almost done!!

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heres some youtube vids of my car finally on with the carb swap!!

 

 

Sounds good. Same cam I am running.

 

my 350 bored .40 over I changed the carb to a early 70s medium Rochester still needs some fine tuning. summit big valve heads and a good bumpstick

 

awesome pics everybody as well as inspiring ive since started the project to convert over my tpi to carb as well...now ive got a question...how to get rid of all the wiring....dont really wanna cut it.... but not really sure how to hide it either any suggestions?

 

you can just pull it all out. the connector is behind the passenger wheel. it then goes into the interior. if you take the passenger wheel off then pull the inner fender liner and then look back you will see it.

 

I have a 1985 firebird with a ccc motor so my wiring harness was split into two one for emissions and carb. one for lights and everything else.. I have read that in 86 with the carbs went to the way side gm started to mix the two harnesses together.. and its really hard to separate.. my reverse lights wiere the only wires in the harness I removed

 

i have a 91 rs and when i went to carb i completely removed the passenger side harness. all gauges and lights still work

 

How do you guys get so much room in your engine bay, is just a carb thing or are you just relocating everything? I'm tpi and it's a mess in there.

 

I had a tpi car I de-smogged and went carb and I had a huge box of junk came out of there and lost a considerable amount of weight. And saved a huge amount of $ on constantly buying map sensors, tps sensors and all the crap that could go wrong with tpi. Later I had a 91z28 w/ speed density TPI system and it ran flawlessly

 

Nope, simply removing a lot of stuff. For instance - no smog/emissions equipment takes a LOT of stuff out. Also I notice a lot of the ones on here (mine included) have taken out the air conditioning equipment (compressor, lines, etc etc). That stuff alone gives you all kinds of space. You can relocate your washer and overflow bottles too. Everything else is just not needed, so it gets ripped out.

 

From v6 to a backyard find crate 350 to a 383 vortec headed monster. Still under construction.

 

Just out of the break in phase but I like the way it sounds

 

what valve covers are those? how are they doing as far as leaks? have you had the car under heavy load (like a wide open throttle pull) yet? we are fighting leaks on some cheapy valve covers and are looking for other solutions.

 

Here's mine. Just a basic GM crate engine running a Demon 650 carb. Cast everything, stock Vortec heads. Get's around 20 mpg on the highway, and runs 11's in the 1/4. Planning on swapping over to Megasquirt soon though. There's only so much you can do with a carb. After 2 summers of constant tuning I've found the limits of it. Still works great though!

 

interesting. lots of guys going very fast with a blow-through setup. you think that running a dual plane intake may have something to do with your tuning quirks?

 

those are a ebay special. lol i thought they were gunna be cheap parts but im very surprised on how well they fit/feel/work. heavy aluminum parts. i havent raced or beat it yet, just got done breaking it in and working out some carb, timing issues but nothing leaks yet (except my timing cover.) if you want ill send you the link for the guy i got them from.

 

yeah, pm me or post the link up here. i'm interested in them.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polished-Smooth-Tall-SB-Chevy-Center-Bolt-Valve-Covers-1987-1995-305-350-V-8-/131221341108?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8d66c3b4
hats the same excat ones i have. they also have different designs, but overall very impressed. the only thing i had a tough time is the gaskets. i had to glue them and let it sit overnight with weight on top for it to work.

 

The problem with a carb is you only have so many circuits that you can tune, so it's really tough to get the correct linear fuel curve in all rpm and map ranges. For example, in order to have my mixture dialed in nice and lean (14.5-15.2) while cruising down the highway around 18" of vacuum, a little heavier throttle causes the turbo to spool somewhat which throws off the mix and it leans out, even up to around 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. I can go richer on the main jets and PVCR's to fight this, but then it will go too rich cruising over 2200 rpm. The idle, steady cruise and 1/4 throttle acceleration are good, as is WOT, but there are gaps in the fuel curve you just can't cover. Running a blow through setup amplifies these gaps. I just know where the spots are and avoid them while driving. I'm either cruising or WOT most of the time anyways so it's not that big of a deal except on the track coming out of a corner you can't roll on the throttle gradually to keep the back end hooked.

We ran my friends turbo 5.3 with a carb for a year and then he switched to efi. I've driven it with both setups and it's crazy how much more linear the throttle is now. Plus you can through in safe guards in the tune to save your engine should you over boost. Oh and changing "jetting" while driving down the road with a laptop is pretty convenient too

 

"....not that big of a deal except on the track coming out of a corner..."

ah...road race guy with a turbo...cool beans man! your application makes MUCH more sense to be efi then. i'm like most thirdgen guys, a lowly drag racer (heh...sarcasm), so my tuning is much more "all or nothing".

