Jaws031

im getting ready to do my sound system in my 88 camaro and i just want some advice. I got a alpine head unit and im going with 1 kicker l7 15 with a ported box . im wondering what kind of amp to go with for the sub also what kind of amp for the other four speakers.

Jaws031

anyone

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I've been out of car audio for a few years but an amp with a sub sonic filter for ported.

Probably want 1000 watts RMS to it. Amp choices would depend on your OHMs on the sub.

Wiring diagrams:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161

I'm spanking my 18s with some old school JBL BP1200.1s (1200 watts RMS). I run one amp per sub at 1 ohm. They are sealed because it doesn't have a sub sonic filter and I don't have the room to do 2 ported 18s in a firebird.

NathanLewis

Audioque.com

Go to that link and Get the AQ1200

Puts out rated power, has all the controls you need (subsonic, and such) and comes with a bass **** with a clipping light.

Those amps are built like tanks.

Jaws031

i got the amp from my old system ( memphis pr.500.1) but i dont think its going to be enough power for the kicker sub

Jaws031

my goal is to get my camaro to sound like his truckhttp://www.youtube.com/user/meade916#p/u/35/gQaDMmVt0NA

NathanLewis

Man, I suggest you read up on sound waves, and car audio a little more.

One 15 inch kicker is not going to even come remotely near like steve meades 4 18's off "30,000 watts".


30,000 watts is like unbelievable power, and that man spent alot of money and time in hooking all of that up.



Just get that amp I linked, it puts out a "real" 1200 watts, build and tune your subwoofer box to 32hz to hit the lows.

Jaws031

i know that one 15 isnt going to be close to what he got. Im just trying to put a system that's knocking pic of walls, shacking house windows, and a system that can be heard 3 blocks over. with out spending thousands on it

NathanLewis

Well, Its not just the sub that is going to automatically make it loud. Its the amps ability to put out power. 1000 watts is good for some thump thump.

When you start moving up larger amps that put out 2500-3500, then you can really feel it, make your ears sore, and disturb everyone around you.


IF you can, grab another kicker 15. I'm sure both can handle 2000 watts together easily. Then go back to that site I showed you, and grab the AQ2200 instead, and wire it to 1 ohm.


Build a box in the back seat area for a ported box. Upgrade your electrical with the big 3, and dry cell battery, and 0 gauge wiring.

You will more than likely out beat anyone else's system around your area, because that right there will be a nasty setup.

Jaws031

why is it so hard to find someone or a car audio that will make a box

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Just be sure who ever you pay makes a decent box. I got stuck with a $200 box from a Local Car Audio place back in College that was non-removeable and was just particle board. They didn't even cut the sub openings to the correct size. I eventually had to remove it using a sledgehammer because it was useless even after I siliconed the edges and used plumber's putty around the subs it still had multiple air leaks (sealed box).

Boxes should be made from MDF not particle board, be properly sealed with silicone, and constructed with screws and liquid nail. It's always better to have the sub attachments holes for screws drilled and have t-nuts installed. This provides a good metal to metal contact to hold the sub down. Else you have a metal screw and a wood box. Wood will weaken and elongate the holes eventually if the subs are removed a lot.

When I rebuilt my box out of fiberglass I had ~$650 in supplies all together. Most of that being cloth and resin, which I still have about 40-50 lbs of biaxial cloth left over. Once done it was a 95 pounds (yes I held and weighed it) fiberglass box that took up the whole hatch area (~7 cubic feet, 3.5 per sub). It uses a MDF divider wall, t-nuts, and Allen head bolts.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Interesting. I am in the middle of building a fiberglass box to fit in the well, similar to what fireturd is describing. I'm at ~$300 worth of fiberglass and resin cost so far, and I might be half done. This is a long term, backburner project however.
I believe I have the JBL 1200.1 amp, from a few years back, and a Kicker S15L7 dual 2ohm voice coil sub as well. I had it in my previous car and it worked well, but haven't had the chance to finish the box to put it into the TA yet.
The Kicker solobaric works substantially better in a ported vs a sealed box, I tried both. A 5-6 cubic ported box would work perfectly for the 15" version, and that's what i'm intending.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Depending on which JBL BP1200.1 you have it might not have a subsonic filter. I know mine are the old models from 7 years back or so. They were the model before they switched to those smoke plexiglass versions and mine did not have a subsonic filter.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

i charge a good amount for our boxes to be honest, theyre a pain to build in comparison to others, you need to compensate for the angle of the well, the fact that you have a big hatch buldge in the way, a lot of cutting and measuring.

And the whole ground shaking bass thing cheap.....good luck. a single 15 is just going to give you sloppy bass that rattles, and you do need to do more research on car audio, multiple smaller subs will actually give you a bigger output because youre pushing a larger total surface area and clearer sound because the voice coils can control the driver much more efficiently.

if you want the kind of bass to shake a house then you should look into a different car, it will be way too expensive to build a system in our cars to get that kind of reaction without building a box for the rear well, and one to go in place of the back seats. There are tricks to getting more db's out of a setup but not with a single sub, especially an L7.

also another thing you need to consider is the amount of dynamat youre going to need, and no matter how much you use the urethane bumper will still rattle like crazy....

just my 2cents,....

haroanarchist

Getting stuff shaking is easy
I did it with 3 12w0-8
Wired to about 2.75 ohms
12w0-8 are rated at 125 rms

on a crappy jensen 350 mono block

could get the rear view mirror of the car next to me to vibrate bad enough they couldn't see out of it.
This was in a montecarlo

my bird is gonna have 1 compvx 10'' pushed by a rockford p500 in a 2.5 ft^3 sealed box

not sure exactly how it will sound but pretty sure it will shake every thing down to about 30 hz and having the cross over set to about 110hz it will give me some nice tight bass without being to exaggerated

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Jl doesnt make a w0 in an 8.....

