KlayBuRn

i want your personal opinion here, or anyone else's for that matter...

im about to drop in my system...here is it...

i was going to go with a wall, but i figured that 2 nicely installed subs would do just about the same, its all about installation, not how many subs ya got right ?

its all Fosgate, so if you hate Fosgate to begin with, dont hate me too...heh

the only thing non-fosgate, is my head unit, a Kenwood Excelon Z919 (the mp3 one)...
4x6's in the dash powered by deck
the 3 way 6x9's powered by punch 120.2
2 15' Power DVC's each being pushed by a bd1000a1

im putting my box firing off the hatch(sitting up on the hump instead of in the well)...

question? should i put the 6x9's in the pillars...or put them on the sub box firing forward or some other direction?

box is 3/4' MDF wood, we are going to silicone the screws or something, massive seal the inside, line the box with some stuffing, and carpet it the same color as my interior carpet...will mount amps at the bottom or box by the well, or make an extra board on it so i can use my beauty plates also, if you can picture that in your head, then you should know what im talking about...

Power : 190 AMP high performance alternator (its got some hot thing in it that it goes like 220 AMP when it gets warm, i dunno, i paid $750 for this and 4 gauge wire running from alt to engine and alt to battery)...

2 Streetwire 1050 CCA batteries
2 Vortex 900 CCA batteries
4 1.0 Farad lightning caps(got me one of those cap distro blocks, they are tight)

my power is running all in a line, i got dual battery clamps, so it runs off streetwires battery in front, hits 100 amp fuse, goes to other 3 batteries, then hits my cap distro block, hits 300 amp fuse, then goes to block for 2 bd1000a1's, then goes from that block to my other block for my 120.2, might get a 100.2 or so for the dash also, but i dunno, would it be worth it?)

all ground seperate for the most part, redoing the head unit also, going to have its own power wire ran to it(someone had recommended hooking up a .5 farad cap to it, would you recommend that also?), ran a new ground for it, and hooked something up to the ignition...

well, im wondering if my rambling on is any good...when i get this done, im going to get a digital camera the day we install, so ill have massive pictures if anyone cares...

any comments/suggestions?

GndPrx

I would keep the 6x9's in the sail panels. You would end up needing to build seperate enclosures inside of your enclosure were you to put the 6x9's in with the subs. You do not want to have a smaller speaker such as these in the same airspace as those subs, they won't last really long and will sound rather horrible with the effects of the sub pressure inside the box.

You will really want to keep an eye on your electronics inside the vehicle. This sort of power should it spike through your electrical system or short out will not play well with your car's computer. Be sure that the regulator on this alternator is top quality and have some sort of failsafe to prevent any serious spikes through the rest of the vehicle.

Also keep in mind that alternators of this output generally need to be above 1500-2000 RPM's in order to charge the batteries sufficiently.

Quote:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
2 Streetwire 1050 CCA batteries
2 Vortex 900 CCA batteries
4 1.0 Farad lightning caps(got me one of those cap distro blocks, they are tight)

my power is running all in a line, i got dual battery clamps, so it runs off streetwires battery in front, hits 100 amp fuse, goes to other 3 batteries, then hits my cap distro block, hits 300 amp fuse, then goes to block for 2 bd1000a1's, then goes from that block to my other block for my 120.2, might get a 100.2 or so for the dash also, but i dunno, would it be worth it?)

Seems like overkill on the batteries and caps (Just my opinion). Batteries will give you the key off playing time and the caps will provide you with short bursts, but why so many? Are you looking to do SPL competitions?

Quote:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
all ground seperate for the most part, redoing the head unit also, going to have its own power wire ran to it(someone had recommended hooking up a .5 farad cap to it, would you recommend that also?), ran a new ground for it, and hooked something up to the ignition...

There is zero need to put any sort of cap on the head unit. It would provide no benifit what so ever

Quote:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
well, im wondering if my rambling on is any good...when i get this done, im going to get a digital camera the day we install, so ill have massive pictures if anyone cares...

any comments/suggestions?

All in all it looks like your heading in the right direction, but you may want to really plan out your install a little further based on some of the things that I pointed out. I'm sure others will put in their comments.

