Whining noise with new cd player
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Pineville, NC US
Car: An '87 Italian Retard Out Cruisin'
Engine: LS1 install in progress
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Whining noise with new cd player
put in a new pioneer cd player last week and now I have that whining that goes along with rpm's. I replaced an old pioneer cd player with a new pioneer and ended up hooking it up EXACTLEY the same way as my old unit was. I have three amps in the system but I didnt touch them or any other part of the system besides the wires behind the cdplayer itself. Now my question is why if I hooked it up the same way, does my new cd player create this rpm noise when my old one didn't? It very quite but its there and I want to get rid of it. Also there is no noise obviously if the car is off but the radio is on if that matters?
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1987 Iroc 350
GTS headlight/tail light covers
Camaro SS Wheels w/Sumitomo HTR ZII 275 rear, 255's in front
K&N filters
Adjustable Borla cat back
Large tube runners
ported plenum
Holley afpr
SLP 1 3/4" headders (not installed yet)
FUTURE GOAL:
To go really F'in fast!!!
Some pics of it at
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...949&Auth=false
------------------
1987 Iroc 350
GTS headlight/tail light covers
Camaro SS Wheels w/Sumitomo HTR ZII 275 rear, 255's in front
K&N filters
Adjustable Borla cat back
Large tube runners
ported plenum
Holley afpr
SLP 1 3/4" headders (not installed yet)
FUTURE GOAL:
To go really F'in fast!!!
Some pics of it at
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...949&Auth=false
#2
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
Likes: 9
From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
You have a ground loop. New deck or not, chances are that you have an inadequate amplifier ground. Remove the amp ground, scrape it up a little, and re-attach it securely. All amps should ground to the same spot on the chassis. I always use a distribution block and run 1 ground wire to chassis. If regrounding your amps doesn't fix it, reground the head unit to a bolt near the top of the passenger side kick panel, right under the dash. Run 12 gauge wire from behind the deck to the ground. As with the others, make sure that is grounded properly to bare metal with some of those scratchy star washers.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
#3
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 1
From: So. Cal, L.A.
Car: '88 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: Built 383 TPI
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt, 3.27:1 Posi
I have had this same problem and tried all kinds of different grounds. It only hapens with Sonys though. The only thing that attacked the noise was a filter. The kind that you install inline with the RCA cables. But regrounding might help. I don't see why your ground would get messed up just by changing head units though, but like I said, in my case, only the filter helped.
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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4
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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Pineville, NC US
Car: An '87 Italian Retard Out Cruisin'
Engine: LS1 install in progress
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by stingerssx:
I don't see why your ground would get messed up just by changing head units though,
</font>
I don't see why your ground would get messed up just by changing head units though,
</font>
------------------
1987 Iroc 350
GTS headlight/tail light covers
Camaro SS Wheels w/Sumitomo HTR ZII 275 rear, 255's in front
K&N filters
Adjustable Borla cat back
Large tube runners
ported plenum
Holley afpr
SLP 1 3/4" headders (not installed yet)
FUTURE GOAL:
To go really F'in fast!!!
Some pics of it at
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...949&Auth=false
#5
When I put my CD player (Clarion) in I put the ground for my into the car's wiring harness' ground (black wire I think). Is this ok? Or could this me also causing my whining?
------------------
Mike Kenny
Current: 1991 RS 305 TBI
Past: 1990 RS 305 TBI (A woman forgot what red lights are for)
Current: mostly stock - newer 305 w/ 12,000 on it
Eclipse speakers all around w/ 10" tube powered by a Alpine V12 in back
K&N filter w/XStream flow lid - It is sweet!!
Future: 2" Cowl hood
------------------
Mike Kenny
Current: 1991 RS 305 TBI
Past: 1990 RS 305 TBI (A woman forgot what red lights are for)
Current: mostly stock - newer 305 w/ 12,000 on it
Eclipse speakers all around w/ 10" tube powered by a Alpine V12 in back
K&N filter w/XStream flow lid - It is sweet!!
Future: 2" Cowl hood
#6
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
Likes: 9
From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
In most cases, using the factory ground is sufficient, but I have had cases where I needed to move the radio ground over to the passenger side kick panel to eliminate the noise. The filter that Stinger mentioned is called a Ground Loop Isolator, and should only be considered a last resort if you are unable to eliminate the ground loop.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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#8
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
Likes: 9
From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
It's impossible to know whether it's coming from the amp or from a processor or the deck without troubleshooting it. Although the amp is usually the culpret, it's not always the case. I've had crossovers induce the whine and I've had head units do it. I built a pair of "noise sniffers" for trouble shooting. I removed the 1/8" headphone jack from a pair of headphones and wired a female RCA jack to it instead. This allows me to listen to the line-level output from all signal stages to better identify the source of noise.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
#9
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jim85IROC:
You have a ground loop. New deck or not, chances are that you have an inadequate amplifier ground. Remove the amp ground, scrape it up a little, and re-attach it securely. All amps should ground to the same spot on the chassis. I always use a distribution block and run 1 ground wire to chassis. If regrounding your amps doesn't fix it, reground the head unit to a bolt near the top of the passenger side kick panel, right under the dash. Run 12 gauge wire from behind the deck to the ground. As with the others, make sure that is grounded properly to bare metal with some of those scratchy star washers.
</font>
You have a ground loop. New deck or not, chances are that you have an inadequate amplifier ground. Remove the amp ground, scrape it up a little, and re-attach it securely. All amps should ground to the same spot on the chassis. I always use a distribution block and run 1 ground wire to chassis. If regrounding your amps doesn't fix it, reground the head unit to a bolt near the top of the passenger side kick panel, right under the dash. Run 12 gauge wire from behind the deck to the ground. As with the others, make sure that is grounded properly to bare metal with some of those scratchy star washers.
</font>
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