zNucleaRz

OK i don't know whats wroung with my car but this started just recently when it got cold. When i turn on the car it idels fine 700rpms-900rpms some where in there then i guess it the choke that makes this click noise and the idle jump to 1200 or so to warm the car up after a sitting let the car warm up i tap the gas to get it to idle right again. So i leave the house with the gas depressed it's fine i let go of the gas she starts to shivver badly some times making the car rock. and the idle starts jumping 100-500 up down up down and when i get to a complete stop it dies... but after the cars been on for a while i mean like 20min it goes away. also when the car is cold some times i can stomp it from about 1500rpms and the the idle drops to 500 for like as much as 10 secs then i hear a click like the butterfly opening like it was stuck and it takes off. anyone know what my problem may be? the shivver is kinda anoying when your car is shaking badly.

84TransAm

Welcome to the wonderful world of driving a carbureted car during the winter. Just about every carbureted vehicle performs like this before it is at operating temperature. Take it easy until the car is at operating temperture, i.e. no more than 1/2 throttle or any pedal to the metal shenanigans. The longer the vehicle is on the more tolerant it is to quick throttle jabs without "bogging" or as you described : That's about the only difference in attitude between carbed cars and fuel injected cars during the winter. Just take it easy and you shouldn't have a problem.

zNucleaRz

so it normal for the car to be warm and die? i mnean the temp guage is almost at the first mark and it will die.

84TransAm

No that's definently not normal. How long do you wait for it to warm up before driving it around?

zNucleaRz

oh has to be at least 5-10min cause i wait till it's almost at that mark cause if it's not it trys to die. if i start it and go it does ok for a while then it hits this point and acts like crap then goes back normal it only happens maybe 10min after start up then last 10mins and goes away and if the car was started that moring and ran for at least 30min i can start it 8hours later and drive it away fine it's wierd. i also found to day 1 of my plug wirse the ruber or silcon that goes around the wire is cut... you can see white wire's inside it is this bad? cause i was thinking if may only be running on 7 cylenders when it's cold and 8 when it's warm somthing to do with that wire? maybe?

84TransAm

That may be a problem, it's a good idea to get your wires replaced if you can see the insides of one. Just do all 8 at once, then you know that won't be a problem. Is your idle speed set at the factory settings? How about your timing? These could be factors that would contribute to a problem such as cutting off while the car is reasonably warm but still in the process of warming up.

zNucleaRz

i can't tell you what timing is. i don't even know how to check it for that mater. if you can tell me what i need to do i can do it when it gets light out.

TBI305Camaro

Mine will do this. I just dont think its getting warm enough. Im throwing a 195 degree stat in tomorrow and im gonna see how it does. I also think bumping up the idle just a hair would help. Its idling at about 500rpm now. if i jab the gas it goes back down and jumps below 500 then stutters to stay alive sometimes.

cailen

I experienced your second problem on my trans am (stomping it, the car lowering to 200'ish rpm and taking off up to 10 seconds later).

When the carburetor heats and cools during normal operation, it vibrates and can loosen the bolts holding it on top of the intake manifold, causing a vacuum leak. Find the right torque specifications for your carburetor (there may be two different sized bolts with two different torque specs) and tighten em up.

zNucleaRz

i don't know if this may have caused it well a while back i put osme oil in my car and um forgot to put back the oil cap! it's been off the past cuple of weeks do you think it hurt anything????