single-snorkel air cleaner
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single-snorkel air cleaner
if i do get rid of my single-snorkel air cleaner what should put in replacement for it. could i just install a snazzy looking crome one or is it more efficient to do something else? an advice would be great!
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
For streetability, a dual snorkel is much better than an open element. Either a factory-type setup (getting harder to find, but you can try the classifieds), or a home-made dual snorkel per the tech article on this board.
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Car: 1990 IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH700-R4
yea, go with a dual snorkel unless your going to get some kind of cowl/ram air hood. then go open element.
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Car: 2009 Volvo V50 R Design
Engine: 2.0 turbo diesel
Transmission: 6 speed auto
Axle/Gears: yes, both
I fitted an edlebrock open element about 3 weeks ago. guess what i am running now.
Clue, this pic was taken today.
Clue, this pic was taken today.
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Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: 355 4 bbl
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.73 L/S
I fabricated a dual-snorkel air cleaner from two singles and tested the before and after results with a home-made manometer. I was using a big shop vac to pull the air through.
There was a huge drop in vacuum inside the air cleaner body by installing the second snorkel. Removing the Thermac air valves and the air deflector in the body of the cleaner at the inside end of the snorkel made it flow even better. And it looks factory!
There was a huge drop in vacuum inside the air cleaner body by installing the second snorkel. Removing the Thermac air valves and the air deflector in the body of the cleaner at the inside end of the snorkel made it flow even better. And it looks factory!
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Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: 355 4 bbl
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.73 L/S
Originally posted by fast86z28
rusty got any pics and tips on making your own dual snorkel?
rusty got any pics and tips on making your own dual snorkel?
There is a tech article within Thirdgen.org, it documents essentially the same thing I did, you might want to look at that.
My dual-snorkel unit is just like the one pictured in philoldsmobile's post but with a passenger's side snorkel as well.
I bought two bases from wreckers, a variety of lids with height ranging from stock to 2" higher than stock. I carefully ground the spot welds holding the snorkel to the base, cut an oval hole in the second base and used 'nibblers' to finish the shape of the hole to match the large end of the snorkel.
Then a buddy used a plasma-core welder to weld the second snorkel on, I finished the rough inside edges with epoxy, sanded it down and painted it matte black.
I also removed the ThermAC flaps and actuating rods (but not the diaphragms, to keep the stock look) and capped the hot-air inlets.
I was using a shop vac that claimed 160 cfm (equivalent to just under 100 HP worth of airflow), the manometer readings from inside the air cleaner assembly dropped from about 6 inches of water to about 1/2" after all the modifications.
It was an interesting lesson in where the restriction is. The low-profile F-body filter lid is the majority of the restriction, more than the air filter element itself. It sits down so close to the top of the carb, leaving a ring of maybe 3/4" tall to pull all the air through.
The ThermAC flaps are a pig too, so if you're not using them to pull warm air from the exhaust manifolds I would 'delete' them.
The plastic ducting from the snorkel to the rad support showed no measurable restriction, at this volume of airflow anyway.
There are different styles of air filter lids that fit the same diameter housing, some cone up to the centre, some down. I had better results with the ones that peak in the centre.
If you're using it in a different body with more height to work with a taller lid from an Impala or truck will let you put a much bigger filter in and open up the restriction within the housing.
There is a 'dam' just inside the filter housing where the snorkel meets the base. It forces the air to go around it instead of straight on to the filter. You'll want to lose that.
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Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: 355 4 bbl
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.73 L/S
Originally posted by fast86z28
are the gains that noticable over an open element that its
worth all the work?
are the gains that noticable over an open element that its
worth all the work?
The dual-snorkel allows you to duct cool air into the engine, which is always worth something. It looks more factory too, which was one of my goals.
Right now I'm using a 3" K&N element in a GM crate motor open air cleaner assembly and it runs the fastest with this setup.
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Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: 355 4 bbl
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.73 L/S
Highly tuned short-stroke motors are more sensitive to tuning of the air filter resonance than say a 3.48" stroke 305 or 350.
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One other thing is that if you get a factory dual snorkle it will flow better than the home made because each snorkle is bigger than the singles also meaning it can flow well over twice as much as a stock single.
Ben
Ben
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by 99Hawk120
I've honestly never had road manners problems with the open element in my 84, ever.
I've honestly never had road manners problems with the open element in my 84, ever.
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: LB9
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by five7kid
I certainly did. When cold (20 degrees F) it would stumble off-idle ('bout got smacked at intersections a couple of times). When hot (85 degrees F) in stop and go, as temp got up to 200, it would stumble at part throttle.
I certainly did. When cold (20 degrees F) it would stumble off-idle ('bout got smacked at intersections a couple of times). When hot (85 degrees F) in stop and go, as temp got up to 200, it would stumble at part throttle.
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Car: 2009 Volvo V50 R Design
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Originally posted by five7kid
I certainly did. When cold (20 degrees F) it would stumble off-idle ('bout got smacked at intersections a couple of times). When hot (85 degrees F) in stop and go, as temp got up to 200, it would stumble at part throttle.
I certainly did. When cold (20 degrees F) it would stumble off-idle ('bout got smacked at intersections a couple of times). When hot (85 degrees F) in stop and go, as temp got up to 200, it would stumble at part throttle.
Nearly bid on a maserati 430 quatroporte on ebay.co.uk, on sunday, just before i submited my bid, I rememberd, £2 200 would mean another year (at least) in debt. must buy a house before another car, I can hardly find space to park one, let alone two!!!
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Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
If you want to take advantage of the dual snorkle, get the inlets in some clean air to force some air in. I've been running a open element for quite some time K&N 14x3 on a holley carb. It starts, runs, and drives fine when it's below zero and when it's 100+ degrees. I had to do some tuning when I swapped on the open element-choke, accel pump, idle mix, vacuum secondary spring. Just the normal hollley stuff. I was running a custom (not by me) dual snorkle. The snorkles were small though, and weren't in 'clean' air--above the headlights. Don't expect to be able to change the air cleaner and not do a little tuning.
Nate
Nate
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Car: 1988 Mustang GT
Engine: 302
Transmission: T5
get an open element, a dual snorkel will surely allow you to duct 'cooler' air in... but they don't flow NEARLY as good IMO... go with an open element... plus they look better
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Car: 1978 Chevrolet C10
Engine: 350
Transmission: Turbo 350
i have a harwood 4 inch cowl hood and i built a rear ram air setup, its made out of aluminum, it comes down and sourrounds the open element, and then has a duct to the cowl opening, its on the hood, fully lift off, its one sweet setup that i might be selling soon.
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