In any case does anyone even,know the enclosure requirments for a solobaric kicker15? 6cu ft. good luck with that, my entire install bay busted up laughing shaking their heads

haroanarchist

12w0-8

hmm the 8 is for 8 ohm's

the 12 is for the size

w0 being the model

they sure do make 12w0 and they also make 8w0 so before you try calling some one out + read that i was talking about a 12'' speaker not an 8'' which happens that JL does make a 8'' w0

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Im sorry I didnt catch the 12. You need to chill out dude thats a pretty nasty response. And just for curiositys sake how could you run an 8 ohm driver on a 350 watt amp a jensen at that and get enough bass to "shake" the next cars mirror? That doesnt add up

haroanarchist

Sorry don't like being called a lier
but
the 12w0-8 is a 125 watt speaker
with 3 of them wired together in i got them to about 2.75 ohm
the jensen amp is rated to 2 ohms

3 x 125 is 375
so they were only slightly underpowered

but the displacement of 3 12'' speakers even slightly underpowered has a lot thump

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Wow I missed alot apparenttly, 3drivers makes alot more sense, ive seen people try to run a single 8 ohm driver which is....pointless lol that sounds alot better now the shaking makes sense THATS an example of surface area like I mentioned before

kongjacy

never met it before,i got a lot from this,thanks.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

your gonna get alot of rattle. with just my 2 12" in the back i rattle my license plate, spare tire, door lock rods, mirrors, and the stuff around me. your cars gonna make alot of noise.

zayne0

I hope I give some good advice. I have been doing car audio for a while as a side job aside from custom painting and airbrushing. The most important thing to subs is finding the sweet spot on the box for the subs, box size and port size are crucial. and you wanna over power your sub by about 150 watts, and a high quality class d digital amp with a bass line driver to clean the signal makes a huge difference.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Generally speaking if you over power your sub youre going to fry it, if you use jl they give you an rms rating that is perfect, and theyve also got an extremely strict warranty, if you overload it youre SOL with a nice smelly paper weight every reputable company will give you a specific port setup that works best, if you port it make sure to round edges if youre using round ports and if youre doing a slot port its extremely important to subtract the volume of materials used from the internal volume or you will throw it off. Best way to start any box is to pick your amp and sub combination then build the box based off the optimum specs, I will warn you that a port normally takes 2 to sometimes 3 times the volume, our cars are not good for thia we are limited by the well and the hatch motor, im an installer andeven I was iffy on building our boxes, theres alot of angles to deal with and space issues, and yes anybody can build our box but the key factor is wether it is built right. You can build it and throw a very nice sub in there and just have a turd of a setup, most people think bass just rattles and shakes but it is so much more than that there are highs and lows that a poorly built box cannot produce

jchaussee

How much to build a box?

Shadow Z

iTrader: (2)

Boom boom boom boom.

88TransAmGuy

iTrader: (3)

88TransAmGuy

iTrader: (3)

Before i knew anything about car audio, i bought a 15 inch Rockford Fosgate p1 sub. It came with a nonported box and a cheapo supposedly 1000 watt amp. I tuned it to what I thought was right, and the thing lasted about 9 seconds before it blew on me. It sounds cool for a bit,but it ends up being really annoying, Like the past few members above said,our cars arent really ment to handle that much power. Having a car that can shake windows and hurt your ears is cool for a while but like i said,it gets really irritating and annoying keeping up with it and having every single song be just bass. IM now running 2 10 inch MB quart discus subs with a custom non ported box i made with a 800 W Rockford amp. Its not that much power at all, but it sounds clear and it still shakes the spoiler on the car,as well as the mirrors. It has good sounding bass,but its not annoying to the point where an entire song is just BOOM BOOM BA BA BOOM the entire time. Heres a quick video of mine before i tuned them,this is when they still were set with the factory settings. As you can see its not much power,but it still sounds cool and clear. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZUOU76m-34
If i were you, id just get 2 12 inch subs and a 1000 watt amp. I think that would be more than enough. Meade has spent THOUSANDS on his audio system. The kind of money you cant get unless you run a business like him. YOu also have to consider he has a Tahoe,a large truck with enough space in it for sound waves to echo.

88TransAmGuy

iTrader: (3)

BTW, the song doesnt kick in until about a minute and 8 seconds

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

If you already have a sub, ideally you want an amp that has more power than it can handle. This way, it can take it up to it's limit cleanly, as opposed to an underpowered amp which will distort early and do more damage...

Set the gains right... some people don't hear / understand distortion... so if others use your car, that's why it's good to have the gains set properly... you don't come back to your car after someone else has driven it and raped your speakers...

Some subs are very efficient & don't need a lot of power, on the other end, you have other non efficient subs with huge magnets that require that much power to just move them...It's a fine balance... as noted a great box does wonders...

Many moons ago, when I was heavily into car stereos, we built a ported box for a king cab truck, it had 100 watts to each pioneer sub... we had the parking garage floor moving in Daytona during Spring Break Nationals

Rafael