 

Haha well you're pretty fast judging by your sig! I wouldn't consider myself a full blown road race guy just yet, but I've been to a couple track events and it sure is fun! And you are running a T56 in your car huh? I've got respect for guys that can rip a manual trans down the strip, I know it's not that easy to be consistent especially off the line. Hell I couldn't even figure out how to "launch" my 2.2 S10 when I took it to the track once. Lol. I'd love a T56 on the road race track. My converter is a little too loose for it, not to mention it makes a lot of heat. On the strip it's great, but of course there's always a compromise.

 

yessir, t56 in my car. the car has gotten pretty repeatable. a typical outing will have all runs within .1, which is good enough for the stick shift bracket program i'm a part of.

the trans is actually out getting faceplated and a g-force "viper" shaft. it should be pretty stout when i get it back.

 

Work in progress

 

Looks good, love the M/T valve covers and double hump heads.

 

Jupiter Looks good, very neat and clean. Like the under header plug wires.

 

Jupiter I love the look of your engine bay. Very clean and professionally done! Do you have any other pictures of the AC/Heating plumbing on your setup?

I'm in the process of tuning up my 355 carbureted setup and once that process is done I'm looking to reinstall all of the plumbing and AC components that the previous owner took out. Will be very nice to have my car running the way I want it and feeling good inside the car as well.

Again beautiful engine bay and setup!

 

Here's mine...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...c-dscf3536.jpg

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...c-dscf3539.jpg

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...3-dscf3548.jpg

 

 

This is my set up

 

Car looks and sounds great SkinnyZ!

 

Here is mine with the aircleaner off. Running the factory lid when it's on.

CCQjet sitting on my 355.

 

Thanks Matt. Much appreciated.
I think the vavle train noise is a little excessive. It was pointed out to me that the XFI cam lobe profile drops the valve onto the seat very aggressively so that, I think would account for the overall "sewing machine" sound. I've also got more than guide, when at the time of the last tear down, was at the serviceable limit for guide wear. It went back together nonetheless and the result is at least one valve being impossible to quiet down. If I start to pull more oil past the guides this season, the heads will have to come off for another round at the machine shop.
Or maybe some nice aluminum heads, a big fat cam and 12:1 compression.
Then a better convertor, more gear....

 

yeah, never ending cycle man lol

 

Isn't that the truth.
I'll see what living 20 miles away from my new home track does to my development. Hell, I'm 25 minutes from work and can daily drive my buggy with my ET Streets in the nice weather. Hee haw.
In the meantime I'll have to deal with a new carb tune at a new altitiude and weather conditions.

 

Here is my setup




idle sound

 

I see you're combining a carb hat with the OEM filter housing (or appears so as the picture is cut off).
What kind of hood do you have that lets the intake pipe clear your strut tower brace? I'm contemplating much the same approach albeit with the filter case still on the carb and using the OEM housing without the filters.
I've a 2" glass cowl hood and I'm not sure if I would get past my Edelbrock brace (same as yours).

 

 

It is a procharger tall boy carb hat. I used a TM1 intake(very low carb mounting). 1/2 carb spacer(mocked in for nitrous plate in the future). Stock iroc hood. The edelbrock brace was lowered alot and I had to cut the mounting brackets on strut towers. If the brace was installed as made the bar would of been directly in front the carb hat inlet. I also had to run a 90 degree thermostat housing and also dent the underside of the bar a bit to make a bit more clearance by the thermostat. It all fits but just barely

 

Thanks for that.

 

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, Haven't come back to this thread in awhile

 

Here is a more recent picture of my motor
Untitled by garymchalker, on Flickr

 

Which QFT carb is that? (Very nice look by the way.)

 

It's a 750 Slayer

 

I'd thought about a QFT vacuum secondary carb however I wasn't sure how the lack of a secondary metering block was going to affect my tuning. I'd been through that with my (really) old 4160 Holley although back then (30+ years ago) I wasn't nearly as involved in carb tuning as I am now.
Now I see the latest version of the QFT VS carbs have a metering block and four corner idle circuits. I'd like to try the 600 cfm model.

 

personally, i think a 600 will be too small if you opt to go to a vacuum secondary. since secondaries open on demand of the engine, i would go larger than you would typically see with a mechanical secondary carb. i'd go to w 750 if that was the case. just my thoughts/experience on the matter.

 

In all reality, for my smallish cam (224 @.50" intake) and heads (which are 180 cc intake runner, more or less a ported Vortec), peak HP RPMs would be in or around 5700/5800. The basic calculators (as well as some of the more sophistcated ones) show CFM requirments just north of 600 cfm, so yes, you have a point.
I'm currently running a BG 750 VS and I can't say I like it very much. Performance and economy have dropped off since I switched from the Holley 670 Street Avenger VS but I made the change for the BGs tunability.
A fully tunable 680 like the QFT is probably right for what I'm trying to accomplish. That's mid 12's and 25 Imperial MPG (21 US MPG) on the highway. I'm almost there.
I hope this will be my breakout year racing. 20 miles from the local drag strip!

 

305, edelbrock manifold Performer 600cfm carb, almost done!

 

very nice, engine ****!