what subs/amp
05-23-2001, 08:52 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 458
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
what subs/amp
I finally got my new stereo hooked up. here's what I'm running now.
Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P31
Dash Speakers: Pioneer 4x6, 2-way 65W handling
Sail Speakers: Pioneer 6x9, 2-way 140w handling
I had the bose system before, so I still have the kick panels.. I wouldn't be opposed to mounting some speakers in them if anyone knows of some that will physically fit inside the boxes.
Right now I have really clear/crisp highs and mids. My 6x9's had a lot more bass response when they were in my 87. I think that's b/c of the material "box" that was behind the mounting plate in cars that came with 6x9's in the sails. I had to go to a junkyard and pull the plates, but the boxes pretty much desentigrated.
Anyway on to the topic. I have a custom box for 2 12's, fits very nicely in the trunk. I'm on a small budget, and i'm not looking for much "bump" I just want to hold up the bottom end so to speak. I don't listen to rap, or anything that's heavily reliant on bass. I listen to a lot of Pink Floyd, Lynard Skynard, Hendrix, SRV, basically the old stuff. Just to give you an idea of what kind of sound I'm looking for. I was thinking about getting the JBL "Loud + Clear" 12's with a Jensen XA2125. But I don't know much about car-audio selection.. if this was a guitar application, I'd know EXACTLY what I wanted.. but i'm lost on cars.. probably b/c the amps are all solid-state..lol(my guitar amps are all tube.)
Anthony
------------------
previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.
Current ride: 1992 Camaro RS, K&N, Flowmaster, 305, T5, Black, T-tops, 74k miles.
Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P31
Dash Speakers: Pioneer 4x6, 2-way 65W handling
Sail Speakers: Pioneer 6x9, 2-way 140w handling
I had the bose system before, so I still have the kick panels.. I wouldn't be opposed to mounting some speakers in them if anyone knows of some that will physically fit inside the boxes.
Right now I have really clear/crisp highs and mids. My 6x9's had a lot more bass response when they were in my 87. I think that's b/c of the material "box" that was behind the mounting plate in cars that came with 6x9's in the sails. I had to go to a junkyard and pull the plates, but the boxes pretty much desentigrated.
Anyway on to the topic. I have a custom box for 2 12's, fits very nicely in the trunk. I'm on a small budget, and i'm not looking for much "bump" I just want to hold up the bottom end so to speak. I don't listen to rap, or anything that's heavily reliant on bass. I listen to a lot of Pink Floyd, Lynard Skynard, Hendrix, SRV, basically the old stuff. Just to give you an idea of what kind of sound I'm looking for. I was thinking about getting the JBL "Loud + Clear" 12's with a Jensen XA2125. But I don't know much about car-audio selection.. if this was a guitar application, I'd know EXACTLY what I wanted.. but i'm lost on cars.. probably b/c the amps are all solid-state..lol(my guitar amps are all tube.)
Anthony
------------------
previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.
Current ride: 1992 Camaro RS, K&N, Flowmaster, 305, T5, Black, T-tops, 74k miles.
05-23-2001, 01:03 PM
#3
Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: SC
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you're on a tight budget and are listening to mostly old rock and arn't really concerned about crazy SPL, I would go with a single sealed 10. I know you already have a box for 2 12's, but you may want to look into building one for a single 10 if you're good like that. Depending on the quality of the current box you have, if you built a box it may actually be of better quality, and you can build it to the specs of the sub (plus you're probably save alot of space in the back), and you don't have to worry about feeing power to 2 12's. You usually build a box to the airspace recommended by the sub, not the other way around. And I'm sure you could sell your current box if you did decide to build your own. A single sealed 10 would provide nice tight bass that would be able to keep up with rock music. And look for one with a fairly high sensitivity since you're not looking to run crazy power to it. For an amp you've again got options. If you want a seperate sub amp, look for a 2 channel bridgable or mono amp that puts out about 150-200 REAL watts RMS. Or you could get a 4 channel amp and run your fronts with 2 channels (will really make the mids and highs really shine) and run the sub off of the other two channels bridged. And KlayBuRn's right, don't cheap out on an amp...thats where distortion comes from. And if you only run a single 10 instead of two drivers, you'd have more money to put towards your amp.
- Mike
- Mike
05-23-2001, 01:19 PM
#4
Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: SC
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh and you CAN get tube amps for your car. 
Phaze Audio, or PPI made/makes some I believe, and there's probably a few other companies that make some. I really dont know much about car audio tube amps though, except that they're supposted to sound warmer/sweeter (never actually heard one in a car though). They're probably expensive though, and I think I heard some where that only the input stage on the PPI tube amp is tube, not the whole amp. You'd almost definatly want to stick with MOSFET amps for your application though, if for nothing else just price/selection. Sorry I just felt like babbeling for a minute.
