Complete audio build up and results, with pics
#101
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Car: 87 trans am, 82 trans am
Engine: 350
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Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
The front component woofers fit in the dash. I cut up the stock 4x6 metal bracket to accept the 6.5" woofer. I had to do some small modding of the dash of driver side to make them fit. A little bit of plastic had to be cut away. The passenger side fit fine. The speakers are really shallow, that why I got them. They are 2" deep which is about the maximum you can go. The tweeters are mounted in the A pillars. The reason why I didn't go with kickpanel speakers is because I don't like how they intrude in foot space. And I think they look silly, except for some of the custom made ones I have seen from some members.
Passenger side speaker:
Driver side speaker:
Tweeter in A pillar, disregard the hack in the A-pillar the camera flash makes it look much worse than it really is.
Passenger side speaker:
Driver side speaker:
Tweeter in A pillar, disregard the hack in the A-pillar the camera flash makes it look much worse than it really is.
#102
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Car: 89 IROC
Engine: LSX 6.0 370, TU2 Cam, Fast intake
Transmission: T56 w/ lots of goodies
Axle/Gears: 8.8, Posi, 4.10, 31 Spline
Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
Looks good man. I was thinkin of doin something simular
#104
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Car: 87' IROC
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Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
Ok. I finally took measurements of sub box. It is:
26" long
9.25" tall
12 3/8" wide at top
9 3/4" wide at bottom
The cutout for the power hatch motor is:
starts 3 3/4" from the passenger side edge
is 11 3/4" long
1 3/8" wide
and 5.5" deep
26" long
9.25" tall
12 3/8" wide at top
9 3/4" wide at bottom
The cutout for the power hatch motor is:
starts 3 3/4" from the passenger side edge
is 11 3/4" long
1 3/8" wide
and 5.5" deep
#106
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Car: 87' IROC
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#107
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Car: 85 iroc z
Engine: 355 tpi
Transmission: 7r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
thanks 87350iroc for posting the faceplate i just ordered my humount for the iroc a lot of guys dont want to tell where they got somthing cool you da man!!!
#109
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Car: 89 IROC
Engine: l98 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 373s
Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
Dash components 6.5 Been looking into low profile kicks. Don't like the Q logic dumbo ears. Kicks are further away from your ears for better imaging. But windshield installs are close second for SQ. I'm in the process of a mock up sub box, single 12 on a diagonal side mount. That way crap on top doesn't whack the speaker and very hard to be seen from the outside. Anyone who's never heard component speakers...go listen to them . Only problem is the cost. It's worth the weeks of brown baggin it, trust me.
#111
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Car: 89 IROC
Engine: l98 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 373s
Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
Just installed my 6.5s. 2 inch depth, that is eeking it in with minor cut above the console.
You could go big, but then you have to mod the ducts and cut down the gauge where you couldn't use two gauge lights. But if you want the best, you got some work ahead of you.
You could go big, but then you have to mod the ducts and cut down the gauge where you couldn't use two gauge lights. But if you want the best, you got some work ahead of you.
#112
Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
Ok this is going to be long but worth the read.
I recently tore the car apart to redo the whole audio system and work on quieting interior rattles. For starters my previous system was:
Alpine CDM-7874 Cd player (6 year old deck)
Alpine SPS-2629P 4x6 plate speakers in the dash (6 year old model)
Alpine SPS-6939S 6x9 coaxial speakers in the sail panels (6 year old model)
Pioneer 450W IMPP 12" subwoofer in well area in a really crappy box (6 year old model)
Pioneer 100w bridged 2 channel amp in rear storage area (6 year old model)
16 gauge speaker wire
broken generic power antenna
Overall this setup sounded crappy and would not get very loud before rattles and distortion. It could not overwhelm exhaust and wind noise with windows down, not even close. I suspect much of my issues were partially due to interior rattles caused by the speakers, not the speakers fault. Although I always knew the tiny front speakers were a problem.
New setup:
JVC KD-HDR1 Cd player/HD Radio/IPOD (about 3 year old model), had this laying around from my old civic, free.
