Front speakers?
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Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Front speakers?
Time to ditch the factory 4x6's, what's the way to go for front speakers? Not much of an audio guy here but they will be hooked to an appropriate amplifier. Looking for a clean sound with decent highs and something that's not going to blow out on me.
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Car: 1984 Firebird Trans Am
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Posi
I got the Infinity 4"x6" 2-way plate speakers. They are rated 45W RMS, IIRC. They sound great, just dont feed them any bass frequencies.
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
about fifteen people will jump in here and tell you to totally ditch the dash speakers, and go with kickpanel enclosures...
they are right...
but I did have the Infinity Kappa 4x6 plates, and I was happy... until I knew what I was missing.... I say, save your money and get the kicks...
hell, the FACTORY monsoon soundsystem in my WS6 (kickpanel components) stompifies the kappa plates, on aftermarket amps, no less...
they are right...
but I did have the Infinity Kappa 4x6 plates, and I was happy... until I knew what I was missing.... I say, save your money and get the kicks...
hell, the FACTORY monsoon soundsystem in my WS6 (kickpanel components) stompifies the kappa plates, on aftermarket amps, no less...
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Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
ok, so what components to put in the kick panels? Anyone make an enclosure that doesn't take up a lot of space? Not a lot of room down there withthe clutch pedal.
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Last I heard, Jim85Iroc was making some... maybe Rez plus you can always find a set of Q-Logics
you're probably looking at 5 1/4" woofers
you're probably looking at 5 1/4" woofers
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Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
I've got long legs and a 5 speed, how much room is left in the foot well with kick panel speakers?
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 bored .30 over
Axle/Gears: Posi 342
You don't need kick panel speakers. I have my system set up as a 3-way. My front speakers are my highs, my pillar speakers are my mids and the subs are my lows. My front speakers are made by...dang, I forget, they arent like a known brand but they push 400 watts max. Yes they are 4x6 speakers too, I have a kenwood 800 watt 2-channel amp hooked up to them and they are amazingly loud, if i were to equalize them high ur drums would be gone. You would be suprized on what you can get. Look around before you go and try to make sumthing else work.
#9
Q-Forms make them for our cars, they are alright. I had the 1st gen ones and they didn't quite look right in spots, but I heard the 2gen's are better
You can get some custom ones made at a stereo shop, or if you want to give fiberglass a try, you can try building them youself.
You can get some custom ones made at a stereo shop, or if you want to give fiberglass a try, you can try building them youself.
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
I was kinda hoping some other senior members would chime in... oh well..
first off, yeah you will lose legroom... you have to make a choice, better sound, or comfort? our cars aren't comfortable anyways, so I say, go for the sound...
and about that "three-way" setup, XxGeinNothingxX... really, you can run into problems with that... if you truly filtered it so the fronts are ONLY highs, and the pillars are ONLY mids, and the rears are the subs...
you want as much of your overall sound to come from the same general area. For example, you really don't want your tweeter more than a few inches from your component woofer, it causes problems... It ruins the 'fullness' of the sound, and can cause imaging qualms too...
first off, yeah you will lose legroom... you have to make a choice, better sound, or comfort? our cars aren't comfortable anyways, so I say, go for the sound...
and about that "three-way" setup, XxGeinNothingxX... really, you can run into problems with that... if you truly filtered it so the fronts are ONLY highs, and the pillars are ONLY mids, and the rears are the subs...
you want as much of your overall sound to come from the same general area. For example, you really don't want your tweeter more than a few inches from your component woofer, it causes problems... It ruins the 'fullness' of the sound, and can cause imaging qualms too...