- Mike
Phaze Audio, or PPI made/makes some I believe, and there's probably a few other companies that make some. I really dont know much about car audio tube amps though, except that they're supposted to sound warmer/sweeter (never actually heard one in a car though). They're probably expensive though, and I think I heard some where that only the input stage on the PPI tube amp is tube, not the whole amp. You'd almost definatly want to stick with MOSFET amps for your application though, if for nothing else just price/selection. Sorry I just felt like babbeling for a minute.- Mike
05-24-2001, 12:01 PM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 458
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mike,
you shouldn't have told me that!!.. Tube sound in my opinion is superior to solid state in EVERY WAY. It is(in guitar/bass amps) much "warmer", and the tonality is more correct. They get hella hot though.. and are expensive as hell. For some reason, in guitar amps anyway, tube power ratings compared to solid state ratings is like comparing apples and oranges. My guitar amp is 60wx2 @4 ohms.. and will literally out scream a 120wx2 solid state amp w/ the same speakers.. only my amp cost at least twice what the solid state did.
back on topic now. I have roughly 1.35 cu. ft. of usable air in each section of my box. I went to an audio store, and he wants to have me make a plate to mount 2 Eclipse 10's in my box and push a 400w Planet Audio Amp. I think I may actually build my own box, and mount it the same way the bose rear panel is.. like a trunk cover so I can still use my trunk. what do ya'll think about that. Make a 1x 10 enclosure with aroun 1.25 cu. ft of usable air. and mount it with some henges just like the factory trunk cover.
on the flip side I can get 2 of the new pioneer 12's and an amp for free. but I don't want to put them in if it will sound like ****. My car's audio system doesn't have to be perfect, but if the tones are way off, it drives the musician in my right up the damn walls.
Anthony
p.s.. sorry if i'm not making any sense.
you shouldn't have told me that!!.. Tube sound in my opinion is superior to solid state in EVERY WAY. It is(in guitar/bass amps) much "warmer", and the tonality is more correct. They get hella hot though.. and are expensive as hell. For some reason, in guitar amps anyway, tube power ratings compared to solid state ratings is like comparing apples and oranges. My guitar amp is 60wx2 @4 ohms.. and will literally out scream a 120wx2 solid state amp w/ the same speakers.. only my amp cost at least twice what the solid state did.
back on topic now. I have roughly 1.35 cu. ft. of usable air in each section of my box. I went to an audio store, and he wants to have me make a plate to mount 2 Eclipse 10's in my box and push a 400w Planet Audio Amp. I think I may actually build my own box, and mount it the same way the bose rear panel is.. like a trunk cover so I can still use my trunk. what do ya'll think about that. Make a 1x 10 enclosure with aroun 1.25 cu. ft of usable air. and mount it with some henges just like the factory trunk cover.
on the flip side I can get 2 of the new pioneer 12's and an amp for free. but I don't want to put them in if it will sound like ****. My car's audio system doesn't have to be perfect, but if the tones are way off, it drives the musician in my right up the damn walls.
Anthony
p.s.. sorry if i'm not making any sense.
05-24-2001, 12:04 PM
#6
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Orlando,Fl, USA
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A good amp will help poor speakers. I had a real nice SAS tube with a Rockford amp and it sounded the best in my camaro so far. I whish they never stole it.. I now have 2 pionner 10's but need a box for it...
06-07-2001, 10:37 PM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 458
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
update,
all the stereo stuff went together nicely. I've got crisp highs, nice mids, and finally got the 6x9's to produce some bass(much tuning required).
I just got a 10" sub, and the wood to make the box out of. Took several measurements, and went through the trouble of making a cardboard mock-up of the box to make sure it fits in the center of the trunk. The enclosure will be sealed, and have ~ 1.05 cu. ft of air.
the sub is a Pioneer TS-W28C, 10" sub, Max power 400W, nominal power 120W, 90dB sensitivity, frequency response 20-4500Hz.
I'd appreciate a recommendation on an amp. Pioneer's warranty statement and all that says to go w/ an amp w/ slightly less RMS than the nominal rating. As I've said before I'm pretty lost on terms and all that good stuff in the audio world. Give me the equipment, and I'll find my sound. Right now I'm thinking about the Lightning Bolt B.150.2, the Pinoeer GMx552, or the US Acoustics USX2050. I'm on kind of a mission to prove that you can make a good system w/ pioneer's stuff.. but seeing as the speakers and the head unit are all pioneer, I don't guess that straying on the amp will defeat my "cause". Thanks in advance.
Anthony
------------------
previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.
Current ride: 1992 Camaro RS, K&N, Flowmaster, 305, T5, Black, T-tops, 76k miles.
all the stereo stuff went together nicely. I've got crisp highs, nice mids, and finally got the 6x9's to produce some bass(much tuning required).
I just got a 10" sub, and the wood to make the box out of. Took several measurements, and went through the trouble of making a cardboard mock-up of the box to make sure it fits in the center of the trunk. The enclosure will be sealed, and have ~ 1.05 cu. ft of air.
the sub is a Pioneer TS-W28C, 10" sub, Max power 400W, nominal power 120W, 90dB sensitivity, frequency response 20-4500Hz.
I'd appreciate a recommendation on an amp. Pioneer's warranty statement and all that says to go w/ an amp w/ slightly less RMS than the nominal rating. As I've said before I'm pretty lost on terms and all that good stuff in the audio world. Give me the equipment, and I'll find my sound. Right now I'm thinking about the Lightning Bolt B.150.2, the Pinoeer GMx552, or the US Acoustics USX2050. I'm on kind of a mission to prove that you can make a good system w/ pioneer's stuff.. but seeing as the speakers and the head unit are all pioneer, I don't guess that straying on the amp will defeat my "cause". Thanks in advance.
Anthony
------------------
previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.
Current ride: 1992 Camaro RS, K&N, Flowmaster, 305, T5, Black, T-tops, 76k miles.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jersyboyy
Exterior Parts for Sale
22
04-01-2012 06:29 PM
