Dustin Mustangs

iTrader: (1)

Well, my Kenwood head unit finally went flakey on me. I guess I really shouldn't be suprised considering how many people talk trash about Kenwood products. Searching on the topic has taught me that I am not the first to have this problem and likely not the last. From what I understand you just have to replace the ribbon cable that connects the faceplate to the rest of the unit and that it is likely something I can do myself. I have also found word of a guide(s) that gives you a kind of walk-through on the procedure required to replace this part but I can't seem to find one for the life of me.

Does someone happen to have a link to one of these guides on this repair? If not, maybe at least some hints from someone that has done it before??

I really don't want to jump into this blind, but if all else fails I guess I will.

Thanks in advance for any help...

NEEDAZ

One, MODEL #. (and for people reading this, ALWAYS include a model # in a post like this, and make it easy to see, not hidden in your sig where I'll miss it and sound like an ars).
Two, define "flakey".
Three, other then the ribbon cables, Kenwood makes a good quality HU (despite what people say).

Dustin Mustangs

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for chiming in AZ.

First off, it's an x879.

This is an intermittent problem and it seems to happen the most on cold mornings. I'll start the car, the mask will flip down, but not as far as it should, the display won't light up and it stops everything while still about half way open. The display portion also moves out some as the mask opens up normally, but it doesn't when this happens. At this point, the unit is more or less frozen and will only respond to the large source button. If I hold it down, most times it will fold most of the way up and then fold back down and go into it's normal start up routine (all the time until it starts holding down the src button). I've noticed that it is pickier about when it will and won't work depending on how far down I have the mask set to open (ie the panel angle adjustment). If I have it all the way down (how I like it) it won't even start correctly on warm days. I have been leaving it most of the way up lately which has been getting me by for the most part but I can tell it is getting pickier and I'd like to fix the problem before it quits all together.

And yes, I really do love all my Kenwood equipment, but geesh; this thing is just over a year old...

Al Hasse

I have a similar Kenwood deck (KRC953) sitting on the shelf with that same problem. Ribbon cable supplies power to the faceplate display and all control buttons. Really sucks when you can't turn the volume up or down, or even turn the power on or off. Thought I might try to fix it one day, but there it still sits on the shelf about 3 years later. Replaced it with a Panasonic unit that I have been very happy with.

NEEDAZ

First off, it’s a KDC-X879, right? (Now I’m just being a d*)
Sounds like a ribbon cable to me. But understand that I’m NOT there to trouble shot the unit. I can only go on your diagnosis, if it’s wrong, don’t blame me! The switches can sometimes trick you if they’re ‘flaky’ into thinking that is a ribbon cable. You also need to know that it is VARY possible to do more damage to the unit if you make a mistake trying to fix it. I fix them every day and I still f’-up sometimes (naturally working on them all the time gives me a better opportunity to f’ it up). The difference is I know how to fix it when I do. I’ll try and give all the help I can, but remember, I’m not there. You’ll need to know how to solder, and right. The connector to the 3d mask is soldered to the ribbon cable and it’s possible to warp or lift the pads on the NEW ribbon cable if the iron is to hot or you stay on them to long. Don’t blame me if you get wrong. And there are other obstacles, but all overcomeable.
Well, you’ll need two ribbon cables for that HU. One ribbon cable from the main PCB the display PCB. Then one from the display PCB to the keyboard PCB. One is like $10-$15 and the other is like $20-$25 + shipping. You’ll have to get Kenwood parts phone number, can’t make it too easy for you (should be able to find it on there web sight).
Still interested in doing it your self? I’m not trying to keep you from doing it, for someone that is into home brew electronics it shouldn’t be to difficult. If you’ve never used a soldering iron, you should probably stay clear of this one.
Give me a week or so. I usually see one every other week or so and I’d like to have one in front of me so I can give you some of the helpful hint along the way. If you don’t hear anything in a week or two, send me a PM.
Don’t know about the KRC-953, don’t remember the model# and don’t have a service manual for that one.

And a note to any Kenwood owner with a “3D Mask” HU, NEVER NEVER EVER EVER lose the removable faceplate. It has a small EPORM that is “keyed” (programmed with a code) to each unit individually. And re-coding one is a royal PITA. I’ll charge you an A** load to do it if it comes to me! (And not every other shop can even do it.)

Dustin Mustangs

iTrader: (1)

Oh, I'm game to give it a try for sure. It doesn't sound like anything I haven't done before. Please do post up when you get one in front of you. I (and likely others) would really appreciate the effort!!

Also, I have "heard" you can get the ribbon cable(s) with connectors on the end for a soldier free swap. I'm going to call Kenwood tomorrow to order the parts one way or another so I'll ask them about that then.

NEEDAZ

Never heard of that, not in the service manual so can't help there. But for just the cables, the one from the main PCB to the display is (FPC1) part# J84-0153-05, and for the cable from the display to the keyboard is (FPC3) part# J84-0154-05. Give them a call and ask if you can get FPC3 with the connector, if so GIVE ME THE PART#. The connector (315) part# is E58-0968-05.