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 bored .30 over
Axle/Gears: Posi 342
I was kinda hoping some other senior members would chime in... oh well..
first off, yeah you will lose legroom... you have to make a choice, better sound, or comfort? our cars aren't comfortable anyways, so I say, go for the sound...
and about that "three-way" setup, XxGeinNothingxX... really, you can run into problems with that... if you truly filtered it so the fronts are ONLY highs, and the pillars are ONLY mids, and the rears are the subs...
you want as much of your overall sound to come from the same general area. For example, you really don't want your tweeter more than a few inches from your component woofer, it causes problems... It ruins the 'fullness' of the sound, and can cause imaging qualms too...
first off, yeah you will lose legroom... you have to make a choice, better sound, or comfort? our cars aren't comfortable anyways, so I say, go for the sound...
and about that "three-way" setup, XxGeinNothingxX... really, you can run into problems with that... if you truly filtered it so the fronts are ONLY highs, and the pillars are ONLY mids, and the rears are the subs...
you want as much of your overall sound to come from the same general area. For example, you really don't want your tweeter more than a few inches from your component woofer, it causes problems... It ruins the 'fullness' of the sound, and can cause imaging qualms too...
Well actually, the headunit is made to do this. Not every head unit is capable of what this does. You also have crossovers within the unit to give each speaker the range tieing into the next and then ontop of that it gives you a measurement option, you dial in how far away you are from each channel to where ever the center listeing area is, each speaker then knows exactly when to hit so that everything is played at the right time. I have done a lot to make it sound like it does, and to me, it sounds perfect.
I have a unit with I-personalize so you can also go online to Alpine's site and enter all of this infermation and then download it onto a disc and just pop it into ur unit in which downloads and ur set.
#13
I agree with XxGeinNothingxX. Back in the late 80's early 90's Richard Clark had a Grand national that had 6 speakers. Two 15" subwoofers, two 12" midbass drivers and two horns. The horns were under the dash. The 12 inchers were in the rear side panels and of course the subs used the trunk. Everything was time aligned. He won like 4 national championships. It had an ungodly amount of power especially for those days before class D, G and H amps were around or at the very least common. I think it was made by speakerworks out in California. If you have the processor or your head unit will do it, then you can have your midbass behind you.
On a side note, remember that using a 3/4 or 1" tweeter in the dash and the midwoofer in the rear side pillar will be extremely difficult to align timewise. When doing this you really need to use a compression horn from Image Dynamics or Crystal or USD. Not sure if crystal is still around. You can cross some of them over incredibly low as long as the crossover circuit is steep enough. We are talking at least 24 db/oct or steeper. Well good luck!
On a side note, remember that using a 3/4 or 1" tweeter in the dash and the midwoofer in the rear side pillar will be extremely difficult to align timewise. When doing this you really need to use a compression horn from Image Dynamics or Crystal or USD. Not sure if crystal is still around. You can cross some of them over incredibly low as long as the crossover circuit is steep enough. We are talking at least 24 db/oct or steeper. Well good luck!
#14
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 bored .30 over
Axle/Gears: Posi 342
I agree with XxGeinNothingxX. Back in the late 80's early 90's Richard Clark had a Grand national that had 6 speakers. Two 15" subwoofers, two 12" midbass drivers and two horns. The horns were under the dash. The 12 inchers were in the rear side panels and of course the subs used the trunk. Everything was time aligned. He won like 4 national championships. It had an ungodly amount of power especially for those days before class D, G and H amps were around or at the very least common. I think it was made by speakerworks out in California. If you have the processor or your head unit will do it, then you can have your midbass behind you.
On a side note, remember that using a 3/4 or 1" tweeter in the dash and the midwoofer in the rear side pillar will be extremely difficult to align timewise. When doing this you really need to use a compression horn from Image Dynamics or Crystal or USD. Not sure if crystal is still around. You can cross some of them over incredibly low as long as the crossover circuit is steep enough. We are talking at least 24 db/oct or steeper. Well good luck!
On a side note, remember that using a 3/4 or 1" tweeter in the dash and the midwoofer in the rear side pillar will be extremely difficult to align timewise. When doing this you really need to use a compression horn from Image Dynamics or Crystal or USD. Not sure if crystal is still around. You can cross some of them over incredibly low as long as the crossover circuit is steep enough. We are talking at least 24 db/oct or steeper. Well good luck!
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