Car Audio Car audio related questions and helpful hints for building the best sound system for your car or getting the most out of what you have.

"New" age of 6X9's

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-10-2006, 07:36 PM
  #1  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
 
KEVIN G.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 692
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Car: 1984 TRANS AM AERO (PAINT SO DEEP
Engine: 305 CARBED
Transmission: 700 R-4/Vette Servo mod
"New" age of 6X9's

Have been shopping for a new set of 6x9's for the sail panels... Bought a new set of Bostons off ebay, and got burned, but that is another story. (No more ebay for me...only new!!) So I'm lookin' and lookin' and most of what I see are stuff with these teeny tiny little magnets. Now I'm no stranger to electronics, and I can move along with the times...but for an old fart like me, Big magnets mean big bass. Am I off base here? Is it just another facet of the ever evolving, higher quality in a small package? I liked the sound of the Bostons, and was quite impressed, for a minute. But I don't like the price of them new.


Anyone have any suggestions for 6x9 midbass to a moderate system?

Alpine HU 9805 w/mp3
Upgraded 4x6 in stock locale
...... 6x9's (insert model here)
150w two channel amp
2 10's in rear well custom box

Price point @ a hundred bux

Thanks guys.
Old 08-10-2006, 08:13 PM
  #2  
Junior Member
 
bizmark13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I bought a couple of 6x9s for my Camaro a little over a month ago from DBL. They are Pyle which some people say is crap. They each have a 120 oz magnet and barely fit in the sail panels. I paid 29 for a pair. They sound good in the low volume ranges but because they are 250 watts rms and im only powering them with my deck I cant crank em up. but you said you wanted big magnets i think 120 for a couple of mids is up there.

and heres a link to them PLG69.8 - 6'' x 9'' 500 Watt Eight-Way Speakers Pyleaudio.com ::: Your source for Car Audio, Mobile Video, Neon Lighting

Last edited by bizmark13; 08-10-2006 at 08:17 PM.
Old 08-10-2006, 08:17 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
xgtharo86x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Oviedo,Florida
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Car: 86' Trans am
Engine: 85 LG4-non cc carb(building a 350)
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4,vette servo,2200stall
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
go to mycarjams.com cheap as hell and big magnets and wattage i gotta pair of 400watt 6x9s for like 35 bucks! also my 1400watt subs my 2400watt amp and 2.5 fared cap for $600 4 everything including wires its a good site
Old 08-10-2006, 08:48 PM
  #4  
Member
 
eschevyrda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: new york
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Car: 89camaro rs
Engine: 350tbi (needs carb!)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 32x in process
ok i went to the web site and i checked out thier prices and audio products.well they have very good prices but some of thier namebrands are very well not heard of do some of this stuff in there sound good or are they generic merchendise that sound like crap
Old 08-10-2006, 08:52 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
xgtharo86x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Oviedo,Florida
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Car: 86' Trans am
Engine: 85 LG4-non cc carb(building a 350)
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4,vette servo,2200stall
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
all my stuff sounds amazing u can hear it 3 blocks away lol
Old 08-10-2006, 09:14 PM
  #6  
Member
 
eschevyrda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: new york
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Car: 89camaro rs
Engine: 350tbi (needs carb!)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 32x in process
really well im thinkin about gettin a in dash dvd player from them the name brand is pyle its like $400 it looks* pretty good but **** compared to $1000 from best but or circuit city its worth it.
Old 08-11-2006, 04:58 AM
  #7  
Junior Member

 
cfosceola's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
get the infiniti 6x9s from best buy, very good mid bass and very clear at high volume. I run all infiniti and the sound is crystal clear.
Old 08-11-2006, 05:16 AM
  #8  
Member
 
Stealthy-One's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Washington DC metro
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 700r4 auto
Axle/Gears: huh?? guessing stock.
Have you thought about maybe a decent pait of 6.5's or even 7 inch woofers? Easy to make a plate to cover the 6 X 9 opening and cut a hole to fit your desired woofer. I always have found a better sound adn better quality options from normal round speakers.

Tang Band 6.5 Sub... Parts Express:TANG BAND W6-1139SG 6-1/2" SUBWOOFER

Tang Band 6.5 Midbass... Parts Express:TANG BAND W6-789S 6-1/2" WOOFER

just a couple options. I have used a few of the Tang Band products in the past with great results.
Old 08-11-2006, 06:47 AM
  #9  
Supreme Member
TGO - 10 Year Member
iTrader: (9)
 
battmann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 1,166
Received 447 Likes on 287 Posts
Car: 1984 TA (1 stock / 1 custom)
Engine: LG4 / turbo LQ4
Transmission: 700R4 / 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Stock / 4:11 Moser 9"
i put some 8" audiobahn subs in the sail panel locations and they sound sweet. all you have to do is modify the OE speaker bracket a little. you just have to make the stock oval hole more round. pretty easy project. now i have subs, but the interior of the car still looks stock.
Old 08-11-2006, 07:51 AM
  #10  
Member
 
thaforce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: '91 Z-28 Hardtop
Engine: 5.7L TPI L98
Transmission: 700R4
Just go with a brand you trust.