EDIT: I should add that the (FPC1), (FPC3), (315) are the schematic locations.

NEEDAZ

The Pics are to big. I'll try and E-Mail Them to you tonight. If you can re-size them, could you post them for others to see. I'll post this up now.

This is from a KDC-MP922 (Vary similar faceplate drive ***’y as your )
First take the screw out of the top, should be just one in the back center. Now check PIC1. There are a couple of things you should note in this Pic.
1. The two screws on ether side of the screw drivers (in front, bottom plate of the CD mech.), these, and only these, need to come out to take the CD mechanism out.
2. See the two white gears to the right of the CD mechanism. If you turn these with your thumb the faceplate ***’y will move in and out (also lowing the display).
3. On the display, at the tips of the screw drivers, it’s hard to see but there are two little clips here. Just remember them for now.
So go ahead and take the two screws out of the CD mechanism and just fold it back like in PIC2. If your ribbon cable isn’t long go ahead and unhook the cable and set the mech. to the side. Use the white gears to side the faceplate ***’y out. Unhook the ribbon cable to the display from the main PCB and note how the white side is up. Also note how the ribbon cable is run into the HU. It should be run through the slit over the opening (you’ll see what I mean if you look at it). You need to put that back the same way or the new cable will have too much tension on it and fail sooner.
Now take the cover off of the display. Look back at PIC1 and the tip of the screw drivers. These little clips hold the cover on and you’ll need to press them and lift up on the cover to get it off. You may need to finagle it bit but it should pop up.
On to the keyboard. It should be straight up at this point. If not look at PIC2 and see where the screw driver is pointing in this Pic. The black gear just poking out of the black cover is what you need to turn to raise and lower the keyboard. Use a small flat blade screw driver to gently turn this gear carefully. Never pry on the keyboard to get it to move. If you pop the cogged belt off one notch you’ll need to go in and align the keyboard drive ***’y. More of a PITA. With the keyboard all the way up take off the removable mask. NEVER MISSPLACE OR DAMAGE THIS. Remove the two gold screws on either side of the connector to the mask. There will also be 5 black screws. Remove these and note that the one in the lower left corner is different. Now lower the keyboard again by using that black gear. Go back to the display and remove both gold screws from the sides of the PCB. Back to the key board. Gently pull the keyboard up, more in the back, but don’t just yank it. You’ll want to see how the ribbon cable is latched into the holder plate. Also note that the black button in the lower left corner is not attached to anything. At this point you can remove the display PCB and keyboard PCB with both cables still attached. Note that on the display PCB the righting on both cables is facing up, away from the PCB. Also look at the righting on both cables, it tells you right where both cable go. They are also labeled with the part numbers. (FPC1 part# J84-0153-05, FPC3 part# J84-0154-05) The cable from the main PCB to the display PCB says MAIN for the main PCB and DISP on the other end of display PCB. The cable from the display PCB to the keyboard PCB says DISP at one end and SW at the other for the keyboard (SW is for switch PCB). Unsolder the connector from FPC3 and solder it to the new ribbon cable carefully. Don’t over heat it. Don’t get shorts.
Carefully plug the ribbon cables back in, in the right direction (display end to the display PCB) and with the right end up (Should it be in with the righting up or the plastic up). IF YOU GET THIS WRONGE THE UNIT WILL NOT WORK AND YOU COULD DAMAGE SOMETHING. Place the PCBs back in there respective positions. Note that the stiff plastic part of FPC3 need to slide under the display PCB, and cable FPC1 need to go through the slit in it’s holder plate and the slit in the HU. Replace both the gold screws in the display PCB and pop the cover back on. Pop the keyboard back in place but note that FPC3 need to be clipped into the holder like it was when you removed the keyboard and note that the black button needs to be in position. Use the black gear to lift the keyboard. Replace the two gold screws on the sides of the connector to the mask and the black screws to (remember that the one that is different goes back in the lower left corner). Put the CD mechanism back in and replace it’s screws. Put the top back on and tested the unit…

Dustin Mustangs

iTrader: (1)

You're the man AZ!!!

I just talked with Kenwood and I was wrong about them having a version of the cable with the connectors already on it, or at least the guy I talked to had never heard of it before. $28 something for both of them shipped, not bad...

I'd be more then happy to resize the pics and attach them to this post so go ahead and email them.

Thanks again AZ!!!

NEEDAZ

Crap, something went wrong when I put them on my jump drive, have tp try again thrusday...

Dustin Mustangs

iTrader: (1)

#1

Dustin Mustangs

iTrader: (1)

#2

Dustin Mustangs

iTrader: (1)

And here's something for you AZ, and any one else for that matter. This is a free picture re-sizer. Can do a picture at a time or a whole directory at once. No install ness, just save it somewhere convenient. VERY easy to use...

http://www.rw-designer.com/picture-resize

NEEDAZ

Cool...

cocrl2

i had to replace the belt on my unit and am unable to set the timing on it to close and open properly any help would be great thanks

NEEDAZ

MODEL#?
What happened to the belt? How was it acting before the belt change?

cocrl2

the belt broke and i finally figured the timing out unit works like brand new thanks