Infinity 6020cs 6.5" component speakers mounted in dash and A-pillar, $110
Infinity 6020cs 6.5" component speakers mounted in sail panel, $110
Alpine F300 4x75W RMS at 2ohm amp for 4 main speakers, $140
Alpine M500 1x500W RMS at 2ohm amp for subwoofer, $140
Image Dynamics IDQ V2 12" subwoofer, $150
new custom sub box, $50
bass **** mounted in center console, $5
Ipod cable mounted in center console, came with JVC head unit
Factory power antenna, $120
HUmount, $90
125sq ft Raammat (Dynamat), $240
8yd Ensolite foam, $90
Cables, wire, supplies, ect, ~$100
4ga power wire to distribution block, 8ga to each amp
16ga speaker wire
10ga sub wire
This system rocks. Going the extra mile really paid off (dynamat). Engine, exhaust, and wind are no match for this system. And it is very clear. Also, I have not noticed any negative effects on the charging system. It is completely stock by the way.
The sub amp is way more power than I need; I listen to Rock mostly. 500W is plenty for Rap as well. I run the sub amp at well less than 1/2 of available gain. But better to have more power than not enough. Right now I am crossing the sub over at 75hz, and I think its about right.
75W per main speaker is about right. I run the gain at about 3/4 on the main amp (would prefer not to run any higher than that) and the head unit at about 3/4 volume at the loudest. I might be a little happier with 100W per channel but I'm not complaining. I am crossing the front speakers over at about 85 hz, had a very small issue with them at 75hz. The rears are at 75hz. One observation, the rear sail panel covers really kill high frequency sound. I can hardly hear any highs from the rears. I need to run some rear bias on the amp. I may try to rebuild the covers in the future with better audio cloth.
Virtually the entire car is covered in one layer of Raamat and Ensolite foam. I did not do behind the dash or the roof. The doors have two layers. While I had the interior apart I fixed a few other issues with the car. I cleaned up some funny audio wiring from the previous owner (the car was a radio delete car). I replaced the heater core. I replaced the drivers side door handle (broken spring). Did the felt pad mod on the air vents (prevents them from flapping all around). I modified the door jam vents so they don't rattle. Modified components in door so they don't rattle (explained later). Had sub frame connectors installed while the carpet was out of the car.
And now, how it was all done:
I recently tore the car apart to redo the whole audio system and work on quieting interior rattles. For starters my previous system was:
Alpine CDM-7874 Cd player (6 year old deck)
Alpine SPS-2629P 4x6 plate speakers in the dash (6 year old model)
Alpine SPS-6939S 6x9 coaxial speakers in the sail panels (6 year old model)
Pioneer 450W IMPP 12" subwoofer in well area in a really crappy box (6 year old model)
Pioneer 100w bridged 2 channel amp in rear storage area (6 year old model)
16 gauge speaker wire
broken generic power antenna
Overall this setup sounded crappy and would not get very loud before rattles and distortion. It could not overwhelm exhaust and wind noise with windows down, not even close. I suspect much of my issues were partially due to interior rattles caused by the speakers, not the speakers fault. Although I always knew the tiny front speakers were a problem.
New setup:
JVC KD-HDR1 Cd player/HD Radio/IPOD (about 3 year old model), had this laying around from my old civic, free.
Infinity 6020cs 6.5" component speakers mounted in dash and A-pillar, $110
Infinity 6020cs 6.5" component speakers mounted in sail panel, $110
Alpine F300 4x75W RMS at 2ohm amp for 4 main speakers, $140
Alpine M500 1x500W RMS at 2ohm amp for subwoofer, $140
Image Dynamics IDQ V2 12" subwoofer, $150
new custom sub box, $50
bass **** mounted in center console, $5
Ipod cable mounted in center console, came with JVC head unit
Factory power antenna, $120
HUmount, $90
125sq ft Raammat (Dynamat), $240
8yd Ensolite foam, $90
Cables, wire, supplies, ect, ~$100
4ga power wire to distribution block, 8ga to each amp
16ga speaker wire
10ga sub wire
This system rocks. Going the extra mile really paid off (dynamat). Engine, exhaust, and wind are no match for this system. And it is very clear. Also, I have not noticed any negative effects on the charging system. It is completely stock by the way.
The sub amp is way more power than I need; I listen to Rock mostly. 500W is plenty for Rap as well. I run the sub amp at well less than 1/2 of available gain. But better to have more power than not enough. Right now I am crossing the sub over at 75hz, and I think its about right.
