89TurboV6

I have a diagram I made in microsoft paint(don't laugh) and I can't attach it cause it is to big can someone help me out here.

Im planning on eliminating the emissions stuff when i add my 87+ holley intake for spreadbore carb and the diagram will help out alot.

Damon

'Splain me what you want to do and I can talk you through it. I don't need a diagram. After working on QJets for 20 years it's burned into my brain.

I'm guessing you're talking about vacuum hose routing, etc. What you can ditch, what has to get reused and how it has to hook up, right?

89TurboV6

Well heres the diagram for others that might be checking this post out.

89TurboV6

I want everything except the pcv gone. Now what do I do about the fuel line to the vapor canister? I read that some guys just cap it off, is this safe to do? How and where do I hook up the vacuum advance from the distributer and the trans converter switch? What does the distributer vacuum delay valve do?

Thanks Mike the carb rookie

Edit: What do i do with the ports on the carb do I just plug them?

kanuck

I have a Cdn 82 LG4, looks like exact same setup. This is what I did.

1. Removed EFE vacuum lines. Plugged port B.
2. Removed EGR and made a block off plate out of steel. Removed the vacuum lines. MINE did not hook into the Distributor lines like yours. My distributor line was totally a separate item. I obviously left mine alone. So I plugged Port J and plugged the vacuum line from the fuel canister and wrapped it around the canister.
3. I left my fuel vapour canister and PCV system intact. I have a manual, so I didn't have to worry about the trans conv.

Just doing that stuff alone cleaned up the maze quite a bit. I don't want to remove my fuel vapour canister for fear of "smelliness". And of course removing the PCV system would be bad news too.

My car runs just fine with these changes. No pinging with EGR removed and my engine is advanced about 8 degrees.

Damon

In addition to the PCV I highly recommend you keep your distributor's vacuum advance functional- fuel mileage will be considerably worse without it and you'll foul out plugs much more often. Attach it to port J. You will probably need an adapter since the port on the carb takes a larger vacuum hose than the one of the distributor.

Also, without a functional EGR system the factory vacuum advance canister in the distributor will probably supply WAY too much vacuum advance at part throttle and you can get pinging at part throttle because of it. If you have this problem buy a Crane adjustable vacuum advance canister and use the "limiting cam" to lock out as much vacuum advance as possible. This will leave you with about 12* of vacuum advance- just about perfect for a mild street performance small block. The kit costs about $15.

You can take all the lines off the vapor canister ECXEPT the tank vent line that attaches it to the fuel tank. You'll want to keep that connected so if anything ever dribbles out or pressure builds in the tank that it goes into the canister, and not stright out the end of an open hose. You will not get very high levels of gasoline vapors, regardless. I have done this to many cars over the years.

89TurboV6

Where would I connect the trans converter switch?

Edit: On a side note can I spray carb cleaner in the m/c cause I pulled out the connector and it is covered in black crud? also where can i get new connectors? sinse the previous owner seemed to like to use tape to hold connectors on.

Damon

No, just take all the lines off of the caniser that end up going to the carb. The only one you leave on is the 3/8" line that goes back to the tank.

What does the trans converter switch do exactly? I don't recall seeing one of those before, unless I'm confusing it with something else.

Argh! You messed me up- you edited as I was replying to your updated diagram.

89TurboV6

Sorry about that I edit it about 6 times.
The trans switch locks up the torque converter when the engine reaches a certain speed.

89TurboV6

Can anyone suggest a t-stat housing that has a place for the temp sensor that connects to the m/c because I cant reuse my stock one cause it has the EFE TVS in it which is soon to be not there.

Damon

Just buy a pipe plug to replace the EFE TVS at any speed shop. They have them in aluminum with an allen-key fitting in the top to tighten them down- they fit fairly flush. Not TOTALLY clean like the fitting was never there, but pretty close. Install the plug, then paint the whole assembly and it'll look pretty slick.

If I trace the TC lockup switch back on the original diagram it looks like it basically connects to the "J" port, which makes sense. That port only has vacuum above idle speed at part throttle- and vacuum at that port again drops to zero at WOT. You don't want to lock up the TC at idle or at WOT, so patching it into the "J" port, along with the distributor's vacuum advance, would be the way I'd go.

89TurboV6

Thanks for all the help Damon and Kanuck.

kanuck

For comparison, here's my 82 non cc Q-jet hose routing.

As mentioned, I removed the EFE, EGR, and air cleaner lines. Stange that my distributor is on a different port than yours.