Rochester QuadraJunk ?? or a brand new edelbrock
#1
Rochester QuadraJunk ?? or a brand new edelbrock
i have an 86 305 4bbl t/a with a brand spankin new engine in it , and it still runs like sh**! I wonder if an Edelbrock 750 cfm would work in it . I just had given my 79 t/a away to my friend who is supposed to be paying for it , and it has the brand new edelbrock carb on it , and when i asked him if that carb would work on my car he said that it wouldnt but I think he's just trying to be greedy ??? what do ya guys think?? ~ SinCityGoddess
#2
dont even mess with an edelbrock 750. ive heard nothing but horror stories about them. all youd need on your 305 is a 600 cfm carb unless you have some major engine work done. the 750 would work on your car but there a royal pain in the *** to tune in right. if you want more of a performance carb then an economical carb go with a holley.
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 36
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Are you getting an SES light? How exactly is it misbehaving?
What have you done with the ignition?
Replacing the carb with a non-CC type is very likely to cost more and be more of a hassle than fixing whatever is wrong with the factory setup.
What have you done with the ignition?
Replacing the carb with a non-CC type is very likely to cost more and be more of a hassle than fixing whatever is wrong with the factory setup.
#4
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 264
Likes: 1
From: SillyCon Valley, CA
Car: 83 Z-28 (Original owner)
Engine: 305 CC-carb
Transmission: Richmond 6-speed, Rear:3.73
Five7 is right. Give us more info on your problem, and a list of what parts were "carried over" from the old motor. We should be able to help you fix it up. Stored trouble-codes are the place to start any troubleshooting on a computer controled(CC) carb.
#5
It is acting so screwed up in every way , when I turn it off it stays on and smells like fumes for a minute . It cuts out while Im driving . A whole bunch of stuff .... ( yes , only a female would word it so well.... !?!!?!)
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#8
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 36
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
That typically means the ECM isn't getting signals from the distributor. If you set the timing recently, that code is set. But, if you've cleared the codes (unhooked the ECM power wire or battery cable for 10 seconds or so), and the code 41 is back after being run again, that would very definately cause the engine to run poorly.
How did you check the codes, with a scanner, or by watching the SES light blink?
How did you check the codes, with a scanner, or by watching the SES light blink?
#10
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 264
Likes: 1
From: SillyCon Valley, CA
Car: 83 Z-28 (Original owner)
Engine: 305 CC-carb
Transmission: Richmond 6-speed, Rear:3.73
Both the carb and dist switch to "limp home" mode when the computer sees a code 41 problem. Code 12 is always flashed when checking codes with the motor off, but it should not flash with the motor running( it is "self clearing"). Unhook the battery for 30 seconds or more, then start the engine, then jumper the ALDL.
If it flashes 12 when running, you got an electrical problem with the dist or wiring to the computer. There is a 4 wire connector that comes out of the back of the dist. Is it pluged in ? A previous owner may have left this unpluged.
If it does not flash 12 with the engine on, but stores 41 again after driving the car, then the problem might be with the Vac sensor.
Do you, or someone you know have voltmeter for troubleshooting electronic problems?
If it flashes 12 when running, you got an electrical problem with the dist or wiring to the computer. There is a 4 wire connector that comes out of the back of the dist. Is it pluged in ? A previous owner may have left this unpluged.
If it does not flash 12 with the engine on, but stores 41 again after driving the car, then the problem might be with the Vac sensor.
Do you, or someone you know have voltmeter for troubleshooting electronic problems?
#12
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 264
Likes: 1
From: SillyCon Valley, CA
Car: 83 Z-28 (Original owner)
Engine: 305 CC-carb
Transmission: Richmond 6-speed, Rear:3.73
All right!
Owning the proper tools is cool.
Like anything else, a little practice helps. Measuring DC Volts and Resistance (ohms) is very safe with a DVM(digital volt meter). The main thing to avoid is trying to measure Current (Amps). Install a good battery in your DVM and set it up the to measure Ohms (read the manual). Plug in the leads and short them together, you should get a reading lower then 1.0 ohms. Next set it to measure DC Volts, and try reading any batterys you have around the house, or check the car's battery voltage. It should be about 12.5 volts when the car is off and 13.5-14.5 volts when running.
Please check the codes and tell us what is happening.
We may want to move this problem over to the "Electronics" board, what do you think? Topic= Code 41 on CC Carb car.
Owning the proper tools is cool.
Like anything else, a little practice helps. Measuring DC Volts and Resistance (ohms) is very safe with a DVM(digital volt meter). The main thing to avoid is trying to measure Current (Amps). Install a good battery in your DVM and set it up the to measure Ohms (read the manual). Plug in the leads and short them together, you should get a reading lower then 1.0 ohms. Next set it to measure DC Volts, and try reading any batterys you have around the house, or check the car's battery voltage. It should be about 12.5 volts when the car is off and 13.5-14.5 volts when running.
Please check the codes and tell us what is happening.
We may want to move this problem over to the "Electronics" board, what do you think? Topic= Code 41 on CC Carb car.
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