75W per main speaker is about right. I run the gain at about 3/4 on the main amp (would prefer not to run any higher than that) and the head unit at about 3/4 volume at the loudest. I might be a little happier with 100W per channel but I'm not complaining. I am crossing the front speakers over at about 85 hz, had a very small issue with them at 75hz. The rears are at 75hz. One observation, the rear sail panel covers really kill high frequency sound. I can hardly hear any highs from the rears. I need to run some rear bias on the amp. I may try to rebuild the covers in the future with better audio cloth.
Virtually the entire car is covered in one layer of Raamat and Ensolite foam. I did not do behind the dash or the roof. The doors have two layers. While I had the interior apart I fixed a few other issues with the car. I cleaned up some funny audio wiring from the previous owner (the car was a radio delete car). I replaced the heater core. I replaced the drivers side door handle (broken spring). Did the felt pad mod on the air vents (prevents them from flapping all around). I modified the door jam vents so they don't rattle. Modified components in door so they don't rattle (explained later). Had sub frame connectors installed while the carpet was out of the car.
And now, how it was all done:
#113
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Car: 89 IROC
Engine: l98 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 373s
Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
Dash is the worst for staging, doors ok, kicks best. If you can get a delay in your system, you can mitigate the offset of dash speakers decently for the driver position. I'll be getting an eq with delay in the next couple months to see the actual results of a decent tune in these cars.
#114
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Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
If staging is a concern, the absolute best is to fabricate custom kicks with a 2 way mount and put quality speakers in it. The location is far enough forward that it's in front of the windshield and that will also help with imaging. No aftermarket company currently make a proper kick, so 3d printing one out of abs or making one in fibreglass is really the only option these days.
If you're opposed to kicks, the door is better than the dash, but requires an equal amount of fabrication and also bracing/deadening to prevent vibration. Tweeters can be a mixed bag for mounting in the door as well, but placement is straight forward usually.
If neither of these appeals to you, the dash can still be used. You'll need to use a DSP to get an appropriate time delay to correct the bad speaker placement, but it can be workable if you don't mind overly bright tweeters close to the listener. Your call at the end of the day, since each requires differing amounts of modification to your car.
#115
Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
like fokeyman said, the sound quality and staging are pretty harsh in the dash. It was a great functional location at the time, but i don't think anyone was thinking of quality stereo installs when the car was designed.
If staging is a concern, the absolute best is to fabricate custom kicks with a 2 way mount and put quality speakers in it. The location is far enough forward that it's in front of the windshield and that will also help with imaging. No aftermarket company currently make a proper kick, so 3d printing one out of abs or making one in fibreglass is really the only option these days.
If you're opposed to kicks, the door is better than the dash, but requires an equal amount of fabrication and also bracing/deadening to prevent vibration. Tweeters can be a mixed bag for mounting in the door as well, but placement is straight forward usually.
If neither of these appeals to you, the dash can still be used. You'll need to use a DSP to get an appropriate time delay to correct the bad speaker placement, but it can be workable if you don't mind overly bright tweeters close to the listener. Your call at the end of the day, since each requires differing amounts of modification to your car.
If staging is a concern, the absolute best is to fabricate custom kicks with a 2 way mount and put quality speakers in it. The location is far enough forward that it's in front of the windshield and that will also help with imaging. No aftermarket company currently make a proper kick, so 3d printing one out of abs or making one in fibreglass is really the only option these days.
If you're opposed to kicks, the door is better than the dash, but requires an equal amount of fabrication and also bracing/deadening to prevent vibration. Tweeters can be a mixed bag for mounting in the door as well, but placement is straight forward usually.
If neither of these appeals to you, the dash can still be used. You'll need to use a DSP to get an appropriate time delay to correct the bad speaker placement, but it can be workable if you don't mind overly bright tweeters close to the listener. Your call at the end of the day, since each requires differing amounts of modification to your car.
#116
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Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI / ZZ4 cam
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Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
Nothing wrong with running mids in the door and tweets in dash pods. You'll achieve very good staging.
#117
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Re: Complete audio build up and results, with pics
Thank you so much for being patient with all our repetitive questions! I am in the process of restoring a 92z hardtop for my sons soon to be 1st car. Did you notice a rub from the excursion of the front speakers and did you look at the 5 or 6 inch first? Thank you again.
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