Blue91

I was wondering if anyone has made a rectangle or wedge sub box that fits on top of the gas tank were you store your t-tops.I have three JL 10W6's and want to build a sealed box made out of 3/4" MDF . I made a plan for a rectangle that would sit right behind the rear seats,take up the whole area above the gas tank, and sit even with the top of the rear seats. The dimensions are 40",8",15"and with out bracing,dividing each sub into its own chamber,and the volume of the subs themselves,the internal air space is close to 2.2 cu ft. Each subs air space is rated at .4 to .8 cu ft. Would this box be big enough for those subs? I could angle it and make it bigger if I needed to. Would it hit harder if it was a rectangle? Or a wedge with it angled towards the tail lights so the top of the box would be running parallel with the hatch glass? How would I attach the box without screwing it into the gas tank? Anyone done something like this or somewhat similar? Do you have any pics?I don't really want to make one in the deep well because of all the angle cuts that would have to be made. Sorry for all the questions and Thanks.

DJSexay

rectangle vs wedge will make no difference, however, if you make the angle sharp enough that the subs face the back of the car, then it may sound louder.

As far as attatching, my guess would be to attatch L brackects that are long enough to reach under the plastic trim panels, away from the gas tank, and use bolts, not screws. If you ever had an accident, I would want the nearly 100 lbs of mdf and subs being held back by a few sheet metal screws.

Why not use fiberglass and put it in the well? no angle cuts then.

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custom 3rd gen kickpanels at
http://www.djsexay.com

REZN8R

I did a box like that. I had to angle the front & back to get the extra airspace I needed. The internal volume is right around 2.25 with bracing. I've got pictures in my sig. The amp rack is the main thing keeping it from moving. on the front I have ABS straps screwed into the front of the box and then short screws going into the sheet metal behind the back seats to keep it from sliding backward. The screws aren't long enough to hit the gas tank. Let me know if you have any questions.

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'91 RS 3.1
SSM SFC's
Energy Susp. Hyper-flex kit
GTA Sway bars
Clarion, Phoenix Gold, JL Audio, etc.
Pictures: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...=13412261&f=0]
Quote: "If you can't beat them, arrange to have them beaten."
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Blue91

DJ SEXAY, good idea about the L bracket and bolts I didn't think about that. I've never worked with fiberglass before. How hard would it be to make a box that fills the entire deep well with no prior experience with fiberglass? How much would it cost in raw materials? How much would it weigh compared to MDF?

REZN8R, nice unique install. I like the neons. Isn't 2.25 cubes a little too much for the single sub? Or do you have multiple subs somwhere out of sight? How many chambers is your box?

I want to build a rectangle sub box that's close to flush with the top of the rear seats. Then make a board that covers everything but the subs. Make the cover board sit on top of the trim peices and box. So it countours to the sides of the whole hatch area. All you would be seeing is the subs themselves and the rest of the hatch area would be flat with the coverboard. I'd viynl the cover board after it's cut out. Then put the amp and cap in an amp rack and bolt it in the deep well underneath the coverboard. Anyone ever done this before? Does anyone see any problems that might occur with this setup? Any comments? Soory for so many questions in one post again Thanks

DJSexay

a glass box in the well would take about $80 in materials (That's a high estimate, giving you some fluff for mistakes).

Not too hard to do. Just cover the entire well very, very, very well with masking tape, then packing take. The masking tape will stick to the carpter better, then put packing tape over the masking tape because resin will not go through packing tape (the heavy clear kind). Then cover everyhing in turtle wax, then begin laying fiberglass.

mike

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custom 3rd gen kickpanels at
http://www.djsexay.com

Blue91

DJ SEXAY, Thanks for the info,what do you think of my box and coverboard plans? Will it rattle a lot? Think it will look good ? If the coverboard and sub grills are both black,with 10 percent tint on the hatch window,will it be somewhat stealth for someone who dose'nt know it's there? Thanks

REZN8R

I wanted to do a trim piece over the whole thing, but it would be kind of difficult to fit the contours of the trim pieces with wood. I think it woul be better done in fiberglass. Right now I'm still working on prepping some DJ kicks for vinyl.

As for the airspace, that's the reccomended by JL for a single 12W6 in a ported box. There's only one chamber with two braces, one on each side of the sub.

Blue91

I wasn't going to countour the board to the the trim pieces themselves. I meant countour to the edges of the hatch. So it's just under the rubber seal around the edges. So the board it self would be one large flat piece. No angles on it. It would look like there was no hatch area space at all. Like it was flat from the top of the seats back with no deep well or dips at all. It's kind of hard to explain. Anyway,with everything covered up,I won't have to make the box or amp rack look pretty or cover with carpet. I would just have to make the board itself look nice because that's the only thing showing.