yanfoo

Hi, i have, well, alots of question

i've just rebuild my carb a non-cc qjet, it idle so-so at 600rpm right now, i did'nt have time to adjust any screws yet.

It's like that because i did not install the choke at all, housing and fast idle... so the car does idle cold when choke plate closed by hand...

my problem is , the bowl cover gasket is leaking a little, well it goes wet!
so i guess its my float ajustement or something i do wrong with the pump plunger? the plunger realy want to go up with that spring, should i adjuste the rod with a little play or no play at all or with little pressure?

Also i have a hard time to understand how to adjust the float!
Right now the seat is fully screwed down and the float little bent...

An other question, what part makes the primary metering rods moves??? it's like there stuck up when i installed then, because there is a sping underneat.

What you guys use to plug the vacuum fitting ? electrical tape?

I can have any pic of any parts on it, i have a digital cam here.

Thanx, i can't wait to make it work fine, summer has arrive

rhuarc31

Ok, Lets see. The "bowl cover", otherwise known as the airhorn, gasket could be because the float level is off, OR the airhorn could be warped from previous overtightening. When you have it off to check the float level put a good straightedge across it and check for gaps underneath it. Also check to make sure you didn't damage the gasket. If it's the float or gasket those are easy fixes. If the airhorn is warped you'll have to replace it from a junk carb, or get it straightened. You can use a gasoline proof gasket sealer as a cheap fix, but I don't really recommed it.

To adjust the float take a gently press the end at the needle and seat down and check at the back end of the float with a ruler. Measure down from the top of the bowl to the top of the float. A good general setting is between 5/32 and 1/4 inch. Make sure the float isn't leaking and absorbing fuel as well, that would screw up your float level once the carb has fuel in it.

The primary metering rods move by vacuum, so when the carb is out of the car they should sit all the way up. When the car is started they'll be sucked down.

To plug a vacuum fitting run down to your local autoparts and buy some vacuum caps. They're dirt cheap, and will work much better than tape.

yanfoo

ok i'll try adjust the float again...
the airhorn must be ok because it was not leaking before the rebuild i did... new float, new needle and seat...

---There is some freeplay on the needle clip! should there be?
Should i bend it to be no play at all... i did'nt realy look at the old one on disasembly.

Damon

If you got a rebuild kit with a rather thick, glossy-looking airhorn gasket it will weep a little. I found that cheap, thin, rough looking gaskets work best, actually. A $15 Pep Boys rebuild kit has these cheaper-but-better-sealing gaskets in it.

Ask no further questions- have no more answers. I've run into this head-scratcher before, too.

yanfoo

ok as for the leak its fixed... i have a selenoid thing on the passenger side and i had a new rubber seal for it, well the old one was destroyed... when in place the rubber is too think! and i see the gap it makes on the airhorn, so i removed it, seem ok now. my rebuild kit is from NAPA... dont recal the name, echlin i think, thin thin grey gasket.

still the car run like crap... a little wost then it was before the rebuild...

I'll try to run around a little and heat up the engine, if its streetable when hot i'm ok...

It's stock and i had 10" vaccuum last summer!! yeah i know something is wrong. but it idle at 600rpm... a little low.

right now all ports are plugged, the power brakes too. still run like crap.

I have removed my adjustement plug so the screw can be use but i dont realy think i need to play with thoses to make it run good because it's the stock setting.

All i need is making it work good enough for highway use so i can go to my buddy place so he take a look...

yanfoo

talked too fast, it still leak on the airhorn gasket

--- edit ---
well would not be the word, the gasket is grey and it becomes black from the fuel it absorb, it does not seem to DROP any fuel, i've let it run 10min and it was fine.

Damon

It's not easy to rebuild a computer controlled QJet correctly. Most typical carb shops don't do it well. It's a very common complaint on this board to rebuild it and have it run worse.

If you get really stuck call these guys- The Carburetor Shop in Ontario, California (not Canada). 909-481-5816. They know what they're doing with them.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Canadian car. Very likely not a CC q-jet. Solenoid is some kind of dual-stage accelerator pump/power piston/what-sca-ma-call-it thingy or something that I forget what it is because I've never had to deal with it except for the plastic plug they put in US non-CC carbs to fill that cavity because it doesn't have that solenoid thingy in there.