BLACK Z

ANd everything that I need to readjust after doing so, the carb is a ccc qjet. Thanks alot

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

Damon

Easy deal.

With the needle valve, seat and float installed you press down simultaneously on the FULCRUM that the float arm pivots around (so it doesn't squirm around) and on the INLET VALVE side of the arm. This will cause the float to pop up on the other side.

Measure from the END of the float to the top edge of the float bowl. It should be 1/4" down from that edge. If you need to adjust it you bend (yes, bend) the float side of the arm. There is a spot in the arm that is pre-weakened from the factory and that's where you bend it.

Good luck.


[This message has been edited by Damon (edited May 18, 2001).]

BLACK Z

Can I also get some detailed info on adjusting everything htat will get messed up when I do this, like the m/c and tps and what ever else that will need to be adjusted. Thanks

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

Damon

If you don't touch any of the other adjustments while you are in there (M/C rich stop, lean stop, Idle Air Bypass valve, or TPS adjusting arm you won't mess anything up. If it looks like an adjustment screw- don't touch it!

The only real trick to reassembling the carb is the little TPS pushrod. It's about 1/2" long and runs from the bottom of the acclerator pump arm to the top of the TPS plunger. It doesn't want to stay put when you flip the carb air horn back over to reinstall it and will often fall out (into the foat bowl) or get wedged against the side of the TPS plunger, not allowing correct operation of the TPS. A little stiff grease will hold it in it's place while reassembling. Still, having a second set of hands helping to hold stuff in place as you reassemble will make things go a lot easier.