Looks like you have good equipment to work with and it would benifit you in the long run to spend a little extra time planning the install to head off any potential problems before they can happen.

Good luck


------------------
Carl
CarAudio Resources

KlayBuRn

good point on the 6x9's, i knew about the alternator, and the overkill on batteries issue...

i had before this 2 15' XLC's being pushed by a 800.2, and my voltage still suffered, thats why i went with that, plus, i got 2 of the caps for free, and i traded my old premier amp for $100 and 2 caps, so thats why i have them, the batteries, i dunno, i would like to enter competition with this, but im not going to get really really super serious about it...

you guys know anything about the Excelon z919?

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

Anyway, I'd strongly suggest building the box for the trunk area instead of on top of the gas tank. You'll get more output by moving it back. It will also fit a hell of a lot better and give you more room for mounting all your other junk. You're also going to have a disproportional amount of bass capabilities compared to highs, so I'd consider investing in a set of FNX or FNQ (whatever the better 2 sets are) 6.5" components in some kick panels.

I'd also decide what your goal is for all of this. If it's to compete, then you'll need those batteries and a good cap bank for when you "burp" your subs at SPL competitions. If it's for the simple pleasure of deafining yourself around town, then a couple farads worth of capacitance is good, and forget about extra batteries. Your alternator is going to be working hard enough as it is.

Is the bd1000a1 the class D amp? You're going to want rockford's class D amp so that you can keep your current draw lower. This will reduce the need for all of that ungodly electrical system crap, other than the high amperage alternator.

You should also have more power for your front speakers, especially if you take my advice and get components. You're talking about over 1000 watts of bass power and 10 watts of power for the rest of the frequency range. This is hugely disproportunate. Look into a 400a4 to power all of your interior speakers.

Anyway, back to the box. Whatever box you choose, brace the hell out of the inside of it. Use an internal divider to make separate chambers for the two subs, plus put a couple 2x4s to support opposing walls.

Like GndPrx said, the .5 farad cap on the head unit is useless. So is running new wire to it. The factory wiring will be fine, especially if you wind up using it for pre out-only use. I rewired my IROC because it came stock with an AM radio, and the idiot before me did a number on it, but otherwise I would have left it stock.

Anyway, good luck, and let me know if you have any more questions.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

KlayBuRn

as far as i know, the amp is like a class B and a class D combo...or i might be on crack

but anyways, thanks for the opinions and comments, they helped me out...

KlayBuRn

Rockford Fosgate Power bd1000.1
500W Mono Subwoofer Amplifier



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you're looking for a dedicated, bass-driving animal, say hello to the Big Dog — Rockford Fosgate's Power bd1000.1! Equipped with Class bd technology (Rockford Fosgate's patented digital amp design), this beast produces an amazing 75% efficiency rating with a highly stable output. Even under heavy loads, it will maintain steady power flow and a cool temperature, saving your music from clipping and distortion.

Class bd efficiency also allows Rockford Fosgate to design this amp with a smaller footprint, giving you more installation options than high-power amps usually afford.

Key Features:
Class bd technology
1000 watts x 1 at 2 ohms
selectable 50-250 Hz variable low-pass crossover, 24 dB/octave
MEHSA mounting technology increases the heat transfer from the MOSFET output devices to the heat sink, for higher power output, lower operating temperatures, and greater reliability.
TOPAZ noise-killing differential inputs eliminate 80% of ground loop noise between the head unit and the amp.
NOMAD advanced protection circuitry monitors temperature, voltage, current and impedence, and provides "intelligent" shut-down protection without limiting system performance.
preamp outputs for easy connection to a second amplifier
wired remote control of Punch Bass (0-18 dB centered at 45 Hz) — gives you fingertip control of your bass impact
subsonic filter removes frequencies below the range of human hearing for increased efficiency
100-amp fuse and fuse holder required
dimensions: 14-7/16"W (10-7/8" without endcaps) x 2-7/16"H x 9-7/8"D
3-year warranty

there ya go...since the DVC are 2x4 ohm, wiring in uh, however the positive wire comes off the amp, and hits on of the coils, then goes to the other(to achieve a 2 ohm load, dont know if thats series or paralell), to get 1000RMS which is what the DVC peak out at...