Holley Sniffer Test part 2
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 H.O.
Transmission: 700r4
Holley Sniffer Test part 2
About a week or two ago I asked on here if I had a chance of passing admissions out here with a holley 600 carb. I was told to create a couple vacuum leaks. So today I disconected the vacuum advance, and caused another vacuum leak on the side of the carb. So I also put an extra cat on my car to help out, so I went to the test today, I passed the exhaust leak test, the gas cap test, basically I failed the hydrocarbons I had a 6.8 and the standard is .8, carbon monoxide the standard is 15.0 and I had a 21.6. Ugh I have no idea what to do. Does anyone have any suggestions or advice to help me, I need it so bad, the last thing I want is to lose the right to drive my car on the street.
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1991 teal camaro RS rebuilt 96 350 marine motor, comp cam, accel ignition,8mm accel plugs and wires, flowtech headers, stock exhaust, and rear end. (2.73)
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1991 teal camaro RS rebuilt 96 350 marine motor, comp cam, accel ignition,8mm accel plugs and wires, flowtech headers, stock exhaust, and rear end. (2.73)
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Was this an idle-only test, or idle/cruise, what?
Disconnecting your vacuum advance was the wrong thing to do, at the very least.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
Disconnecting your vacuum advance was the wrong thing to do, at the very least.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
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Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by five7kid:
Disconnecting your vacuum advance was the wrong thing to do, at the very least.
</font>
Disconnecting your vacuum advance was the wrong thing to do, at the very least.
</font>
Plug the advance back in, create a vac leak somewhere elese, then dump some gas dry in there.
SSC
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 H.O.
Transmission: 700r4
why is disconecing the vacuum secondarys hurt you on the dyno test?
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1991 teal camaro RS rebuilt 96 350 marine motor, comp cam, accel ignition,8mm accel plugs and wires, flowtech headers, stock exhaust, and rear end. (2.73)
------------------
1991 teal camaro RS rebuilt 96 350 marine motor, comp cam, accel ignition,8mm accel plugs and wires, flowtech headers, stock exhaust, and rear end. (2.73)
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Car: 2002 SOM z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mac:
why is disconecing the vacuum secondarys hurt you on the dyno test?
</font>
why is disconecing the vacuum secondarys hurt you on the dyno test?
</font>
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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...
-=ICON Motorsports=-
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Here's what I do to pass - things can be restored easily: BTW, these were the basic things the manufacturers did in the early 70's to reduce emissions and were why cars ran like do-do.
Retard the static timing 6-8 deg. Increase the idle speed to compensate.
Lean the idle mixture a bit. Turning the idle screws in 1/2 to 1 turn is usually enough. If you have a tach try turning them both in until the RPM drops by 50-75 RPM. This is sort of being done by disconnecting the vacuum advance line but the air leak isn't balanced from side to side.
If you have ported vacuum connect the vacuum advance canister to that. Try and set the idle speed close to what is on the tuneup sticker now that all the basic mis-adjustments are done.
Good luck & cheers,
Duane
Retard the static timing 6-8 deg. Increase the idle speed to compensate.
Lean the idle mixture a bit. Turning the idle screws in 1/2 to 1 turn is usually enough. If you have a tach try turning them both in until the RPM drops by 50-75 RPM. This is sort of being done by disconnecting the vacuum advance line but the air leak isn't balanced from side to side.
If you have ported vacuum connect the vacuum advance canister to that. Try and set the idle speed close to what is on the tuneup sticker now that all the basic mis-adjustments are done.
Good luck & cheers,
Duane
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