The size of the magnets on todays 6x9's generally are smaller. In the past most of the speakers used a Ferrite core magnet. Now days mostly what is used is a Neodymium, Strontium or Barium magnet, which has a higher magnetic field strength than the Ferrite does, hence its smaller size.

My brand preferences would be JL Audio, MB Quart and of course Boston Acoustic.

Hope this was some help. Take Care.
Old 08-11-2006, 08:35 AM
  #11  
TGO Supporter

iTrader: (2)
 
Jim85IROC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Readsboro, VT
Posts: 13,579
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
THe size of the magnet is of little use when trying to figure out ANYTHING about a speaker.

Generally a 6x9 speaker is going to be designed to have a high Qts, which is a parameter that helps determine how large of an enclosure the driver needs and how deep the bass will be. Essentially, the Qts is a specification that tells you how much CONTROL the motor has over the cone. To get that deeper bass, you need a driver with less control over the cone, which would be indicated by a higher Qts. Since you want less control over the cone, you need a weaker motor, which is accomplished in a number of ways, but generally means you don't need a big magnet.

Most car audio speakers have way more magnet than they need, because people equate big magnets with quality. Dan Wiggins at Adire has even admitted that his Brahma sub could work just as well with 1 magnet instead of the triple-stacked monster on the driver. It's there for looks 90% of the time.

Anyway, getting back to 6x9s, none of them are going to give you a lot of bass, so I wouldn't waste your time and money trying to get big bass out of any of them. Listen to them, and buy the ones that have the cleanest, most pleasant sound. If you want bass, install a sub.

If you're serious about learning a little bit about speakers and want information on how to properly audition a set, read this tech article on iroczone.com:
How to Buy Speakers
Old 08-11-2006, 09:37 PM
  #12  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
 
KEVIN G.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 692
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Car: 1984 TRANS AM AERO (PAINT SO DEEP
Engine: 305 CARBED
Transmission: 700 R-4/Vette Servo mod
Wow, thanks for all the great responses and help guys...
I kinda figured that was the case with the magnets... I think I read it on one of my other forums for home audio.
Yes I have thought about the Tangband 6.5's and 8's, ( but I think they are better suited for another project I have in mind.) But, how well would the midbass blend with my subs... Y'know, I would only have my 4x6's up front for highs... wouldn't that be kinda harsh and shrill? And I don't think I want to mess with kicks, (Though I hear such good reviews.)

Jim, I did read your piece on buying speakers some time ago, very informative.
MB's, Focals, Bostons, All are on my list. But if I spend too much cash, I'll be on another kind of list for my wife...
I have na old 4 ch amp that I am going to integrate when I get the new 6x9's.
Old 08-15-2006, 09:37 PM
  #13  
Junior Member
 
don71's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: IN
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: 1992 rs
Engine: stock 305 tbi
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 bolt
i have memphis 4x6 and 6x9 and a 8 in bass cannon with a 300 watt amp in the well it sounds good on any type of music
Old 08-29-2006, 11:05 PM
  #14  
Junior Member
 
bandit908's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: 1983 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 305 V8
Transmission: automatic
i have an '83 firebird and i have alpine type R 6x9's, pioneer 4x6's, and 2 rockford punch 1 subs with a 400W alpine amplifier. they sound amazing- especially the type R 6x9's. i was suprised how much bass the 6x9's pushed out. alpine has really outdone themselves with the type R. its a 2-way 6x9 and it doesnt distort with the volume cranked all the way. i got them @ best buy for $180 for the pair. the 4x6's were $90/ pair, the subs were $80 for both @ crutchfield and the amp was $300 if i remember correctly. it's overall a decent system and it's perfect for what i want it to do. i would DEFINATELY reccommend the alpine type R 6x9's or and size type R cuz they're all the same awesome quality.
Old 08-30-2006, 04:43 AM
  #15  
Supreme Member

iTrader: (2)
 
83 Crossfire TA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: DC Metro Area
Posts: 7,980
Received 85 Likes on 72 Posts
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
Originally Posted by Jim85IROC
THe size of the magnet is of little use when trying to figure out ANYTHING about a speaker.

