Power cap, on a kicker zr120, and 10" kicker comp sub
#1
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Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 305 carb moded
Power cap, on a kicker zr120, and 10" kicker comp sub
I just got a kicker comp sub, and a kicker zr120 amp, that pulls alot of power from the bat, I can watch it pull the amp meter down to where my head unit starts acting crazy from not enough power,
a friend said get a power cap, I ended up getting a 1.25 farad power cap, which he said was overkill for what i was running
and I am thinking about an optima battery, any suggestions, tech knowledge, or expeirence,
mainly wanting to know if I am on the right track
a friend said get a power cap, I ended up getting a 1.25 farad power cap, which he said was overkill for what i was running
and I am thinking about an optima battery, any suggestions, tech knowledge, or expeirence,
mainly wanting to know if I am on the right track
#2
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Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
if your getting excessive drain then that means a few things could be wrong.
alternator not strong enough, or wiring not good enough, or wiring is corroded.
in this situation a cap isn't going to do you much good. the only place a cap will help is with very high sudden draws of current. this way it keeps the voltage level during those moments when the bass really hits. but that cap is still charged by the alt going through all that wiring. check that first.
alternator not strong enough, or wiring not good enough, or wiring is corroded.
in this situation a cap isn't going to do you much good. the only place a cap will help is with very high sudden draws of current. this way it keeps the voltage level during those moments when the bass really hits. but that cap is still charged by the alt going through all that wiring. check that first.
#3
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Car: 89 RS
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 700r4 auto
Axle/Gears: huh?? guessing stock.
search for the big three. I did that, adn got a nw alt. I wont use a cap as I dont see them helping in a conservative system. now if you have multiple amps, are running 20 15" subs.... yes, but for one sub, I dont see it being needed.
#4
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Car: 89 IROC Z28
Engine: 357 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
The Cap will help with sudden and brief drops in power IE: AC compressor turns on, but won't help for long periods of low voltage.
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Car: 89 RS
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 700r4 auto
Axle/Gears: huh?? guessing stock.
yes, but all it is doing with his limited system (no offense meant) is simply hiding a more serious possible problem. I have no cap adn my sub amp is putting out right about 380W RMS. I run my AC almost all the time, have a cell phone charging, my nav system running, and occaisoionally (how the hell do you spell that!!) a laptop. I hae a stock alternator and a new battery. I did the "Big Three", ran over sized wire to power everything and have no strobe light effects in my lights, Voltage dosent drop under 12V with the car running. Heck it normally is at 12.5+.
im not trying to be a **** here, but with a smallish sysstem a cap really isnt needed. look at the rest of the charging system/wiring first. you never know maybe something is on the way out.
im not trying to be a **** here, but with a smallish sysstem a cap really isnt needed. look at the rest of the charging system/wiring first. you never know maybe something is on the way out.
#6
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If that amp is causing voltage problems, you've got to address your charging system. That amp is too small to cause any sort of noticable voltage drop. Like mentioned, I'd upgrade the big 3, and if that doesn't improve things drastically, you may need to get a new alternator. That small amp should already have enough capacitance built-in, so adding an external cap isn't likely to fix your problems.
But, for being such a tiny amp, it is a definate powerhouse. I've always been a big fan of the Kicker ZR amps.
But, for being such a tiny amp, it is a definate powerhouse. I've always been a big fan of the Kicker ZR amps.
#7
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Car: 86' Trans am
Engine: 85 LG4-non cc carb(building a 350)
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4,vette servo,2200stall
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
ya i got a 5 farad cap for my 2400watts amp and its goes to 8 on the volt meter and if i hit the brakes or put the blinkers on i almost stall out i got to get a new altinator now
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#9
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Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
ESR?
not too good with the names or anything but I'm assuming the is the equiv of resistance to a DC path the cap makes? or anotherwords hwo fast teh cap charges/discharges?
not too good with the names or anything but I'm assuming the is the equiv of resistance to a DC path the cap makes? or anotherwords hwo fast teh cap charges/discharges?
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Car: 86' Trans am
Engine: 85 LG4-non cc carb(building a 350)
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4,vette servo,2200stall
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
ya i no but it does it when the radios on the blinker the headlights and inm hiting the brakes so i think in need a new altinator or the wireing is messed up but i messed up on the 5 farad i wrote the 2.5 but the computer frose so it didnt right it in is that still bad if its a 2.5 farad
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Car: 83 bird
Engine: 305/383
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
There's a rule of thumb to follow when thinking about getting a cap. Don't. They aren't going to fix any problems; least not correctly. Do what everyone else has said and do the big three. If you still have issues, get a better alternator.
#12
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Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 305 carb moded
ok I upgraded the battery so far, and bought all new wiring for the amp from the bat, and looking into a new altenator, I have not installed the power cap, because i do agree, that with what I am running, I shouldnt need it,
the new bat did help quite a bit, but at idle it does still drain it to where the head unit starts freaking out and drops volume when the bass hits,
the new bat did help quite a bit, but at idle it does still drain it to where the head unit starts freaking out and drops volume when the bass hits,
#13
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Car: '85 Z28
Engine: Need one. =(
Transmission: T-5
You may want to replace / check the +12v and perhaps the ground to the head unit, then. Can you put a voltmeter on the back of the headunit +12v and see if it drops too low when the bass hits? Is it running too low normally? Does it work when the car is not on and there isn't bass?
#14
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Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 305 carb moded
it works fine without the amp, without the engine started, now turn the amp on, and it will pull the head unit down, with the car started, at idle, its ok till I turn it up louder, and the bass is hitting hard, now going down the highway, 2500-3000 rpm's, now problem, (realization, I need a better alt,)
#15
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Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Did you upgrade the BIG 3 yet. If not do it. It's the ground from battery to frame, ground form engine to frame, and alt. to batt+.
#16
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Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 305 carb moded
thats in the works, and cleaning connectors, and checking the wiring, lol and a long list of other things, that have come to my attention since buying the car 2 months ago
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