all the help!