Generally a 6x9 speaker is going to be designed to have a high Qts, which is a parameter that helps determine how large of an enclosure the driver needs and how deep the bass will be. Essentially, the Qts is a specification that tells you how much CONTROL the motor has over the cone. To get that deeper bass, you need a driver with less control over the cone, which would be indicated by a higher Qts. Since you want less control over the cone, you need a weaker motor, which is accomplished in a number of ways, but generally means you don't need a big magnet.

Most car audio speakers have way more magnet than they need, because people equate big magnets with quality. Dan Wiggins at Adire has even admitted that his Brahma sub could work just as well with 1 magnet instead of the triple-stacked monster on the driver. It's there for looks 90% of the time.
Although you make a valid point (that magnet weigh rarely determines performance), technically your description is incorrect.

Qts stands for Q (a measurement of, well, control is not a good description, it’s almost stiffness or dampening like a comparison between the shocks and the springs on a car, it’s really a calculated value to try to describe how a speaker will act, more on that later). This is an overall Q value that is not measured, it’s calculated from Qms (mechanical Q of the speakers suspension assembly) and Qes (essentially the electrical Q of the speaker’s motor, which could be calculated from the strength of the magnet if you knew it, so technically the strength of the magnet does matter, and to get a higher Q value you want a weaker magnet. More on the higher Q value later).

The “s” after Qts, Qms and Qes stands for “measured at the resonant frequency,” which Engineers abbreviate as Fs. So essentially (and here I will use control), each of these are measurements of how much the speaker is likely to loose control of the mechanical assembly (Qms), the electrical assembly (Qes) or everything (Qts) at it’s resonant frequency, the frequency that it tends to vibrate sympathetically/the most…

So without throwing more engineering gobly gook at you, what does this mean?

Well, I have to give you one more Q value to make sense of this: Qb, which is the Q of the speaker in whatever enclosure it’s mounted in (Q “box”). A Qb of around .7 gives you nice, tight bass, and as you approach 1 it gets harder hitting but sloppier. Most subs and speaker assemblies are in that range. Below .7 the sound weak and tinny, above 1 they sound muddy and sloppy, but the counterintuitive part, the lower the Q the lower (frequency) the speaker’s useful extension will be (the lower frequency it can actually play) and the higher, vice versa (so really, those hard hitting, sloppy subs that are quite popular will not play lows as well as if they were placed in a tighter box, but give more output for the ones that they do manage to play)

Now if you run across a speaker with a low Qts, say below about .4 that means “this thing doesn’t want to vibrate much on it’s own” and you can “enhance” it by building a bass reflex (ported) enclosure which will encourage it to do so. Something in the middle is kind of half way there and you still need to help it some, but not as much… you use a sealed box (and hope for a very compliant suspension if you’re going to move a lot of air), and finally, something with a high Qts, something already in that .7-1 range is considered “free air” because it doesn’t need any help from an enclosure to sound right, you just mount it in a baffle to keep the lower frequencies from rolling over the edge from the front to the back of the cone and canceling each other.

Now this is where the small magnet, higher Qes and higher Qts comes in, for most car speaker applications you’re mounting the thing in a baffle and that’s it. You actually want a small, or to put it more accurately, relatively weak magnet or you otherwise need to engineer the speaker to be somewhat sloppy to sound right which will distort the output…

Now on a separate note, those 2 Tang band drivers… Although very good speakers in the right application, and although you can calculate everything you want about a speaker system and still not have any concept of a just certain magic that happens with some combinations, my thoughts seeing them is have you actually tried them to recommend them in that application? I see a few problems with them. First, they have a low Qts, below or at .4 for both of them, that would normally indicate a speaker that really needs a bass reflex enclosure to work well, not a free air baffle like what we’re talking about. Secondly, one has a very deep magnet structure, the other has a very large cap on the magnet (possibly a shield for AV use?), nither of which are going to fit easily in the space (again, if you’ve tried and they fit… I could be wrong, since they are round and you could mount them so the magnet sits lower then on a 6x9 where they have more room).

Last edited by 83 Crossfire TA; 08-30-2006 at 04:47 AM.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
F-body-fan
History / Originality
40
03-01-2016 07:21 AM
starliner
Camaros for Sale
1
02-09-2016 08:18 PM
Nighthawkf-117
Tech / General Engine
1
09-24-2015 02:47 PM
jerflash
Interior Parts for Sale
3
09-23-2015 09:21 AM
aharvel50
Camaros for Sale
2
09-21-2015 07:31 PM



Quick Reply: "New" age of 6X9's



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:55 AM.